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[Andy B]

I found 2 pairs of thin nosed pliers were the best option.

Just try and grab hold of the wedged end of the pin and pull and twist. 

But you need to push the 'washer' and compress the spring to relieve the tension from behind the arrow head.

[Diamond Black Geezer]

But you need to push the 'washer' and compress the spring to relieve the tension from behind the arrow head.

Agreed, if it were a simple case of twisting a washer there wouldnt be an issue. The poor guys been at this so long he's missing his family, so fiddly is the job! 

I wont repeat my little 'howto' i posted earlier, but the trick is in neutralising the spring energy, to allow easy twisting of the washer. I like my method of holding everything 'inert' by nipping with pliers.

[Andy B]

But you need to push the 'washer' and compress the spring to relieve the tension from behind the arrow head.

Agreed, if it were a simple case of twisting a washer there wouldnt be an issue. The poor guys been at this so long he's missing his family, so fiddly is the job! 

I wont repeat my little 'howto' i posted earlier, but the trick is in neutralising the spring energy, to allow easy twisting of the washer. I like my method of holding everything 'inert' by nipping with pliers.

I've never had need to do an Omega's handbrake shoes, nor the 2 Senators before it, but I have done many a set of brake shoes over the years. I realise what has to be done, there's a small indent that the 'arrow head' sits in to hold it in place, which is why you need to depress spring & washer to relieve the tension from behind the 'arrow head' pin. It can be fiddley but it's really not that difficult. 

[V6 CDX-er]

It can be fiddley but it's really not that difficult. 

With all due respect Andy, that depends......

Mechanic mate came around this morning and spotted the problem almost straight away.

I'd bought some Pagid brake shoes from Euro Car parts (about £40 cheaper than VX ones). I'll try and explain this as best as I can, but please forgive me if it doesn't make much sense.

The centre plate that runs down the length of the brake shoe, (the one with all the holes in for locating springs, clips, pins, etc), was "off centre" by about 5mm. Not much, but enough to make getting the cap on the pin almost impossible. So, I'm not faced with two options. Either return the complete set of brake shoes, (both sides), to ECP, or get the Dremel out and cut a line (link?) out of the retaining spring. I chose the second option, and managed to get the cap located over the pin in about 5-6 attempts. Thank God for that! 

I'm now faced with a second problem    Either the shoes have too much lining material on them, or, (as I suspect), the lining material isn't attatched to the metal base of the shoe in a uniform fashion, meaning that at certain points, even with the shoe tension wound all the way off, my drums aren't able to fit over the shoes. I've just spent the last hour or so sanding a little off at a time with the emery cloth. Nearly there, but have popped inside for a bit of dinner.

Please bear in mind that I have already done the shoes on one side, so I'm aware that the shoes require a little bit of jiggling to get them to line up with the drum, but these things are miles out. I've already checked and double checked to make sure that none of the other springs, pins, brackets or adjusters are out of kilter, and everything else seems to be spot on.


The ironic part about all of this faffing around is that the old handbrake shoes wern't actually that bad. I could proberly of sort out my none existent handbrake by fitting new discs and having a play with the adjustment 'star' inside the drum, (the adjuster by the exhaust centre section was wound all the way in.

So, the fun just never stops. Man, I'll be so pleased to have finally got this bugger done.

Fingers crossed that cam cover gaskets, cambelt & tensioners, auto-box oil & filter and changing all the other fluids and filters isn't as much of a pain in the backside as this job has turned out to be.

[mrgreen]

if it were me i would whip those new shoes off and throw the old ones back on and adjust up and be done with it as at the end of the day it's just the handbrake or i would go crazy with an electric sander! i can't imagine these shoes getting much wear unless you drive around with the handbrake on or thaey get seized on a bit!

[JasonH]

My new Bosch brake shoes (£18 incl VAT) were a snug fit. I had to take a round file to the inside of the disc to remove every trace of a lip, wind the adjuster absolutely all the way in then push the disc on with my feet.

Initially I had full handbrake at 1 click!

Adjusted and bedded them in now and at last I have a handbrake that works.

[V6 CDX-er]

My new Bosch brake shoes (£18 incl VAT) were a snug fit. I had to take a round file to the inside of the disc to remove every trace of a lip, wind the adjuster absolutely all the way in then push the disc on with my feet.

Initially I had full handbrake at 1 click!

Adjusted and bedded them in now and at last I have a handbrake that works.

  'lol

Mines on now 

One side of the piston is seized though  The fun just never ends.

[amba]

The 2 pairs of long nose pliers worked for me .

1 set to compress the spring by pushing down on the washer either side of the cut-out..other pair managed to pull the arrow head through slot and then twist.

Needed several attempts as when released if arrow head not 180 degrees to cut out ,it didn,t hold tight but managed to do them all this way with a fair bit of bad language.

Agree that even with star adjuster fully wound home disc/drums was very tight getting back over shoes.I also now have a very good hand brake which holds firm on 3 clicks so worth the effort.

[Auto Addict]

I keep reading Marks 'How to', but haven't got round to it yet.

[Kevin Wood]

I keep reading Marks 'How to', but haven't got round to it yet.

My rear shoes still looked brand new after 105K and the mechanism was all working perfectly so I chucked a new disk on and left it be.

Kevin

[Andy B]

......

My rear shoes still looked brand new after 105K and the mechanism was all working perfectly so I chucked a new disk on and left it be.

Kevin

I'm not surpised, even when used, they only hold the car when already stopped.     

[V6 CDX-er]

And now one of the pistons in the off side rear caliper is stuck solid.

So if anyone on here has an off side rear caliper for sale, (vented discs), please let me know.

Cheers.



ps; would calipers from a pre-facelift Omega be exactly the same part?

[Andy B]

And now one of the pistons in the off side rear caliper is stuck solid.

So if anyone on here has an off side rear caliper for sale, (vented discs), please let me know.

Cheers.



ps; would calipers from a pre-facelift Omega be exactly the same part?

Earlier cars (facelift included) are solid discs at the back, whther the working bits are the same I don't know, but obviously your calipers are wider to allow for the thicker discs.
Maybe they are the same but with a sandwich plate between to two halves?  :-/  :-/

[Kevin Wood]

Earlier cars (facelift included) are solid discs at the back, whther the working bits are the same I don't know, but obviously your calipers are wider to allow for the thicker discs.
Maybe they are the same but with a sandwich plate between to two halves?  :-/  :-/

They do look to have a spacer between the two halves but I recall someone saying there are different piston diameters between the two setups, so best to source a direct replacement.

Kevin

[V6 CDX-er]

Earlier cars (facelift included) are solid discs at the back, whther the working bits are the same I don't know, but obviously your calipers are wider to allow for the thicker discs.
Maybe they are the same but with a sandwich plate between to two halves?  :-/  :-/

They do look to have a spacer between the two halves but I recall someone saying there are different piston diameters between the two setups, so best to source a direct replacement.

Kevin

Thanks fellas