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[rad cap]

its a full rebuild top to tow, ready for the track, had it on rolling road got some stupid bhp out of it, think 500 bhp but can check with him .

he paid a lot for it and had a new crank made for it . spent a lot of cash on it ,

[Marks DTM Calib]

Rear toe approx +1.5 (as you would expect on a rear wheel drive)
Front toe approx +0.5 (surprised at this one!)

[Kevin Wood]

Rear toe approx +1.5 (as you would expect on a rear wheel drive)
Front toe approx +0.5 (surprised at this one!)

Positive toe is toe in, IIRC, so a little toe in is what I would expect. Half a degree is quite a bit for the fronts.

RWD cars tend to corner better with a little toe out at the front at the expense of straight line stability so you don't want toe out on a RWD road car generally (especially considering the Omega has been known to wander anyway). Toe in at the front generally gives greater straight line stability and worse turn-in.

Parallel to a little toe in (enough to ensure it doesn't go into toe out under braking!) is probably the best compromise and certainly what "feels" best to me on the road. YMMV.

If I had access to the kit I'd have a play and see what suits me best! Start with 10-20' of toe in and see how it drives.

Of course all the suspension angles interact, tyre choice comes into it and what suits one car won't suit another. :-/

Kevin

[Marks DTM Calib]

Should have said that those values are static in mm's on a 17 inch wheel.

So front toe in deg is about 0 (+0deg 5')

Rear toe is about 0 to! (+0deg 12')

[Kevin Wood]

Should have said that those values are static in mm's on a 17 inch wheel.

So front toe in deg is about 0 (+0deg 5')

Rear toe is about 0 to! (+0deg 12')

Ahh, Ok. That makes more sense. Of course, 1.5 degrees of toe out on the rear could have been "interesting" too.

Kevin