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Omega General Help / Re: Massive Clattering Noise
« on: 10 June 2025, 11:12:49 »
What make and model of timing belt kit did you use?
- 28 June 2025, 03:26:17
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2
Omega General Help / Re: Oil Leak around Oil Filter Area, V6, Y26SE
« on: 07 June 2025, 18:21:44 »
Might be GM# 9240161 Opel KAT 56-50-761.
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Omega General Help / Re: K015453XS GATES and V6 Y26SE Timing Belt Rear Cover
« on: 28 May 2025, 16:39:00 »
Contitech CT990K1 is correct for your car and has the correct backplate. The Gates equivalent is K025453XS. Engine numbers 08300419 to 08578511.
Contitech CT884K1 is for C25XE and X25XE/X30XE. The Gates equivalent is K015453XS which seems to be what you have received. These kits are for engine numbers up to 08300418. The original backplates on these engines have the letter "D" moulded into it. The rollers on the "D" backplate were subject to failures which did not go down well in the USA. Post model year '97, there was a mandated retrofit update to the backplate, upper idler and the tensioner and a strengthened drive belt. These redesigned backplates have E or E1 or E2 moulded into them. That's the reference in Haynes.
You should not reuse a "D" backplate. Any of the "E" versions you can swap over the upper idler and tensioner to get the assembly to fit.
You should also be able to use Contitech CT990K2 or Gates K035453XS kits. These are for later Y26SE/Y32SE (and Z32SE not used in Omega B), engine number 08578512 onwards. This has a lower idler roller without any eccentric adjustment.
Contitech CT884K1 is for C25XE and X25XE/X30XE. The Gates equivalent is K015453XS which seems to be what you have received. These kits are for engine numbers up to 08300418. The original backplates on these engines have the letter "D" moulded into it. The rollers on the "D" backplate were subject to failures which did not go down well in the USA. Post model year '97, there was a mandated retrofit update to the backplate, upper idler and the tensioner and a strengthened drive belt. These redesigned backplates have E or E1 or E2 moulded into them. That's the reference in Haynes.
You should not reuse a "D" backplate. Any of the "E" versions you can swap over the upper idler and tensioner to get the assembly to fit.
You should also be able to use Contitech CT990K2 or Gates K035453XS kits. These are for later Y26SE/Y32SE (and Z32SE not used in Omega B), engine number 08578512 onwards. This has a lower idler roller without any eccentric adjustment.
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Omega General Help / Re: Crankshaft sensor question.
« on: 23 April 2025, 12:49:10 »There are three different crank sensors for the V6's. All three have different resistances.
90492006 is 550Ω. It has a square sided connector and most V6 cars have an oval sided loom connector. So it will fit in the block just fine but you can't connect it. And no, you can't just cut and splice splice the loom off your existing sensor because the resistance in the sensor head is incorrect. My guess is that these are early Calibra sensors.
90492061 is (circa) 720Ω is the early iteration of the oval connector sensor. Supposedly used on some early X25XE. Information on EPC is incorrect.
A 2.6/3.2 is much more likely to use 90540743 aka Bosch 0-261-210-131. The sensor head might also be stamped with a factory production number 90494182. Cadillac and Saab use the factory production part number, it's still the same Bosch 0-261-210-131. This sensor has an oval sided connector and a resistance of 900Ω.
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Omega General Help / Re: V6 Camshaft Sprocket Bolt Renewal and How to Prevent Sprocket Rotation
« on: 07 April 2025, 16:13:56 »
Try a Saab specialist. The Saab V6 (B308) must use the same bolts. You might strike lucky.
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Omega General Help / Re: Diff ratio. How to identify.
« on: 28 March 2025, 13:36:04 »
There should be an ID tag on the bottom of the diff. The ratio should be at the bottom right of the tag. Something like 38:9=4.22. That said given the age of these diffs the ID tag might well have disappeared.
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Omega General Help / Re: UK police spec gear lever.
« on: 23 March 2025, 14:00:15 »
Does you car have the Police gearshift?
Regardless it seems to me that you need part number 5 from your drawing, "GM# 90435930 / Opel KAT 7-38-768 Collar, reverse gearshift lever (NLS-No Replacement Part)". And that part seems to be the same on all the manual gearshift levers.
Since it's NLS (No Longer Serviced) and No Replacement Part it likely went out of production in 2003. So you might struggle to find a new lever assembly or the reverse collar on it's own.
I suggest you put up a part wanted message in the Test Zone of the forum and hopefully the Admin will move it to the correct Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted section.
Regardless it seems to me that you need part number 5 from your drawing, "GM# 90435930 / Opel KAT 7-38-768 Collar, reverse gearshift lever (NLS-No Replacement Part)". And that part seems to be the same on all the manual gearshift levers.
Since it's NLS (No Longer Serviced) and No Replacement Part it likely went out of production in 2003. So you might struggle to find a new lever assembly or the reverse collar on it's own.
