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[Essex_Andy]

rather idiot here wrongly routed the driver's side knock sensor wire

Half way back from watford and the engine managment light comes on

Found the problem while waiting for the AA.

Got home removed the sensor (what a rather awkward job that is!!! give me a cambelt anyday!)

Made good the broken wire with added shielding and heat shrink etc

AA turn up but cant get there equipment to talk to my car and turn off the engine management light

Dropped a pm to the boy

There I was admiring my handywork and enjoying a very quiet and smooth drive, enjoying how with very little pressure from the right foot the car now picks up so crisply compared to before....

arse squared

anyone else with the tools to turn off the engine management light?

[STMO123]

Mine is now kept well away from the pulleys with cable ties Andy. Never mind, we learn from our mistakes

[Essex_Andy]

The AA man did say something about 3 cycles for the car to learn that all is OK again and the light might go out.

Can someone explain this to me please.

Thanks.

[STMO123]

The AA man did say something about 3 cycles for the car to learn that all is OK again and the light might go out.

Can someone explain this to me please.

Thanks.

TB will no doubt explain it exactly, but there are a number of clean starts you need to make to clear any fault codes stored by the ECU. Not sure how many, but more than three.
Just to make life more confusing, when my knock sensor was on its way out, the EML would come on and go off as the lead connected/disconnected, and did not have to be reset when the new one went on.
As far as I know, the only light that needs resetting after a fault is the airbag light? As I said, TB is your man.

EDIT: I have a feeling you may still have a fault somewhere Andy

[Jimbob]

That sounds right, think 25 is nearer the number

[STMO123]

Also, just because the codes are stored in the ECU, the EML should not be lit, it should extinguish as soon as the current fault is cleared.

[Essex_Andy]

I did the paperclip test this morning and I got two faults

Now I dont know if these are stored codes or fresh codes

But they are

Knock sensor 1-3-5 bank

and crank sensor - iffy signal

I spoke to Automotive ECU and they said that when the knock sensor wire broke that may have caused the ECU to doubt the crank sensor signal?

[STMO123]

Possible, but I doubt it.

[Essex_Andy]

Well...just started the car and let it run until warm and the light has gone out

Fingers crossed it stays out

[Gwilym]

My EML turned itself off after I mended the Knock Sensor Wire (so I reckon you still have a fault)

My Airbag light also corrected itself after I replace the pretensioners (that did surprise me though as I thought I would need Tech 2)

[Essex_Andy]

Well been for a drive and all good...no hesitation as you sometimes get in 'limp-home' mode....no eml light.

[Marks DTM Calib]

LOl....fix the fault and the light will go out.....25 clean starts will clear it from the fault register.......

And the 3.0 cams make a noticeable difference?

[Essex_Andy]

The car certainly picks up better

Running very smooth and quiet

I noticed that the camwheel timing marks where quite a away out when I took the old belt off and cams out

I reckon the new plugs and leads and totally clean throttle body went a long way to improve performance too

[TheBoy]

Right, as said in PM, light will go out on next start after fault fixed.

Worried about the 'iffy crank one' - if it gave you a 19, replace the crank sensor. Ignore any BS that garage/AA/RAC gave you, a 19 on a v6 is the sign of impending doom and a trip on a tow truck. Change it before it lets you down, or as a minimum, carry a spare (or ideally both, change it and carry a spare, but thats paranoia after breaking down 700 miles from home...)