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[amba]

Is the oil cooler/cooler plate and nuts available from VX as single items ?

I am now convinced that I have traced the source of my coolant  leak to the oil cooler plate.Now as this will require removing to reseal,reading several previous posts on this subject it seems that the large 30mm nuts have a habit of causing the threads to get damaged during removal...or is it the banjo bolts shear off in the oil cooler ?

Either way want to ensure I have all parts available before pulling it apart

[JamesV6CDX]

I'm not sure about the availability, but can confirm that one of the nuts is notorious for shearing

There is a small O ring on the oil cooler directly under the plate, on the entry and exit point.

May just be a good opportunity to do the whole cooler?

[amba]

Thanks James.

Was hoping to keep the costs abit under control especially as the "old girl" has a fair few miles on her now.Have got hollow bolts and seals from a previous purchase so just ordered sealant only..but am now starting to think it might be safer to get the entire oil cooler kit then its done.

Anybody got one kicking around that they want shot of ?

[tunnie]

I'm not sure about the availability, but can confirm that one of the nuts is notorious for shearing

There is a small O ring on the oil cooler directly under the plate, on the entry and exit point.

May just be a good opportunity to do the whole cooler?

Banjo bolt 

[JamesV6CDX]

I'm not sure about the availability, but can confirm that one of the nuts is notorious for shearing

There is a small O ring on the oil cooler directly under the plate, on the entry and exit point.

May just be a good opportunity to do the whole cooler?

Banjo bolt 

No, the banjo bolts are normally OK... it's the thin 30mm nuts that shear...

[Mikes1670]

I've just removed mine today - came out in one piece - no damage at all. I gave the banjo bolts and 30mm nuts a good dowsing with plus gas release spray and let it soak in overnight. The difficult bit was removing my oil filter cartridge housing to get at the oil cooler pipes connections at the oil filter end (you will need a 19mm crows foot socket piece as they are confined to say the least). I took the nearside wheel off to aid access and removed the crankshaft sensor for the same reason - maintenance guide on here is excellent for this. My water leak was also coming from the oil cooler - the sealant gasket had failed. I've just ordered the gasket sealant, cooler seals (2) and banjo seals (4) from the stealers today (special order) but not expensive.

[amba]

Thanks for extra info.

Good to hear the large 30mm nuts undo ok..my plan was to remove the banjo bolts then undo the star bolts and remove the plate with the oil cooler in 1 piece that way hopefully it is just a matter of cleaning all surfaces up,applying the "goooo" and then replacing it back together.

[JamesV6CDX]

Good to hear the large 30mm nuts undo ok

Don't say I didn't warn you 

my plan was to remove the banjo bolts then undo the star bolts and remove the plate with the oil cooler in 1 piece

I believe that's only achievable when the cylinder heads are outta the way..

[kcl]

Thanks for extra info.

Good to hear the large 30mm nuts undo ok..my plan was to remove the banjo bolts then undo the star bolts and remove the plate with the oil cooler in 1 piece that way hopefully it is just a matter of cleaning all surfaces up,applying the "goooo" and then replacing it back together.

The two cars I have played with have sheared the 30mm nut, rear one on both. Banjos will not be a problem as they have washers between the banjo and are for oil. Poor design IMHO, seen several heat exchangers (for hydraulics though) with a lot smarter design. And, it also makes me wonder, why haven't they made it one piece, the cooler and plate together   

[amba]

So it,s not possible to reseal the plate already fitted to the cooler and then fit it back into the well in 1 piece.( as it shows in the Hatnes book) as there is not enough space ?

Picture in book clearly shows cooler fitted to plate being refitted after sealant applied..and with heads in place ..although we know that book lies !!

Oil cooler needs to be fitted into well..plate sealant applied..rubber O ring seals fitted to theraded sections of cooler then gently fit plate onto block with threaded sections through plate..fit large brass nuts finger tight then do up star bolts around plate..last job then do up large brass nuts.  Assume I now have correct sequence

[Mikes1670]

Sounds right to me - the oil cooler has to be inserted first complete with new seals in the seats at base of threads on the cooler. The cover plate has to be angled to get it in between the two cylinder heads (with sealant applied) - then finger tight the 30mm nuts - then tighten the cover plate fixings screws and torque up - then torque up the 30mm nuts - then reconnect the oil pipes at both ends (new seals on the cooler banjo fittings (4-off) - finger tight then torque up accordingly.

[amba]

Question now is will the 30mm large nuts come off without damaging the threads and will it all go back ...or do I bite the bullet and spend best part of £120 on new cooler and plate ?

Don,t expect anybody has a new oil cooler kit they bought and never used,and wants to part with for some £££,s ??

[Mikes1670]

I reckon its 50/50, but best of luck - don't forget the release spray, use a 30mm socket and apply just enough turning force until you feel them starting to move - let us know how it goes.

[Darth Loo-knee]

Out of all the oil cooler plates I have removed only two of the threads have been stripped.

[Marks DTM Calib]

I would say I am on about 40-50% have stripped when removed and penetrating spray made little difference.

I do give the threads a wipe of grease when re-fitting to aid future removal (I suspect its a galvanic corrosion issue)