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Messages - Clarkey

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1
Update on this. I replaced engine temp sensors on coolant bridge (did both while I was at it) and still have same issue. At operating temp (engine ecu live data 95 deg) the live data in instrument reads 65 deg for coolant temp. Same thing with spare dash I acquired. I then let the engine cool and rechecked. Engine temp was 25deg in engine ecu feed but reads steady 50deg in instrument live data. When I ground single wire for temp gauge, overheat light on but temp reading on instrument live data is 0 deg. What am I missing?

On another note the rev counter was reading too high. I had to reprogram code index on instrument from 12 to 7 to have it register correctly. I have no idea how code index changed but wonder if some time in oven after respray could have caused issues. Am open to suggestions.

J.

2
ECU and dash sensors are separate on the 6 cylinder ones (not sure about 4, as never owned one).

Ground the single wire for longer - the dash gauge is massively damped (30+ seconds) - to see if it moves needle.  If it does, replace the sensor (or check it for a large build up of crud, which if it has, this will likely also be present throughout the coolant system, so you know what you need to do!)

Thanks TheBoy. You are the man. I was over thinking this. New sensor ordered.

3
That is the dash temp sensor. The fact it grounds the light on suggests the wiring is sound... Doing this should also move the gauge. Did you try with the ignition on? If it still doesn't move, then a new sensor is probably on the cards with the following caveat...

Ignition was on when I grounded wire. Was surprised gauge did not move yet overheat light on when I grounded wire. When I performed actuator test with Tech 2, needle went to max and light came on. As engine temp showed 60deg on instrument data feed it was not registering hot enough to move needle.

Could also be that the gauge itself is stuck... A gentle tap of a couple of potholes may be enough encouragement.

I've tried a couple of "gentle" taps when driving at the beginning. Looks like replacement sensor is the way forward. Before I fit it can anyone tell me the correct code index for the instrument panel for my machine?

Thanks for reply Doctor G

4
Hey all, not been on here in some time.

I have recently put my Omega back on the road after being parked up a number of years. It is a 2001 3.2 Auto. I just fitted a new thermostat but still have no engine temp reading on dash. I plugged in tech 2 to check live data and did an actuator test while I was at it. Engine at operating temp reading 90deg C in engine ECU live feed. When I check engine temp from instrument feed it reads 60deg C at operating temp. I know there are 2 sensors on coolant bridge at back of engine. I took wire off single contact sensor as I thought this was for instrument temp feed and put it direct to earth which turned on engine overheat light but did not move temp gauge. I also tried a replacement dash and got same result. Does single wire sensor simply operate overheat light or does it supply engine temp signal to dash as well?

Thanks in advance,

James.

5
General Car Chat / Re: Another Astra J Query
« on: 10 December 2020, 15:41:44 »
The coil packs on Corsa E & Astra J 1.4 are a regular failure. Fitters hate changing plugs as most times coil pack needed as well. Would not surprise me if 1.6 suffered same issue.

6
Omega General Help / Re: Rear arch repair advice.
« on: 22 February 2020, 12:43:18 »
R/H DRIVERS SIDE clicky

L/H PASSENGERS SIDE clicky

£40 a side delivered , limited stock  :y

Thanks for that. Now to get the finger out & get it done.  8)

7
Omega General Help / Re: Rear arch repair advice.
« on: 20 February 2020, 16:32:47 »
Thanks for replies chaps. Car is solid besides. There is no urgency with this as is dry stored until I get to it.
@Nick W Do you have a link to repair panel supplier?

Cheers,

J.

8
Omega General Help / Rear arch repair advice.
« on: 20 February 2020, 12:36:22 »
Have parked up Omega a few years ago and have not been on forum as a result. My dad has taken ownership and is going to tidy Mig up and drive it occasionally going forward. With this in mind, the rear arches are very crusty. Inner lip has disintegrated since I parked it up. Am looking for advice on best way to approach repair. Are there repair sections available or is replacing complete rear quarters the way to go.

Thanks in advance,

James.

9
Omega Gallery / Re: Back with new omega 2,5 dti 110kw 2002.12
« on: 24 November 2015, 13:48:43 »
Very tidy Omega you have. Health to enjoy. :y

10
Omega Gallery / Re: My MV6
« on: 16 September 2015, 14:22:24 »
Moving air intake to this position would spell the end of your engine in Ireland I fear. Too low for driving in wet. Hit one decent puddle and engine would be full of water.

11
Omega Gallery / Re: my new mv6
« on: 16 December 2013, 12:30:35 »
Very tidy looking Mig. Best of luck with it. :y
Pity the Irish motor tax is so ludicrous on the big engines though.  :(

12
Omega General Help / Re: Problems with self-leveling Gas headlamps
« on: 30 October 2013, 13:53:52 »
You may need to programme and calibrate the leveling ECUs after fitting. Had the same error message with my Vectra CDX. Couldn't calibrate it though as ECU gave up and as I couldn't source one second hand I changed code index on info display for no AFL lights. Lights work fine without self leveling & no message on display. Tech 2 is required though.

13
Omega Gallery / Re: My New & Past Omega's
« on: 21 September 2013, 15:09:16 »
What good taste in Omegas you have. :y

14
Omega Gallery / Re: My 3.2 Elite
« on: 04 September 2013, 17:30:33 »
Love the colour. Very tidy motor.

15
Omega Gallery / Re: 01 3.2 Auto Executive
« on: 29 August 2013, 21:32:35 »
Very nice 8) unusaul colour combination as well 8)

Ta. :y

But no Elite ::) no heated rear seats or parking sensors and mid range non satnav radio :-\

Interesting. Must start a wish list. ::)

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