Hey boys. Not bumping this thread but just an update if anyone interested (probably not ).
So front bumper and sill covers off to body man.
Rust treatment and painting finished on entire front end.
Rust proof/paint sills. Then refit everything on receipt. And then can get on with the rear.
One thing to say if anyone is interested (and sorry if I’ve mentioned this before) but this stone chip paint I’ve got (green n black can, made by autotek or something like that) leaves a darling lovely finish!
- 23 November 2025, 11:11:11
- Welcome, Guest
News:
Please play nicely. No one wants to listen/read a keyboard warriors rants....
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71
on: 19 November 2025, 13:31:56
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| Started by Webby the Bear - Last post by Webby the Bear | ||
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72
on: 19 November 2025, 13:05:59
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| Started by Darth Loo-knee - Last post by Marks DTM Calib | ||
The Merc is a bit more robust than that. If it runs dry,.you simply add more fuel and cycle the ignition a handful of times. Same procedure as a filter change. That is true of most but, running it dry means a period of no fuel in the HP pump, metal on metal, no lube, not ideal |
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73
on: 19 November 2025, 12:23:57
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| Started by Darth Loo-knee - Last post by STEMO | ||
.......and chocolate wheels 😁I never let mine get anywhere near that low. Why would you?I could argue its more efficient, but everyone knows I couldn't care less about such things. |
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74
on: 19 November 2025, 11:37:02
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| Started by Varche - Last post by Doctor Gollum | ||
Duck fatSo, turns out it was bent as well. So the bill for welding and straightening was 160 notes. Ouch.Surely that's most of the way to a new wheel ![]() As a question, does welding make them more or less prone to repeat cracking ![]() |
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75
on: 19 November 2025, 11:31:26
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| Started by Darth Loo-knee - Last post by Doctor Gollum | ||
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The Merc is a bit more robust than that. If it runs dry,.you simply add more fuel and cycle the ignition a handful of times. Same procedure as a filter change.
Managed to run the Alabama Mumsybus dry once... 5 litres was only just enough to prime it ![]() |
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76
on: 19 November 2025, 11:11:32
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| Started by Varche - Last post by TheBoy | ||
Even 2nd hand ones are around £200, plus refurbing costs. Last time I looked new, way before JLRs recent unrealitic price hikes, they were over £650.So, turns out it was bent as well. So the bill for welding and straightening was 160 notes. Ouch.Surely that's most of the way to a new wheel |
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77
on: 19 November 2025, 11:10:08
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| Started by Varche - Last post by TheBoy | ||
A month before the MOT is due my XE has fallen out with one of its TPWS sensors.Just one? Might be worth swapping wheels around to prove it to the sensor or the initiators. Most likely the sensor. I've yet to have a sensor fail mind, but I think the battery life is quoted as 7 years. I've bought a couple of packs of 4 from egay in the past, paid around £40 for 4 both times if memory serves, but I bought them when I didn't need them, so could wait for discounts... |
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78
on: 19 November 2025, 11:06:40
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| Started by Darth Loo-knee - Last post by TheBoy | ||
I never let mine get anywhere near that low. Why would you?I could argue its more efficient, but everyone knows I couldn't care less about such things. But life is far too short to waste more time than is necessary filling up. Thats why I tend to choose cars with decent sized tanks. |
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79
on: 19 November 2025, 11:05:11
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| Started by Darth Loo-knee - Last post by TheBoy | ||
Rail, as soon as there is even a hint of air, it dropsTa |
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80
on: 19 November 2025, 10:43:53
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| Started by Varche - Last post by YZ250 | ||
So, turns out it was bent as well. So the bill for welding and straightening was 160 notes. Ouch.Surely that's most of the way to a new wheel If you mean new, as in brand new, they are just shy of £800 ...... per wheel. ![]() |
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