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[steve6367]

With rubber bushes, tighten bolts wheels loaded, then set up for full geo, THEN fit new tyres once all is well.

Poly the same but it's not necessary to tighten the bolts wheels loaded.


If bushes are suspect, they need examination.

That is what I did and all was well with the 'Evergreen' budget tyres on the from and GT's on the back - needed to replace the GT's and moved the Evergreens to the back with the new Runway's on the front and on a 400 mile drive the handling was all twitchy and really responding to the road. Tonight I have just swapped the tyres back around so the Evergreens are on the front again and things are much better on a short test.

However I would like to know what's going on as I only have a little wear left in the evergreens before I need to buy something!

I suspect I may need to get a second opinion as I can't really find any play on the front end - although I will try the top mount tests tomorrow. Is it fair to say that as they are from 2001 and done 125K just change them?

[05omegav6]

I would probably bin the shocks too tbh

It will require another set up, but if the setting is a bit more precise than 'in the green' you should appreciate the difference 

[steve6367]

So, front and rear shocks, top mounts and donut bushes + setup ?

[05omegav6]

Given the mileage it might be prudent

[steve6367]

Given the mileage it might be prudent

Umm....then I start to look at the rust that needs sorting in my other thread and wonder if its actually worth it 

Problem is I like the car 

[05omegav6]

Every Omega requires a certain amount of work somewhere between 80-120k miles, regardless of age or model...

Suspension rebuilding,
Aircon condensor,
Camcover gaskets,
HBV,
Autobox fluid/filter,
Door lock motors,
Exhaust.
Coil/dispack,
Thermostat,
Crank/cam sensor.

On cars covering high mileage, these are usually closer together, almost becoming 3/4 year service items...

On cars covering lower annual mileages, these items might seem to follow one from the next, but only need doing once a decade or so.

Geometry should almost be considered a bi annual event due to the state of the roads.

Rust is a bit different as issues go, each car is individual... you have treated it as a temporary measure... if you can weld, then when you pull the shocks, that would be a good time to plate the wheelarch side and treat the engine bay side as well. That way you can be certain that it has been held at bay...

These cars are mechanically predictable,  but as they physically age, corrosion does become a greater issue

[steve6367]

Every Omega requires a certain amount of work somewhere between 80-120k miles, regardless of age or model...

Suspension rebuilding, - Wishbones, 4 x track rods and Drop Links done
Aircon condensor,
Camcover gaskets,
HBV,
Autobox fluid/filter,
Door lock motors,
Exhaust.
Coil/dispack,
Thermostat,
Crank/cam sensor.

Well I've done a good amount of that, say probably just need to keep going!

[05omegav6]

That only leaves shocks and their mountings and potentially springs as and when they break... usually only the rear springs on these, and the suspension will be good for a while... expect to refurbish the wishbones track rods after about 20k...

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Well, my poor old girl before I got hold of her had to following...


Suspension rebuilding - nope
Aircon condensor - broke them removed
Camcover gaskets - nope
HBV  - nope
Autobox fluid/filter - nope, bought never fitted 
Door lock motors  - nope
Exhaust - nope
Coil/dispack - yes (only because leaking gaskets blew it  )
Thermostat  - nope
Crank/cam sensor - yes

The poor love! Since then...

Suspension rebuilding - yes
Aircon condensor - sourcing one
Camcover gaskets - yes
HBV  - got one
Autobox fluid/filter - got one
Door lock motors - working ok (for now!)
Exhaust - yes
Coil/dispack - yes
Thermostat - no
Crank/cam sensor - looking for 'just in case' spare

Plus a squillion other things. And she's survived without all that love for 170k!! 

Honestly, as taxi Al says, it may look like you're doing job after job - but all of a sudden she's (in theory, never say never) trouble-free once you've got them jobs out the way 

[05omegav6]

Thing is, unless you're spending north of £2000 on an Omega, all those will need doing sooner rather than later... the less you spend, the more you can expect to do...

There is no such thing as a cheap Omega, but a mechanically sorted one will be pretty trouble free for as long as you keep it... trouble is if you've just spent your last £500 buying one only to find the wishbones are shot, then it doesn't take long before you've spent another £300 on it, and that's just to be able to drive it... throw in a misfire code or two and a coolant leak and you'll be about ready to hang yourself 

[steve6367]

That only leaves shocks and their mountings and potentially springs as and when they break... usually only the rear springs on these, and the suspension will be good for a while... expect to refurbish the wishbones track rods after about 20k...

Yes I m getting on with it this morning, treating and staying the rear arch rust 

Is it Blistein B4 shocks recommended on standard ride height car?

Top mounts - VX only?

Steve

[05omegav6]

B4s from Balance Motorsport, top mounts... http://www.allgermanparts.co.uk/product/product?path=1219_1228&product_id=106713&group=100371

Rear donuts, either from Allgerman or Monkfish for poly ones... poly ones are significantly more expensive, but never wear out and help make the rear end far more secure if you're an enthusiastic driver, so horses for courses really

[steve6367]

Thank you - not sure I can be enthusiastic in the 2.2 , will save poly for the 2.5 

[Shackeng]

Remove the top nut and plate, there's still another nut underneath it so it won't ping off, and check for cracking and or undo flexing as you push down on that side... both should be obvious when you see them...

Also with the plate removed, have an assistant turn the wheel lock to lock, car on ground and engine on/off to suit... looking for torsional tearing...
 
Also, with the top plate resecured in place, hold the plate as an assistant turns the wheel lock to lock... car on ground (engine on or off... makes no odds). You're looking to FEEL any roughness/sticking in the support bearing as the strut turns. No roughness etc then bearing is ok, any hint then it probably needs replacing

The bearings can be repacked with grease if their just a bit rough, but as you need to remove them (and the top mount) to do this, you might as well just replace them both imho

Had the top plates off today, doesn't seem to be any undue flexing/or movement, and not rough when steering operated by "Debbie McGee". Strange though, as the NS securing nut under the plate was only finger tight.

[Shackeng]

Both, by hand, and by looking through from the rear of the wheel arch as your beautiful assistant that makes lovely biscuits moves the steering.

As you get to know them, both tests will give a guide as to how little play as acceptable, considering the weight of the car on it while in a bend. Etc...

Checked the idler for play today, can't see any, so it must just be just a geo required. Must be 3 years since the last one.