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1

Omega General Help / Re: Omega engine troubles (BANG!)

« on: 20 December 2011, 23:06:31 »

There's a breaker just outside Gainsborough, which isn't far from you, who specialises in Omegas. Sadly mine went to him a few months ago and it was a 2.5 V6 CDX. If he hasn't still got the engine from mine he said he was collecting several a week, so he's bound to have another.

2

Omega General Help / Re: V6 Won't start??

« on: 02 June 2011, 23:08:32 »

I checked my key chip and it is in place and well secure. It is retained in a recess, so unless the key came apart I can't see much scope for it to move. I thought possibly internal damage to the chip could be a possibility.
I didn't really notice the EML flashing while the engine was cranking. If it happens again I will take note. If there was a fault it hasn't left a code other than the code 31 - Engine RPM signal (crankshaft sensor) no signal, which is always there when the engine is stopped.

3

Omega General Help / Re: V6 Won't start??

« on: 01 June 2011, 00:44:55 »

DTC,
Searching for similar problem to the one I have and I think this could be it. About 2 weeks ago I couldn't start the car. It was spinning over well and was just not firing up or even trying to fire. I did a few checks and noticed no spark at all and thought it could be the immobiliser. I recalled that my son had gone to get something from the car earlier and had thrown the keys to me. Although I caught them they would have suffered a bit of a shock load. A few gentle taps of the key seemed to fix the problem and no recurrence until today. I can't recall dropping or any rough handling of the keys at all today and this time gentle tapping didn't help. I even took the key apart to see if there was anything obviously wrong, but could see nothing obvious. Fortunately the spare key I have then started the car first turn, which was great, but then just to confirm that the cause of the problem was the key I tried to start it again with the original key and it started no problem, so now I'm not sure.

Is this likely to be a key related immobiliser problem. If the chip can become loose and be refitted can you give me any pointers as to what to look for?

Any ideas would be appreciated.

4

Omega General Help / Re: Inst. Cons. on display...

« on: 30 April 2011, 23:26:18 »

Mr Hagon,
I have just replaced my DIS pack (again), but before I did I had an intermittent misfire mainly only when the engine was under load i.e accelerating. I was forced to adjust my driving style with much more careful use of the right foot. As a result the fuel economy was no worse than before the misfire. Now I have fixed it I have seen the instantaneous mpg bottom out at 7.1mpg quite regularly. This is purely down to the driving style and is a problem with the driver and not a problem with the car.
By the way I get 0.2g/hr at idle with a V6 when it gets warm and  I agree with jonnycool watching that instantaneous fuel consumption will drive you crazy.

5

Omega General Help / Re: Any recommended place for parts?

« on: 19 April 2011, 23:04:13 »

Shelby,
I replaced the front brake pads on mine about 3 weeks ago and Warners offered me a set of Discs and pads for £80. That's with the trade club membership and there was a special offer on as well, which they may still be running. I only needed pads, which at about £17 I thought was a pretty good price for the genuine VX parts. I'm in the Lincoln area as well, so if you want to check the trade club price with Warners and that they have stock and the offer is still on I could meet you there and get them at the trade club price. I pass there twice a day anyway.

6

Omega General Help / Re: Back wheel bearing

« on: 23 March 2011, 23:08:13 »

The diff was something someone mentioned as an alternative source of the noise, but I don't think the noise from a noisy diff would change as you cornered left or right and it might change with load i.e. quieter when coasting and noisier under acceleration. I don't have first hand experience of a noisy diff, just a thought.
Andy H, did the noise from the brakes change when you touched the brakes? If it did it could be something sport could check for. The wheel bearing noise is speed dependent, but touching the brakes doesn't make any difference (until the speed drops obviously).

7

Omega General Help / Re: Back wheel bearing

« on: 22 March 2011, 21:48:10 »

I recently did mine. The symptoms were the same as yours, noisy when going straight noisier on a right turn and quieter on a left. From the drivers seat it was difficult to tell which side the noise was coming from. I even put my MP3 player in record mode and drove with it on each side and surprisingly the recordings sounded exactly the same. I think the whole back area of the car was acting as a sound box. I took advice from the back seat passengers who felt it was noisier from the left side added to the fact that unloading the left wheel in a left turn was quieter.

The recommendation from the experts on this forum was again spot on as it's a pig of a job to do, which is exactly what they said, but if you are forewarned you can prepare your self. Pulling the outer sleeve out in my opinion is the hardest part. I thought dragging it through with a length of M12 studding would do it but I ended up stripping the threads. Once I had got hold of a suitable M16 high tensile bolt (M20 would have been better) I did manage to get it out. Once  I got it moving it wasn't so bad. I did find myself at one point looking at the wishbone to see how difficult it would be to remove, but I persevered.

To put the hub in make sure you have sufficient washers or similar to use as spacers to go over the spline (spline is 32mm OD) and pull hub shaft through. Pushing the hub through is not recommended as there is the risk of pushing the inboard inner sleeve out of the bearing and you don't really want that to happen.

In hindsight I would probably tackle one again. Also when I removed the brake disc/drum although there was still plenty of friction material on the brake shoes the rust had got under it and it came of the backing. No probs I though I'll just pop down the Vx dealer and get some new ones, but they don't stock them. They said they could get me some in 2 days. If they had been doing the job would the car be off the road for the 2 days and I dread to think what the price to fit them would be once they had got it on the ramps and in pieces. Anyway the local motor factor had some so I broke my new rule of only fitting VX parts; they seem to fit OK.

Anyway sport, in summary it's probably the left side and if you just did the right you probably know how to do the job anyway.

8

Omega General Help / Re: New plugs still missing!

