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[Proz]

I thought they had to be pressed in with some big press thing ?

[Proz]

you can measure the gap between shock and wheel rim prior to dismanteling to replicate the old camber setting, wise to check it after though.

General rule imo
judder or wobble on the brakes is brake issue
judder or wobble in a certain speed range is wheel balance, try 5 dtud balancer
judder or wobble random at any speed or condition is wishbones, just to confirm (as if it was needed) what Mark says.

With squeel, is the shimmed pad fitted on the piston side? if yes try either playing with swapping pads with shims to one side or other, or both shimmed pads to the squeeky wheel, or take the shims of the old pads and stick them onto the 2 non shimmed pads, assuming they are trade club pads.

IME nothing makes any lasting odds to sqeeling brakes except pads with decent shims either riveted or clipped on the back of the pad material.

It doesnt happen under braking .... i fitted the pad with the backing to the piston side .

[Marks DTM Calib]

I thought they had to be pressed in with some big press thing ?

If replacing like with like then yes.

Hence the sudgestion to use polybushes.

If you bash/cut the old rubber out of the centre of the bush and then use a hack saw to cut the sleeve of the bush (from where you have removed the rubber i.e. inside to out) then the metal insert will push out easily.

Poly bushes can be inserted without a press 

Hence its more DIY friendly and actualy not to impossible to do without even removing the whole wishbone assembly

[Proz]

I thought they had to be pressed in with some big press thing ?

If replacing like with like then yes.

Hence the sudgestion to use polybushes.

If you bash/cut the old rubber out of the centre of the bush and then use a hack saw to cut the sleeve of the bush (from where you have removed the rubber i.e. inside to out) then the metal insert will push out easily.

Poly bushes can be inserted without a press 

Hence its more DIY friendly and actualy not to impossible to do without even removing the whole wishbone assembly

Mmm still sounds a bit daunting to a person who isnt good with spanners  ... is there a guide on here for it ... I'll go and check 

[feeutfo]

you can measure the gap between shock and wheel rim prior to dismanteling to replicate the old camber setting, wise to check it after though.

General rule imo
judder or wobble on the brakes is brake issue
judder or wobble in a certain speed range is wheel balance, try 5 dtud balancer
judder or wobble random at any speed or condition is wishbones, just to confirm (as if it was needed) what Mark says.

With squeel, is the shimmed pad fitted on the piston side? if yes try either playing with swapping pads with shims to one side or other, or both shimmed pads to the squeeky wheel, or take the shims of the old pads and stick them onto the 2 non shimmed pads, assuming they are trade club pads.

IME nothing makes any lasting odds to sqeeling brakes except pads with decent shims either riveted or clipped on the back of the pad material.

It doesnt happen under braking .... i fitted the pad with the backing to the piston side .

So thats option 1 out then, and its not wheel balance, so that only leaves wishbones, as said by The Master.

Could try swapping the shimmed pads around, make sure the pads sit flat in the caliper and on the piston and non piston side, do you have the old pads/shims?

[Proz]

you can measure the gap between shock and wheel rim prior to dismanteling to replicate the old camber setting, wise to check it after though.

General rule imo
judder or wobble on the brakes is brake issue
judder or wobble in a certain speed range is wheel balance, try 5 dtud balancer
judder or wobble random at any speed or condition is wishbones, just to confirm (as if it was needed) what Mark says.

With squeel, is the shimmed pad fitted on the piston side? if yes try either playing with swapping pads with shims to one side or other, or both shimmed pads to the squeeky wheel, or take the shims of the old pads and stick them onto the 2 non shimmed pads, assuming they are trade club pads.

IME nothing makes any lasting odds to sqeeling brakes except pads with decent shims either riveted or clipped on the back of the pad material.

It doesnt happen under braking .... i fitted the pad with the backing to the piston side .

So thats option 1 out then, and its not wheel balance, so that only leaves wishbones, as said by The Master.

Could try swapping the shimmed pads around, make sure the pads sit flat in the caliper and on the piston and non piston side, do you have the old pads/shims?

No i dont have the old ones but they didnt have any kind of backing on them at all .

[RobG]

I thought they had to be pressed in with some big press thing ?

If replacing like with like then yes.

Hence the sudgestion to use polybushes.

If you bash/cut the old rubber out of the centre of the bush and then use a hack saw to cut the sleeve of the bush (from where you have removed the rubber i.e. inside to out) then the metal insert will push out easily.

Poly bushes can be inserted without a press 

Hence its more DIY friendly and actualy not to impossible to do without even removing the whole wishbone assembly

Mmm still sounds a bit daunting to a person who isnt good with spanners ... is there a guide on here for it ... I'll go and check 

Not really necessary, just gotta be good with a hacksaw

[Proz]

Im just trying to picture what replacing the bush is like ... i'll try and get underneath it this weekend and maybe get a better picture of whats involved 

[Proz]

Are these the correct items ...


http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAUXHALL-OMEGA-94-03-POWERFLEX-FRONT-BUSH-KIT-/300431512167?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item45f31d1267

 

[2woody]

have you tried the steering box damper ?

[2woody]

Are these the correct items ...


http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAUXHALL-OMEGA-94-03-POWERFLEX-FRONT-BUSH-KIT-/300431512167?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item45f31d1267



 

these don't include the bush we're talking about.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Are these the correct items ...


http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAUXHALL-OMEGA-94-03-POWERFLEX-FRONT-BUSH-KIT-/300431512167?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item45f31d1267

 

Yes.

[Proz]

have you tried the steering box damper ?

No i havn't ... where is it and what am i looking for 

[2woody]

on top of the steering box - adjustment screw and locknut.

make sure that the steerign linkages are pointing straight ahead when you want to go straight ahead, then loosen the locknut and screw in the adjuster by a very small amount. Road test. Repeat until the steering JUST won't self-centre and slacken very slightly.

expect up to 30 adjustments and road-tests until you've got it right.

[Andy H]

I don't think it is a steering damper :-/

If the Omega uses a worm and roller steering box then the adjustment screw pushes the roller against the worm and should be set so that free play is just perceptible when straight ahead.

If it is done up tight enough to make the steering tight then it will be exerting an immense force on the steering quadrant and could cause it to break and cause total loss of steering