I suggest you put up a part wanted message in the Test Zone of the forum and hopefully the Admin will move it to the correct Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted section.
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Omega General Help / Re: UK police spec gear lever.
« on: 22 March 2025, 18:35:35 »
Seems to me that the UK Police spec gear lever assembly has the same part number as the standard version without leather (trim?). IE GM# 90436516 Opel KAT 7-38-124. And this assembly was only used until chassis S1127872. The S indicates Model Year 1995. Your car is much later
GM# 90436517 Opel KAT 7-38-173 would seem to be the lever assembly fitted to all manual cars after MY1995 and had leather trim. So that's likely your car.
Good luck finding one. Have you dismantled the gear lever to see why the reverse pull-up isn't working?
GM# 90436517 Opel KAT 7-38-173 would seem to be the lever assembly fitted to all manual cars after MY1995 and had leather trim. So that's likely your car.
Good luck finding one. Have you dismantled the gear lever to see why the reverse pull-up isn't working?
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Omega General Help / Re: Massive Clattering Noise
« on: 20 March 2025, 21:57:04 »
Well done!
You've mentioned installing a new belt. What about the idler rollers and the tensioner? Are they being renewed or just the belt?
You've mentioned installing a new belt. What about the idler rollers and the tensioner? Are they being renewed or just the belt?
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Omega General Help / Re: Massive Clattering Noise
« on: 14 March 2025, 18:15:20 »Hi. Well I’ve had the car from new - Oct 2002 - and camshafts have never been removed or disturbed.The pins are a permanent feature. They lock the sprocket orientation on the camshaft. At least until the bolt is fully tightened.
I did mention earlier that 4 of the 1-2 bank cam cover bolts were only finger tight, but that may be irrelevant.
I don’t suppose access to the pin's location is a) easy or b) possible?
Once the sprocket is fitted, do the pins still have a purpose on this engine? Or are they just for installation alignment?
I agree, I can't see how they can fall out unless the sprocket bolts are removed and the sprockets are loose enough. That would probably wreck the valves if the engine was running. So they must have been removed and lost/mislaid when the sprockets were removed in the past for maintenance, which you are certain hasn't happened. If the pins were mislaid it doesn't mean they are not now present. Perhaps new pins were installed when the originals were mislaid. I doubt if it happened at the factory.
It is not usually necessary to remove the sprockets unless you want to work on the camshafts or valves. EG routine changing of the timing belt doesn't require sprocket removal.
As to the cam cover bolts, the torque is 8Nm. That's finger tight and a bit.
The pins you found look like the cam sprocket pins but they may well be from something else.
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Omega General Help / Re: Massive Clattering Noise
« on: 14 March 2025, 14:46:05 »
My earlier suggestion of the locking/shipping pin for the aux belt tensioner is clearly wrong as there are now four pins.
I now suspect that the pins are camshaft sprocket locking pins. GM# 90501111. Four per V6 engine. The later sprocket design is a one size fits all. One mark for inlet timing and one mark for exhaust timing. And two positions for the locking pin.
If so, at some point at least the sprockets and maybe the cam shafts have been removed and replaced/reinstated. Perhaps the pins were dropped or otherwise not reinstated or left somewhere by magnetism and fell down.
Anyway I'd want to be certain that the sprockets, as fitted now, each have the pin in-situ. I suspect they must be in place since the cams haven't been disturbed for years. Or have they been disturbed recently?
I now suspect that the pins are camshaft sprocket locking pins. GM# 90501111. Four per V6 engine. The later sprocket design is a one size fits all. One mark for inlet timing and one mark for exhaust timing. And two positions for the locking pin.
If so, at some point at least the sprockets and maybe the cam shafts have been removed and replaced/reinstated. Perhaps the pins were dropped or otherwise not reinstated or left somewhere by magnetism and fell down.
Anyway I'd want to be certain that the sprockets, as fitted now, each have the pin in-situ. I suspect they must be in place since the cams haven't been disturbed for years. Or have they been disturbed recently?
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Omega General Help / Re: Massive Clattering Noise
« on: 09 March 2025, 11:47:43 »
The eccentric on the top idler roller isn't right. The point should be at around 11 o'clock and it seems to be more like 2 o'clock. So it's moved. The bolt must be loose. So the belt has lost tension between the inlet cams.
Take out the plugs if necessary and turn the crank to TDC on cylinder one but be careful and stop if you feel resistance. Take another picture of the tensioner when at TDC. When the crank mark is at TDC then the timing marks on the cam pulleys should line up with the timing marks on the backplate. Ignore any markings on the belt itself. Check both banks with the proper timing gauge.
Take out the plugs if necessary and turn the crank to TDC on cylinder one but be careful and stop if you feel resistance. Take another picture of the tensioner when at TDC. When the crank mark is at TDC then the timing marks on the cam pulleys should line up with the timing marks on the backplate. Ignore any markings on the belt itself. Check both banks with the proper timing gauge.