« on: 17 February 2011, 21:43:05 »

This thread just goes to show what a fantastic forum this is for getting expert advice. When I started reading this thread I was going to post my own experiences as the symptoms are identical to those I have had on my 1999 2.5 V6, but the advice has led you to identify the probable cause - well done to the experts.

If you've got as far as being able to change the HT leads at the DIS pack you're probably 90% of the way to getting the DIS pack out and probably 75% of the way to getting the cam covers off.

It looks like you will save yourself quite a bit of time doing all 3 together, I did mine in 3 separate stages each about a year apart.

The decision to use VX or pattern parts will depend on how much the saving is and how much you want to do the job again in the near future. My experience is definitely use VX seals for the cam cover. Did you use VX before? If not it may be a lesson you've already learnt and if you did its probably worth investigating why they leaked when you take it apart. Potential cost saving by using non VX is relatively small, maybe £30.

For the DIS pack and HT leads I went for non VX. I was astonished by the price of the VX parts from the local main dealer. The saving on the DIS pack was about £140 (£40 compared with £180) and I think was about £70 saving on the HT leads.  The savings here were more and the consequences of the parts failing less serious, so I took the risk. So far they have been OK, but I may well regret it in the future if they fail. I guess you have to do you own assessment.

9

Omega General Help / Re: Oil change Interval?

« on: 06 February 2011, 22:32:27 »

I am sure the recommended oil & filter change interval for my Omega is every 10,000 miles and the timing belt 80,000 miles. When I got Omega the service record showed the first 6 oil & filter changes in 64,000 miles. I do about 10,000 miles a year so I just keep changing them every year. I don't think it's doing the engine any serious damage.

I also noticed in this thread that the 80k in the service book for the timing belt is wrong. I changed mine at 80k and now it's at 155k, so I expect to do it again in 6 months. What timing belt intervals are others using and how many have experienced failures before 80k? Are there any warning signs such as squealing from the tensioner before it fails?

10

Omega General Help / Re: Misfire at low revs

« on: 29 January 2011, 21:28:19 »

AetO,
I have only experience of the one set of seals that didn't fit. Others may be OK, but it is more likely that the VX one will do the job.
Copy parts are generally made to a cost and materials may not be up to the job. The originals will be designed to last several years as they are fitted to the new engines and if they didn't last Vx would gave a major warranty problem. If copy parts only last a year or so I doubt there would be any comeback on the manufacturer.

I always have suspicion over new parts if there is a problem after fitting them. I remember fitting some Champion spark plugs to a mini many years ago. When I had a misfire I suspected I had got something wrong in re assembly of the the distributor cap or something with the HT leads which I had also worked on. I finally found one of the new spark plugs wasn't sparking right. Could be similar with your HT leads.

All through the intermittent misfire and when it was running on 5 cylinders mine always started OK, but the Omega in my experience has always started brilliantly.

11

Omega General Help / Re: Misfire at low revs

« on: 28 January 2011, 21:50:19 »

AetO,
The recommendation on the cam cover seals given by Varche is sound. I tried some copy parts and I didn't even get to see if they would seal as they wouldn't even fit. I then got some Vx ones and no problems for the last 2 years.

However, in my experience oil in the plug wells didn't have any effect on running and there was no mis-fire in that condition. That doesn't necessarily mean it can't cause a mis-fire.

I have had a DIS pack failure and it was only running on 5 cylinders. Someone told me that it must have only been running on 4 cylinders as there are 3 coils each feeding 2 cylinders on the V6. It didn't seem that rough though and maybe it was a failure of the connection between the coil and just one terminal.

Only recently I had an intermittent misfire that was worse at low revs and acceleration. At high revs or steady load it was running on 6. I couldn't find any problems but then it started mis-firing all the time and I tracked it to an HT lead. I replaced the lead and it fixed the regular mis-fire and the intermittent mis-fire as well. All I can think of was the HT was failing and was causing a weak spark. Fine except when the engine was under load. Then the lead failed completely making it easier to find.

Don't rule out spark plugs or HT leads just because they are recently replaced). You may get a spark, but is it the same strength on all plugs?

 

12

Omega General Help / Re: Head light ajuster

« on: 23 January 2011, 19:40:01 »

The aluminium ones look great and to make it worth doing I suppose this is a common problem. Mine went a year or 2 ago but I didn't notice until the MOT failure on alignment. I also found that Vx dealer only supplies replacement whole units at about £180. I could have sourced a replacement for elsewhere for £90, but as I needed to get the MOT done and use the car I fixed it by glueing a nut with epoxy resin either side of the plastic end where it had split through the thread.

The trickiest bit was getting the lens off the headlight. I thought the lens was going to snap, so I took care and it was OK. 

13

Omega General Help / Re: Rear wheel bearing

« on: 23 January 2011, 19:11:52 »

Boditza,
Just jacked the car up and checked the wheel bearing for play and it seems fairly tight still (handbrake off of course), so I don't think mine is too close to complete failure, just noisy. 

14

Omega General Help / Re: Rear wheel bearing

« on: 23 January 2011, 17:32:02 »

Andy H,
I'm fairly sure it's not the rear brakes. I did those last March and from recollection I took off the Disc/drum to check the handbrake shoes. There seemed to be no problem there so refitted and adjusted up the handbrake.

The noise to me sounds more like a rumble than a rubbing noise.

15

Omega General Help / Re: Rear wheel bearing

« on: 22 January 2011, 23:23:52 »

The link from Andy H is interesting. From the pictures it looks like they used a substantial slide hammer to remove the hub and another tool looks like a hydraulic press to put the new bearing in, but the bit I imagine to be the hardest is to remove the bearing outer sleeve from the housing if its seize/corroded in.
kcl from Finland managed to do the job, but it does appear that he started in August 2007 and finished in March 2009. I was hoping I might be able to do it and only take the car off the road only for a weekend.