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[KillerWatt]

Media types are different, and will allow the writing in different formats yes, but the media format used for writing computer data is a completely different format to that for used for Audio.

I don't recall saying otherwise.

The discs that are commonly known as CDR`s are computer data discs, NOT audio discs.

There is no physical difference between the two Dave.

There are some specifically designed CDR Audio discs out there, but as yet, we have not compiled any data as to their suitability.

The only thing that is "special" about them is that they are designed for use in the standalone recorders that connect to a hi-fi.
"Normal" (I use that term very loosely) CD-R's won't work in the standalone units because they don't have the special header info pre-written that tells the standalone unit it can record to them (so you are forced to buy the overpriced discs).
As far as performance goes, readability comes down to how well the disc is made in the first place.

If you have a copy of the Red, Green or Orange books, I suggest to open them up, have a read and you will see.

Red book is just a standard for writing Audio CD Dave, nothing more, nothing less.


PS
Here ya go Dave, you can read it for yourself

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_Book_(audio_CD_standard)

[Jimbob]

IIRC CDR-Audio are identical to CDR, just more expensive as they paid a small royalty to the music industry.

[TheBoy]

Media types are different, and will allow the writing in different formats yes, but the media format used for writing computer data is a completely different format to that for used for Audio.

I don't recall saying otherwise.

The discs that are commonly known as CDR`s are computer data discs, NOT audio discs.

There is no physical difference between the two Dave.

There are some specifically designed CDR Audio discs out there, but as yet, we have not compiled any data as to their suitability.

The only thing that is "special" about them is that they are designed for use in the standalone recorders that connect to a hi-fi.
"Normal" (I use that term very loosely) CD-R's won't work in the standalone units because they don't have the special header info pre-written that tells the standalone unit it can record to them (so you are forced to buy the overpriced discs).
As far as performance goes, readability comes down to how well the disc is made in the first place.

If you have a copy of the Red, Green or Orange books, I suggest to open them up, have a read and you will see.

Red book is just a standard for writing Audio CD Dave, nothing more, nothing less.


PS
Here ya go Dave, you can read it for yourself

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_Book_(audio_CD_standard)

Read the proper standard, Killerwatt, not some interpretation made by a community of people who frequently don not fully know what thery are talking about.


As said earlier, CDRs are unable to meet Redbook. The players in question were designed to play Redbook (only) compliant disks.

[TheBoy]

That wikipedia link has sod all useful info on it

[TheBoy]

IIRC CDR-Audio are identical to CDR, just more expensive as they paid a small royalty to the music industry.

I thought they used a different construction to make the refelctivity better for various normal players  :-/

[KillerWatt]

IIRC CDR-Audio are identical to CDR, just more expensive as they paid a small royalty to the music industry.

I thought they used a different construction to make the refelctivity better for various normal players  :-/

No J, the only difference between the two is that recordable discs marketed as being for CD-Audio can be used in standalone recorders that connect to the hi-fi.

[Jimbob]

Ill happily stand corrected, but be >20 years since I read about it.

£1 to 1p there is a degree of truth to my suggestion, even if it isnt the full story.

[TheBoy]

Ill happily stand corrected, but be >20 years since I read about it.

£1 to 1p there is a degree of truth to my suggestion, even if it isnt the full story.

I know some countries put a royalty on all blank media, as they know they will always struggle to cope with copyright theft, particularly for music.

[Dave DND]

That wikipedia link has sod all useful info on it

That wikipedia one isn`t even close to the Red book.

[berkin]

Well I don't know how long the 2006 has been out, but CD-R has been around since at least 1995 (I have the first disc I ever burnt and it still works today).
Since then we have come quite a way, and if you buy decent media then the performance characteristics are as near to pressed silver as it's ever going to get.

I have read several topics on CD-R allegedly breaking the physical hardware, but to be honest Dave, if that does happen then I won't lose any sleep over it because it will only cost a couple of hundred to replace it with something a bit more modern.

I use a apple macbook with roxio toast to burn them and TDK cd-r

[TheBoy]

Well I don't know how long the 2006 has been out, but CD-R has been around since at least 1995 (I have the first disc I ever burnt and it still works today).
Since then we have come quite a way, and if you buy decent media then the performance characteristics are as near to pressed silver as it's ever going to get.

I have read several topics on CD-R allegedly breaking the physical hardware, but to be honest Dave, if that does happen then I won't lose any sleep over it because it will only cost a couple of hundred to replace it with something a bit more modern.

I use a apple macbook with roxio toast to burn them and TDK cd-r

iirc, TDK use various dyes.  IF you must use CDRs, I'd go for a better quality CDR, and keep the burn rate down.  Far too long since I've used Toast to remember how to set this, and its probably changed too much anyway


This may help the laser last a bit longer, but I'd try to stick to originals if you possibly can.

[berkin]

Well I don't know how long the 2006 has been out, but CD-R has been around since at least 1995 (I have the first disc I ever burnt and it still works today).
Since then we have come quite a way, and if you buy decent media then the performance characteristics are as near to pressed silver as it's ever going to get.

I have read several topics on CD-R allegedly breaking the physical hardware, but to be honest Dave, if that does happen then I won't lose any sleep over it because it will only cost a couple of hundred to replace it with something a bit more modern.

I use a apple macbook with roxio toast to burn them and TDK cd-r

iirc, TDK use various dyes.  IF you must use CDRs, I'd go for a better quality CDR, and keep the burn rate down.  Far too long since I've used Toast to remember how to set this, and its probably changed too much anyway


This may help the laser last a bit longer, but I'd try to stick to originals if you possibly can.

I generally use originals, but sometimes, especially on long trips, radio tuner won't function anymore due to low signal quality and i want to listen my own collection of songs.

Anyway thanks a lot for your advices.

Cheers

[TheBoy]

Well I don't know how long the 2006 has been out, but CD-R has been around since at least 1995 (I have the first disc I ever burnt and it still works today).
Since then we have come quite a way, and if you buy decent media then the performance characteristics are as near to pressed silver as it's ever going to get.

I have read several topics on CD-R allegedly breaking the physical hardware, but to be honest Dave, if that does happen then I won't lose any sleep over it because it will only cost a couple of hundred to replace it with something a bit more modern.

I use a apple macbook with roxio toast to burn them and TDK cd-r

iirc, TDK use various dyes.  IF you must use CDRs, I'd go for a better quality CDR, and keep the burn rate down.  Far too long since I've used Toast to remember how to set this, and its probably changed too much anyway


This may help the laser last a bit longer, but I'd try to stick to originals if you possibly can.

I generally use originals, but sometimes, especially on long trips, radio tuner won't function anymore due to low signal quality and i want to listen my own collection of songs.

Anyway thanks a lot for your advices.

Cheers

Other option is mp3 player, but no ideal way of linking it up, looking at FM adapters, cassette adapters if you have a tape player, or some aftermarket kits that 'steal' the speakers from the stereo.

[KillerWatt]

If you're going for the "FM Transmitter" route, look at the horrendously overpriced Maplins before you pay double what even they charge from the so called specialists for the same cheap chinese crap.