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1

Omega General Help / Re: eml on, code 0110? Help!

« on: 20 May 2011, 19:05:28 »

Thanks all, I have found the following so far -

http://www.vauxhallworldparts.com/partsearch/partdetail.php?partid=241&partlinkid=3314&vid=21&ecode=26&cont=true
It works out at about £110 delivered to my house, so not too bad, and a whole load of non-genuine which I shall not be buying.  I also have a trade club card so I will ask my local stealer, just for a laugh, to see what number they pick.

Thanks again.

Paul

2

Omega General Help / eml on, code 0110? Help!

« on: 18 May 2011, 19:11:38 »

I know the code is all about intake air temperature, but I have no idea where the intake air temperature sensor is.  Is this part of the MAF? and if so is it just a straight MAF change that is needed?

Car runs absolutely fine, 33MPG (on LPG) and goes like a stabbed rat, so it can't be over serious, or can it?

What do I need to do to fix it?

If it is just the MAF I wouldn't be surprised, the engine has had a lot of work done on it lately due to the cam  box gaskets failing, both coil packs (oil boiled - cracked plastics, and water ingress on the other)and the air-con condenser, and the lambda sensors, and coils springs on the front, so most of the top and front has been in bits lately and the MAF is original - eight years old, and presumably fragile-ish after this time.

All help welcomed.

Thanks in advance.

Paul

3

Omega General Help / Re: 16" wheels

« on: 18 May 2011, 19:15:18 »

Try this, it may not be complete, but it's not bad-

http://www.carlsalter.com/wheel_fitments.html

AFAIK the Zafira fitment is the same as well

Cheers

Paul

4

Omega General Help / Re: Which Tyres?

« on: 21 April 2011, 11:07:50 »

Yes, agree with all the above, thoroughly subjective. The answer to 'are your wheel bearings OK' in relation to the Falken FK452 and Pirelli P7 noise comment, yes absolutely, I've replaced them! and the front and rear springs.  The qualifier for the noise is that it happens towards the end of life of these tyres and I am sensitive to that sort of noise so it annoys me.  As for outright grip, I should say that the vast majority of my driving is done on motorways and on cruise control, but I merge from M40 to M42 without changing speed in the outside lane (larger radius corner) and also M42 to M6 again without changing speed (around 75) the tyres I rated as grippy do not protest to this, nor should they frankly, but some feel decidely nervy and the steering has a tendency to go light and feel as though the tyres are about to fold under you.  I also agree that the stiffer tyres (I'm using 99XL right now) do hold up better.  I also learned that the Mohawk (possible Chinese ditch finders) are actually Hankooks second brand and made by Goodyear, not that that is a benefit, but the carcass will probably be OK.  I also note that these tyres need less in the way of balance weights and roll very smoothly.

So I don't need track day type grip, I do need low noise and I do so many miles that I like to have good life expectancy.  A balance that I have found with what I have tried and with the Hankooks and Nexens, though the Hankooks are better IMO. The Falkens were so soft that I have to overinflate the front tyres to get any stability or grip, at stock pressures they were shocking. I also like to know the car is still under me in the wet esp. as the M6 in the rain between J6 and J9 is like a lake in places, the Nexens are good when new but hopeless when down to around 3mm, the Hankooks are good as well, the Pirellis frigtened me, and I couldn't get the Contis (SP2) to stop spinning at the rear off the line in the wet, not good.

Strangely I quite like the Yokohamas which seem better in the wet than the dry but a bit pricey. I also like Dunlop Sp01s but they don't last me much more than 12K.

There is a compromise for everyone, it just has to be found by the individual and be right for them. I'd love to use the outright grippiest / best in the wet / longest life / quitest  tyre, but I don't think it exists yet.

I also read the whatcar and which tyre tests and the last one I read rated a no-name Chinese ditch finder as the best tyre out there and ahead of the mainstream big brands.  Wierd!

5

Omega General Help / Re: Which Tyres?

« on: 12 April 2011, 15:48:14 »

I've tried - (in 225/55/16)

Falken FK452s, - noisy, soft, grippy, short life,
Pirelli P7s - noisy, rough, not grippy esp. wet, reasonable life, but tram line like you can't believe
Nexen CP641, fairly quiet, comfy, long life and surpisingly grippy if not outright as good as the Falkens, but the Nexen lasted twice as long!
Mohawk M112 - quiet, firm, grippy, don't know about life yet, only been on 2K, but no noticeable wear yet, and no tramlining
Hankook K105 Ventus Prime XL, quiet, grippy, no tramlining, firm and give better steering response, so far only 14K done but tyres still have 6mm on tehm so I am expecting them to last well.

Cheers

Paul

6

Omega General Help / Re: aftermarket wheels - info required

« on: 07 May 2011, 19:42:34 »

As far as I recall the wheel pattern for the Omega is 5 x 110 (PCD) and offset between 35 and 38mm.

The 5 x 100 bit just means that there are 5 bolt holes and if you drew the circle between the studs at their mid point that would be a 110mm circle.  The offset is how far the wheel rim centreline is offset from the face that meets the hub flange. So an offset of 35 mm means that there is a 35 mm difference between the centre of the wheel rim and the wheel hub mounting face and this will be inset, i.e. the whell sits further into the arch.

If the PCD is 112mm on the wheels you are looking at they won't fit quite properly.  Also you need to check the centre bore diameter as this is the bit that actually centres the wheel on the hub, the bolts just stop it falling off! The Omega is 65mm but I have seen it quoted as 65.1mm, heck what's 4 thou between friends!

Cheers

Paul

7

Omega General Help / Re: Rear track control arm part number / source

« on: 08 May 2011, 09:02:56 »

RobG,

many thanks for this.  I have placed the order.  Seems a good enough price to just not worry about it.

