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[V6Astra F]

Hope this is the right section 

Hi

I would like some more info about what will work to get more power out of the 3.2 .
Currently I do have a Unichip Q+ installed , at the time it was mapped there was a leak on both exhaust manifolds , the valves on the intake were swapped around and I had a 4bar FPR connected to the wrong reference port ( I know I feel like a Idiot  ). Went back to the 3Bar fpr and connected it to the correct reference port just under the TPS . Replaced the Exhaust manifold gaskets . Valves on the intake were connected correctly .

Heres more info on my current setup .
Z32SE motor its still standard
Motronic 2.8.1 with Unichip Q+
3 Bar FPR
K&N FP Filter
216CC X25XE injectors
Light Flywheel
Magnecor 8.5MM Leads
Vectra B Intake Manifold
57MM Freeflow SS Exhaust
F18CR Gearbox
205/40/17 Wheels

The tunner only mapped the car to 5500rpm and gave me a story about the wheels spinning on the dyno since the car is to light for the power and the power started to drop off at 5500rpm, I call that BS  . I lost a few BHP as you can see 

Torque Graph doesnt look right too me , suspect its because the valves were swapped and the bad tunning 

What I would like to do is fit a 63mm exhaust with custom headers , maybe get a set of hi torque cams , fit a 3.8 Bar fpr or refit the 4.0Bar since its a 3.2l or will this overfuel the car ? Would also like to get a F28 or maybe even a F18WR gearbox to give it some longer legs , will the 3.2 benefit from this ? Possibly getting a 2.8.3 ECU and a loom form a Vectra 2.5 GSi , will this be better than the 2.8.1 setup I have ? Planning a CAI just need to find the correct place for the pipe .

What other info and advice can you guys offer me , very hard to get performance parts here since everything needs to be imported for this motor . Are the cams worth the money and should I try to get a bigger TB and lower divider ?

Thank You 

[KW]

The tunner only mapped the car to 5500rpm and gave me a story about the wheels spinning on the dyno since the car is to light for the power and the power started to drop off at 5500rpm, I call that BS

Your call is correct, you ain't going to generate anywhere near enough with your setup to start causing the car to spit itself off the rollers.

The fact your "tuning guy" was prepared to start tweaking it when there was already a defect in place (blowing exhaust) already proves that he is someone to be avoided IMO.

[Kevin Wood]

That has a huge flat spot around 3500 RPM.

TBH, I think you are making the mistake of throwing parts at the system from all over the place rather than either sticking with a configuration that is proven to work or equipping yourself with the tools to develop something that works.

My recommendation (and it worked for me in practice) is to put a proper mappable ECU such as a Megasquirt or Emerald on it and ditch the piggy-back box, and then get yourself a wideband Lambda sensor. You will then be able to tune it yourself on to road, figure out what is a good and bad idea, and there will be no need for repeated visits to a rolling road to get fleeced.

If you have the standard induction setup and cams, you should get a lovely smooth torque delivery from 2500 up to 6000 RPM. I would get back to that point before you complicate issues by changing cams, etc.

I doubt you will improve torque delivery by a cam change. That's really down to the engine capacity, assuming there are no glaring issues with the standard setup, which there aren't, really, on this engine.

Kevin

[Kevin Wood]

.. and yes, mapping it with issues already present is a bad idea. The guy has taken your money and done what you asked where he really should have sent you away to get it tip-top first.

I would try to get back to the point where it runs properly on the factory ECU before doing anything else.

Kevin

[V6Astra F]

Its running much better with the MV6 EPRom from the other ECU , as this solved the Kangarooing I had. Tell me with the Megasquirt or Emerald ECU's will I loose my fuel computer info display ? I have taken the Unichip out to test the car with the MV6 EPRom this week  . With the old EPRom according to "My Naff Code Reader" the knock retard was up to -12degrees at some staged  , car aways showed a advance of -6 at idle and now its on 1 to 2 at idle . Sounds so much better  8-)

Thanks 

[Kevin Wood]

Its running much better with the MV6 EPRom from the other ECU , as this solved the Kangarooing I had. Tell me with the Megasquirt or Emerald ECU's will I loose my fuel computer info display ? I have taken the Unichip out to test the car with the MV6 EPRom this week  . With the old EPRom according to "My Naff Code Reader" the knock retard was up to -12degrees at some staged  , car aways showed a advance of -6 at idle and now its on 1 to 2 at idle . Sounds so much better  8-)

Thanks 

Where was the previous EPROM from?

A lot of knock retard suggests either it was getting the timing wrong for some reason or possibly that it was running seriously lean. Either way, I haven't ever seen mine go into knock retard. Does the unichip modify the crank sensor signal between sensor and ECU to set the timing? Just wondering if that was going wrong?

An aftermarket ECU won't have outputs to drive the fuel computer. Having said that, if you are fooling the main ECU by fitting a piggy-back box the accuracy of the readings will suffer anyway.

But.. it was a good step to get back to the standard ECU to be sure everything's working OK.

Do you have the software to map the unichip or do you have to go back to them every time?

If you can map it yourself it might be worth persevering with it, but I would certainly recommend a wideband lambda. For the cost of one rolling road session you can set yourself up to tune it yourself, and you'll also have a useful diagnostic tool.

Kevin

[V6Astra F]

The old EPRom I had was from a Omega B 2.5 Motronic 2.8.1 that one got the timming wrong by itself (-6 on idle ), I had another one and it did the same so I took out the EPRom from what according to the partnumber it should be a Motronic 2.8 from a x30xe MV6 Omega B but after I googled a bit again it turned out to be a 2.8.1 also . Swapped the EPRom and whala timming sorted  8-) , car feels alive again . Still got more lean readings from "My Naff Code Reader" so I refitted the 4bar fpr . Have not re connected the Unichip. Dont have any software to map it . Just lost my Immobiliser since it said inactive on "My Naff Code Reader" can it be activated with a Tech 1/2 ?

[Kevin Wood]

Just lost my Immobiliser since it said inactive on "My Naff Code Reader" can it be activated with a Tech 1/2 ?

I've never seen such an option on a Tech2.. but I've never looked, TBH. I'm guessing that part of the ECU config is in the EPROM, so not editable, and the one you have was configured for an application without an immobiliser.

I wonder what was different between these two versions, then? I always thought the 2.5 and 3.0 were basically the same setup. :-/

I could probably read a 3.0 EPROM from a UK car (assuming someone has one I could borrow) and send you the code, if that would help?

Kevin

[Jimbob]

i think your looking at the immobiliser option the wrong way round...

inactive - its let the engine start
active - stopping the engine starting

not played fully, but think thats how it works, take the chip out the key and try it again, think you will then see the immobilser is 'active'

[V6Astra F]

I dont think its a big problem , do have a anti hijack installed ect . Did take the chip out of the key and it started  :-? so I guess its not active the Ident on the other ecu was PS if I remember correctly , the other ones are both HH . If you can get a EProm to read can I use "My Naff Code Reader" to write it ? Or will I need special tools 

Heres the Bosch number on the ECU 0261203272

[Kevin Wood]

I dont think its a big problem , do have a anti hijack installed ect . Did take the chip out of the key and it started  :-? so I guess its not active the Ident on the other ecu was PS if I remember correctly , the other ones are both HH . If you can get a EProm to read can I use "My Naff Code Reader" to write it ? Or will I need special tools 

You'd need an EPROM programmer to burn a new chip. It's not programmable inside the ECU at all.

Kevin

[V6Astra F]

Will see if I can source one , might come in handy since im starting to like playing with cars