Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Marks DTM Calib]

There are some excellent producst that do sort the rust, there not cheap though.

I have used them a few times on restoration jobs and you end up with bare shiney metal and if treated and painted correctly, the rust does not return.

[albitz]

Got any details please Mark. Could be very useful, considering the age of most Omegas now.

[albitz]

I went mad  about 3 - 4 years ago

As recently as that ? :-/


 

[Martin_1962]

I went mad  about 3 - 4 years ago

As recently as that ? :-/


 

At least no wheel arch rust!

Put loads in both rear arches and in the cills

[cem_devecioglu]

I hope that area was sanded before paint

[r1]

Got any details please Mark. Could be very useful, considering the age of most Omegas now.

two words
bilt hamber

not cheap but very very good

[Martin_1962]

Has anyone tried lead loading?

[Marks DTM Calib]

Got any details please Mark. Could be very useful, considering the age of most Omegas now.

http://www.bilthamber.com/deoxgel.html

Bilt-Hamber and yes, it does exactly as it shows in the photo! 

[Marks DTM Calib]

Has anyone tried lead loading?

Difficult to get hold of now......for obvious reasons! 

[andyc]

Frosts do a complete starter pack for lead loading

http://www.frost.co.uk/

And i agree about the bilthamber, as far as i'm concerned its a wonder product although the powder is better than the gel

Andy

[ted_one]

Yes agree BH is the product I went for as it's directed more towards restoring classics and they have a large range of products which cover all aspects of rust treatment and prevention.A word of advice with the rust  killer you need a reasonably mild /warm day if your working outside as it needs a minimum of 11+Degrees for it to cure or it won't work,good stuff though but it still comes down to thorough prep and attention to detail. [smiley=wink.gif]

[dragonlord]

yep cant treat rust only way is cut it out

and trust me never use blood halffords rattle cans the paint is shit

if you must use rattel cans
go to your local paint factors and get to mix up some proper paint and fill up there rattel cans

not onywill you have proper paint them cans will  spray better

nitro it not really the air temprituer that the problem

it the panel temp your working and humidity is more your problem if your clear coating as well

if you use a heat gun you can warm it that

only rattel can stuff that is any good is the mixed paint factors stuff

and u-pol cans
upol high build primer is great for spot repairs

to doo the pain mask off a slitly largher area that the repare and primer it with a high build primmer feather it in

now you going to have to blend the panel if clear coated  then open a larger arear on mask and blend in color

then whol panel will need re clearing on less you get the good place where you can blend and polish it
if not cleard it easy to blend then color sand and polish

you can aid the blending but by praying mainly thiners and just a touch of pain for final color coat and on edge

troble is it easy to do a hole panel as long as you prep it right and use common sence

but blending and sport repairs are a art that you have to pratice and  learn

and it not going to go right if you only had a few gos at it

some colors are a nightmare to blend epecily siver mertalics

also blending metalics is hard as you have to try and imitate the spray paten of the last spray or fatory finish for it to look right

if you dont know how to do it worth get a pro to do it if it a decent car

unless you spray your self  well

I can spray but am not that great at belnding and spot repaires

so use a local spot repaire guy that a wizard with a spay gun

[jerry]

all good reading guys as Im in the same boat! As well as the normal slight bubbling under the windows Ive got one dodgy wheelarch which I'll probably leave until feb/marchs bad weather is all gone. Had a rust scab done on it 2 years ago along with some spots on bottom of door panels. Panels still OK but wheelarch issue is starting to come back. Always feel that once the rust is there its always going to return at some point. Anyhow, in the meantime Ive scraped the crap from inside of the arch and put some underseal on and just make sure theres plenty of  wax and AC50 on the surface area . Doesnt help living next to the sea with all the salt and sand-though our Toyota Emina jap import which is 16 years old and wasnt undersealed until waxoyled when we got it has not one bit of rust apart from the wipers!

[bluey]

Another vote for Bilt Hamber from me.  Their etch weld primer is super stuff and the gel rust remover is excellent. 

Also, someone mentioned using underseal but much better to use a decent stone chip covering as it doesn't dry out and trap moisture underneath between it and the bare metal surface.