Thanks again.

Paul

8

Omega General Help / Rear track control arm part number / source

« on: 07 May 2011, 19:33:32 »

Hi,

does anyone know the correct description and part number for the rear track control arm for the Omega B FL by any chance, and perhaps the best place to get one?
I do have a Trade Club card so that may help if the part is in the club catalogue, but I don't have that yet, so don't know.
I'd appreciate any help on this as it's the last part I need to get the geometry set up properly again and the current arm is siezed solid. Fortunately the offside wheel alignment is OK, as this arm is also siezed, so I guess another one will be needed soon for that side as well.

Thanks all in advance

Paul

9

Omega General Help / Re: Slightly rough idle and a little warmer than usual

« on: 21 April 2011, 14:18:34 »

Gary,

re: point 2 - sounds normal to me, my 2.6 does just the same and has always done so, settles at 85 on a cold day whatever speed it is run at, and drifts up to the fan cut in temp and then goes up and down until running fast ish again with more air flowing over the radiator. On a hot day just runs slightly nearer 90.

Re point 1 - rough idle, hmmm.... many possibilities, mucky / sticky egr, bad leads / DIS pack, blocked air filter, lazy injector, etc. Not sure but start with the stuff that can be cleaned - egr etc.
I take it that you used genuine GM rocker gaskets and black sealant when you changed them, 'cos if not pattern ones have a nasty habit of only lasting 4-6 months and then filling the plug wells up. Pull the leads and check if there is any oil in the plug wells.

Does it lose any water?

The only other thing that might be worth checking is the lamba sensors, mine went (but not failed) at 135K miles and renewed they have given the engine back 10% more fuel economy and a better running temperature and smoother idle.  These hadn't failed on mine, just got sluggish and so the mixture was cycling to try and keep up.

Cheers

Paul

10

Omega General Help / Re: Any recommended place for parts?

« on: 21 April 2011, 09:51:58 »

It might be worth checking at vauxhallworldparts.com as well, they have very good prices for genuine and oem parts, though delivery is extra, unless you happen to be in Grays - Essex and can collect.

11

Omega General Help / Re: Windscreen glare

« on: 05 April 2011, 13:30:03 »

I found some dash cleaner (Carplan Dash Valet, Matt finish cleaner) that makes the finish matt and reduces the glare.  Doesn't stop it completely though, but it does help. I also use good old fashioned vinegar and paper to clean the screen on the inside so that there is no 'polish' to reflect off the surface of.

Cheers

Paul

12

Omega General Help / Re: front discs

« on: 05 April 2011, 13:56:06 »

I must admit to having used Mintex discs and pads on the front of my 2.6 and they are absoultely fine, but my use of brakes is not that hard, I am around the 800 miels a week on a motorway sort of driver so they don't get a lot of use, that said I have had to use them in anger a few times courtesy of some east european truckers and they are good hot or cold.  I have also tried Apex which were Ok until I lent the car to the wife......it's an auto and she always leaves it in gear foot hard on the brakes at traffic lights etc. and the Apex discs warped a little, well just one actually but even so.
I have had the green stuff pads and EBC discs, absolutely the worst I've ever used, they don't work cold at all and then the discs warp when hot, worst of both worlds.  But that's only my experience.

The Mintex brakes have now done 35K and are showing no signs of any significant wear to the discs or pads so I'm still happy and the brakes work well.

Just my 2p.

13

Omega General Help / Re: 3.2 rear brake disc removal (or not)

« on: 05 April 2011, 13:38:21 »

Just done mine at 8 years old and they required a lot of 'percusion persuasion' with a 1 lb hammer but they did let go after a while. Don't smack the friction surface, it is likely to break and fly off into either a) somewhere you can't find and then will end up in a tyre, or b) your eyes, neither of which is good.

Patience works, and sometimes big hammers, but big hammers always break something when they land somewhere you didn't want them to.

The other thing I have done (on an old Granada) was to heat up the disc where it meets the hub flange with blowtorch (trying not to fry the wheel bearing) and then give it a solid smack with a smallish hammer.  That seemed to work too.

Best of luck.

14

Omega General Help / Re: Some Sort Of Failed Bearing....

« on: 23 April 2010, 15:32:52 »

I'm with the consensus, slip the aux belt off and start the engine, if noise still there stop it and get the cambelt cover off to sort out the bother.  Mine did this twice after the belts / tensioners were changed by Vx and fortunately they accepted the liability, but the problem was an overtensioned belt and the rubber 'swarf' if that's the right word, was collected all over the water pump (twice - I guess they don't learn), plus they hadn't quite timed the cams correctly either.  Anyway I use Darth Loo Knee now and he very careful, knows what he's about and I've had no recurrence of the noise or problems since.
I suspect this is similar to your problem, but get it sorted very quickly as compared to a cam belt kit an engine is expensive!

Cheers

Paul

15

Omega General Help / Re: Cannister type oil filter ......

« on: 23 April 2010, 09:36:59 »

Definitely 24mm, I use a socket on a 18 inch breaker bar to reach and it saves me bashing or burning my knuckles on the pre-cats when changing the oil (5 week intervals as I do 1000 miles a week!) Never had a problem, BUT, I do NOT overtighten the cap of the canister, and use a short ratchet to tighten it up and no more than hand tight and about as much pressure as a handshake on the ratchet, pulling against the steering arm (gentle squeeze).
Go steady and you will be fine, advise against the 3/8 square drive as well, this is a cast ally case and will just disintegrate if it's already too tight and won't budge, I'd go for a strap wrench around the body of the cannister and a socket on a breaker bar, and a firm tap or two to release the end cap.

Cheers

Paul