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[cam.in.head]

.hi .does anyone have the pinout /drawing/wire colours for the drivers side door loom wiring (though to the footwell )please.
i have a slow actuator on the drivers door .always works and does no funny things but comes up slow compared with the instant action of the other doors.
microswitch changed first
actuator changed
door connector checked and cleaned (was a bugger to undo!)
 just going to check the voltage going into it .
as i understand it the door motors are controlled by but not in series with the microswitches ,they are powered from the central locking ecu which does what it does depending on the  info received from the microswitches .

[cam.in.head]

another possibly better option is to do away with the connector completely and just bring extended leads out of the door and through to the footwell but thats for another day and after i confirm the presence or not of full voltage at the actuator

[cam.in.head]

so .  very strange and unconclusive .
ive checked the actuator is getting 12v when operated and it does . first opening of the day is quite slow but any lock/unlocks afterwards is quicker (this is before even starting the engine hence not a low voltage issue with the battery )
ive dismantled the new actuator and checked it internally .there is only 1 microswitch in it and its a 0.1 amp black db3 .(same as in the other switch which is the correct 02 part number as the old original ) so no second microswitch at all and all works ok so not all switches have the documented 10 amp white db2 microswitch ?
dismantled the motor and cleaned the commutator .reassembled and now works as intended even first go !    see how long for !
SO  as its not in the haynes manual (early cars ) where can i find the correct schematic for these later cars with wire colours etc(and connector pinouts ) as i want to fully undertand how this system works .

[cam.in.head]

no takers ?
i did send a couple of recent nessages to kevin wood about the actuators as well but im not 1000% sure the messaging is working as there are no records of the messages in my sent folder even thou i ticked the save messages option ?

[Doctor Gollum]

It's possible that the solenoids aren't receiving the required current.

Because it's not a Kia,.the wires should be the same colour from.the solenoid to the CL.ecu.

They probably run through the large plugs in the kick panel and it's not impossible for them to be slightly corroded. Perhaps not enough to break the circuit but enough to increase the resistance enough to cause a current drop.

Another consideration is if the drivers door check strap has been welded by a gorilla, they may have damaged the door harness on the body side as it's unprotected in the A pillar where the check strap bracket is located.

[cam.in.head]

drivers pillar connector was a bit iffy and i intend to replace it .the car section and the door section too eventually anyway . another member is going to sort me with a car section and theres a good door loom on ebay that looks very good pin condition wise .  i did send a question to kevin regarding the rebuild guide in the maintenence guides section .  i have a saab master unit with the two microswitches and questioned the resistor in the photos .mine doesnt have it ?? its rebuilt now ready to fit just wanted to confirm this resistor but either messaging in faulty or kevin hasnt been online ??
anyway j MAY have found an issue which may be the reason . my original seitch (which i replaced with same) is a 701 number not a 702 .this doesnt have the 10 amp microswitch in it .just the db3 0.1 amp one for position monitoring .the 10 amp white switch in ALL THE OMEGA ONES  has thix to cut the motor power at the rnd of its stroke . my drivers one has vern relying on the ecu timeout .