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[Webby the Bear]

Hey up chaps. I meant to post an update last weekend but I've been stupidly busy.

However, all went really well except for one thing but will come to that in a moment.

Big thanks to Tunnie and Rob for help with the jacking up as well as anyone else who provided help. Ended up being a piece of p*ss. Stands and jeck seem pretty sturdy following use and I think I'd be quite happy to get under the car (although I'd want to jack up/use axel stands a few more times first lol). Chocked the back wheels with bricks and shoved the car wheel under the sill for extra protection.

I will post pics tonight when I get home but on first imspection I could easily see where everything was located. Someone had cut the pad sensor and tucked it under the bleed nipple cover and taped up the end; I presume this is what's done if you want to not bother with the sensors.

Ok, so first thing was the 13mm caliper bolts. I spent ages wondering why they were just turning  and then re-read the guide and got some suitable grips to hold the slide pins while I unscrewed them. Had I been doing the job on my ''good'' car I'd have took the pins out, took the old grease off and greased them up with silicone paste.

Then inspecting the pads. Both of them have about 1cm of pad left so I'm assuming they wouldn't need replacing if I was to actually come to replacing. I also assume those funky cross pins at the back of the pad are the ''squalers'' that let you know you need new pads?

Ok, so next on to pushing the caliper piston back in. One word BAAAAAAAARSTARD!!!! Again this must have taken a good 20 minutes even though it had only come out about 1cm. I've seen the tools for ''spinning''. Is there a tool for pushing too? Now at this point again I would have pinched the brake hose with vice grips (with protecting rubber) and undone the bleed valve but A.) I didn't have any vice grips and B.) the bleed valve had a 9mm nut... I only have 8 & 10 wrenches  Anyways I got it all back in with a big pair of pliers although it was hard work. I think it bottomed out but hopefully you guys can tell me when I upload the photos

Then the first big problem... the lower caliper mount bolt (18mm). OH MY FEKKING GOD. I swear some fekker must have welded it in. It took, and I swear I'm not exaggerating, 47 minutes to get that undone!!!! I hammered the wrench, put all my weight on it and for the last 20 minutes was standing on it!!!!  Eventually it undid and thank God the upper bolt was a bit easier.

Then the second big problem which unfortunately halted any further progress..... the allen bolt holding the disc to the hub. Someone has clearly stripped it as I couldn't open it with any allen keys.

So all in all I'd say a great success for my first time except I do really want to get that disc off. Any ideas on how to get out the stripped allen bolt? I've seen an impact tool which will lunch the screw out and you simply replace the screw. Anyone use this?

Apart from anti-seizing all bolts that would be that.

So guys as ever I am left with a couple of Q's following the job which I thought would be nice to discuss

1. As above is there a piston pusher-inner tool?
2. Also as above, is there a tool to get that stripped allen bolt out?
3. Following me putting everything back together there is a bit of movement from the caliper which goes side to side. It's very minimal movement but I didn't notice it when I started but I'm thinking that's possible as it was all rusted up. All bolts are tightened well.
4. I didn't see the pad spring/tab thingy. Does this have one?

Cheers all. Hope you like my updates

[Kevin Wood]

1. http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Disc-Brake-Caliper-Spreader/dp/B007I804IU/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1332851123&sr=1-3

Well worth investing in if this is a job you're going to be doing again. Frees up a hand and makes it less likely to slip and damage a seal.

2. An impact driver with a torx or allen socket might be good. Sometimes, the next size up torx tool will hammer in and afford some purchase on what's left of the head. Failing that, drill the head off and remove the disk. You'll probably find the rest of the bolt unscrews easily once the tension is off. Some plus gas helps too.

3. Probably the caliper moving on then pins, which is normal.

[Webby the Bear]

Sweeeeet, cheers mate. I'll definitely purchase that.

I will also try hammering in that bigger sized allen key. didnt want to do it in case i nackered something but i did think that

cheers mate

[Seth]

And if the old pads are sitting tight within the caliper, I use one of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-AK712-Disc-Brake-Pad-Puller-Tool-/400142138413?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D260968511927%26ps%3D54#ht_2204wt_1042

HTH

[mikesomega]

mine are same, allan bolt stuck. was going to take discs off to see if i could get them skimmed. i will have to drill it

[Kevin Wood]

It's worth mentioning that the countersunk bolt that holds the disk on is really only there to stop the disk falling off when you take the wheel off. Once the wheel is on the wheel nuts clamp the wheel, disk and hub together tightly. It doesn't, therefore, need to be any more than hand tight, and problems removing them are normally down to overtightening. When replacing it, a dab of grease on the thread will help it come out easily in future.

[mikesomega]

the prat b4 me did it up as tight as a virgins minge and it would not budge and i have now rounded off the allan bolt

[Webby the Bear]

I should have added that I also would have used brake cleaner on the mount (if I was to do the job for real) and that I pumped the brake pedal up.

Brake pedal still goes quite far down. do you erckon its worth actually getting some paste (silicone and antiseize) that would fix that as I know I did take some of the paste off one of the slide pins when i was inspecting it and it wasnt sliding as well when it went back in

[Zippy2012]

Copperslip works well on everything, small wipe on anything that moves or un does/tighten except the 2 13mm bolts on caliper-sliders u dont want them undoing when driving!! copper back of pads & piston face even if you got anti squeel shims copper them all up but not too much as you dont want to get any on pad faces..!!
a small chistle on the allen bolt hit it flat across middle making it into a flat drive for a large screwdriver or 13mm drill bit & drill head off! dont need it as wheel holds it all on anyway! 

[Webby the Bear]

Cheers all,

so copperslip is the stuff i need for the slide pins too?

[feeutfo]

Had similar issue recently with the disc bolt on another car. Impact driver managed to remove it, even though to look at the damaged bolt you'd think it would have to be drilled off.

Impressed I was. It even had a centre punch mark where the previous donkey had agro removing it. Then promptly did it up tight again on re fitting. The donkey.

Impact driver. Recommended IMO.

[feeutfo]

Don't start with copper slip btw. FFS!

[Kevin Wood]

Cheers all,

so copperslip is the stuff i need for the slide pins too?

I would use a normal lithium grease, TBH. The particles of copper might well cause the pins to seize.

Copperslip has a tendency to dry out, I find, so I'd only use it on the backs of pads. Even then, normal grease will work as well.

[Webby the Bear]

Cheers all,

so copperslip is the stuff i need for the slide pins too?

I would use a normal lithium grease, TBH. The particles of copper might well cause the pins to seize.

Copperslip has a tendency to dry out, I find, so I'd only use it on the backs of pads. Even then, normal grease will work as well.

That's why it was suggested to use silicone on the slide pins (as it doesn't dry out) and antiseize on the pads, screws etc.

[feeutfo]

Use proper heat resistant lithium grease on slider pins. Do not use copper slip.

Shouldn't need attention unless seized or boot split though.

Copper slip stopping brake squeal is a mith. Therefor it has no place on braking systems. Ever!

Now, wheres that Andy B