Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Kevin Wood]

Firstly, it'll need a couple of pumps on the pedal to pump the pistons out to meet the pads, moreso if worn pads have been refitted.

The pedal doesn't completely sort itself out until the car's done a few miles and the brakes have been heat cycled, IME.

If the fluid hasn't been changed within the last 2 years, or the fluid in the reservoir is dark coloured or has black deposits in it, it's worth changing the fluid anyway, but old fluid wouldn't be my first guess as a cause of a long pedal after work carried out, except when it occurs with a bit of heat in the system.

There are a couple of types of "long pedal". Try to identify which one you have:

1) Pedal travels down further than normal but then firms up to "normal" resistance, just lower than normal.
2) Pedal travels down further than normal and is just spongey, never really firms up.
3) Pedal "creeps" down when pressed for a few seconds, recovers after a few quick pumps.

1 is caused by pads that haven't bedded in yet following removal or replacement, can also be caused by a faulty self-adjuster (not fitted on the omega) or a failed bearing or warped disk causing the pads to "stand off". May be caused by one circuit having failed completely, but there'll be an obvious catastrophic leak then. If you consider the brakes are safe to drive on, it's worth seeing if it improves once the pads have bedded in.

2 is generally caused by a system that has air in it and needs bleeding or possibly a rubber pipe that's perished and bulging under pressure. If it happens suddenly when the brakes are hot, brake fluid contaminated with water or just plain old.

3 is generally caused by a poor seal somewhere in the system. If it's a slave cylinder or pipe connection a leak will probably be evident, although you might need to peer under the rubber dust cover to see it on a brake caliper. It can also be caused by a piston seal in the master cylinder in which case there'll be no leakage. On an Omega the master cylinder seals have been known to invert if a bleed nipple is not opened prior to winding pack the caliper pistons, giving similar symptoms.

[Webby the Bear]

Cheers guys,

thanks Kev.... defo no. 2 

i've ot my college interview/advice session tomorrow at 9am..... afterwards going to employ the services of mummy webb for the brake bleed 

[Webby the Bear]

Hi guys,

Once again I'd like to point out I'm not bumping this thread.... just i have a question (sorry)

i didnt have time to do the rear brakes yesterday so instead i decided to re-practise front pads and hopefully get this bleeding disc off. all went great and i have to say that piston spreader worked beautifully!!! however i still cant get this disc off. i tried getting a slightly oversized allen in there. nope. hamered a screw driver in. it started to move the disc but then lost grip and just span.

what bit can i get for my drill for this? and what angle should i comje in at? i.e. straight through the middle or from the sides? its coming out tomorrow whether it likes it or not even if i have to get nasty with it!!!!!

[Andy B]

.....
what bit can i get for my drill for this? and what angle should i comje in at? i.e. straight through the middle or from the sides? its coming out tomorrow whether it likes it or not even if i have to get nasty with it!!!!!

It's held with a M6 thread, so if you use a 6mm drill through the middle of where your allen key should've gone & drill carefully until you JUST drill the head off. There should then still be enough thread sticking out of the hub for you to get a decent set of molegrips/visegrips on. 

[Webby the Bear]

.....
what bit can i get for my drill for this? and what angle should i comje in at? i.e. straight through the middle or from the sides? its coming out tomorrow whether it likes it or not even if i have to get nasty with it!!!!!

It's held with a M6 thread, so if you use a 6mm drill through the middle of where your allen key should've gone & drill carefully until you JUST drill the head off. There should then still be enough thread sticking out of the hub for you to get a decent set of molegrips/visegrips on. 

B E A Youtiful!!!! Cheers Andy B..... Metal bit i presume?

[Elite Pete]

Try a punch and hammer

[Webby the Bear]

Try a punch and hammer

i want to get nasty with it. im going to break out my hammer drill

[Lazydocker]

Try a punch and hammer

i want to get nasty with it. im going to break out my hammer drill

Don't use a hammer drill on metal Low speed is best

[Webby the Bear]

Try a punch and hammer

i want to get nasty with it. im going to break out my hammer drill

Don't use a hammer drill on metal Low speed is best

ok mate ill use the cordless. but if it dont go well i get a feeling ill be stressing and ripping it to pieces lol

[Andy B]

........ Metal bit i presume?

yes, a normal HSS (high speed steel) drill 

Try Pete's method first though. Centre pop at the side of the head & try to punch it undone. 

[Webby the Bear]

Right, went home after work.

drilled this disc allan bolt. did it make a difference? nope 

im not even fekin kidding tools went flying and i stormed away from the car in a huff 

dont know where to go from here. anyone in the northampton locality want to come up and show me how to get this fekking thing off? obviously ill cover your costs 

[omega3000]

Right, went home after work.

drilled this disc allan bolt. did it make a difference? nope 

im not even fekin kidding tools went flying and i stormed away from the car in a huff

dont know where to go from here. anyone in the northampton locality want to come up and show me how to get this fekking thing off? obviously ill cover your costs 

Did you try the hammer and punch , thats what i end up using ...didnt help as someone had used locktight on em before 

[Webby the Bear]

Right, went home after work.

drilled this disc allan bolt. did it make a difference? nope 

im not even fekin kidding tools went flying and i stormed away from the car in a huff

dont know where to go from here. anyone in the northampton locality want to come up and show me how to get this fekking thing off? obviously ill cover your costs 

Did you try the hammer and punch , thats what i end up using ...didnt help as someone had used locktight on em before 

lol seriously if you were my neighbour lookin out your window at the time hahaha i started chucking sockets, torx screws and ive pretty much launched the whole little red tub of bits somewhere irretreivable 

no i didnt but what difference is a hammer and hand tool going to make if i cant get a drill to do the job 

[omega3000]

Right, went home after work.

drilled this disc allan bolt. did it make a difference? nope 

im not even fekin kidding tools went flying and i stormed away from the car in a huff

dont know where to go from here. anyone in the northampton locality want to come up and show me how to get this fekking thing off? obviously ill cover your costs 

Did you try the hammer and punch , thats what i end up using ...didnt help as someone had used locktight on em before 

lol seriously if you were my neighbour lookin out your window at the time hahaha i started chucking sockets, torx screws and ive pretty much launched the whole little red tub of bits somewhere irretreivable 

no i didnt but what difference is a hammer and hand tool going to make if i cant get a drill to do the job 

 

I know mine were a pita to get undone , but i tap tapped at it for quite some time till it moved ...soaked it overnight in release agent which helped 

[TheBoy]

anyone in the northampton locality want to come up and show me how to get this fekking thing off? obviously ill cover your costs 

Until these retarded quacks can repair me, I'm not available 

Beginning to piss me off, sat around with my thumbs up my arse