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Author Topic: conversion to spin on filter  (Read 1444 times)

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robson

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conversion to spin on filter
« on: 03 June 2012, 04:54:30 »

I have looked at the maintenance guide on this subject. From looking at the picture this had the same problem that I have a very slow oil leak in that area I have twice changed the crankshaft sensor seal but leak is still evident. I have the parts for a change to spin on but an earlier post said that the adaptor has a hexagon bore. mine is a clean round bore. I assume that the adaptor is just fitted finger tight with the lock seal applied .
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jonny2112

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Re: conversion to spin on filter
« Reply #1 on: 03 June 2012, 06:48:34 »

Mmmm. When I looked at it I thought it had the internal shape to allow it to be tightened. Not sure I'd be happy with finger tight, but if that's how the adaptor is, then maybe that's sufficient?
Someone who has done it already will perhaps be able to enlighten .....
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Nick W

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Re: conversion to spin on filter
« Reply #2 on: 03 June 2012, 09:43:19 »

The two I bought  a month ago are just threaded tube.
Add a little threadlock and screw it in as tight as you can.
After all, the filter is only fitted handtight against a rubber seal, so it doesn't need to be any more than that
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robson

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Re: conversion to spin on filter
« Reply #3 on: 03 June 2012, 10:04:10 »

Thanks Nick thats what I thought
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Big_Al

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Re: conversion to spin on filter
« Reply #4 on: 03 June 2012, 11:14:43 »

Not done one of these myself , although my Mig has one fitted.  Thinking hand tight may be risky :-\ :-\ :-\

Can you not lock 2 nuts  together on the filter part of the thread (if enough room)  & wind it in with a spanner. Presume it is only threaded a certain depth & insert will come to a stop.

Someone who has actually done one may be of more assistance  :-\ :-\
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robson

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Re: conversion to spin on filter
« Reply #5 on: 03 June 2012, 14:27:10 »

I assume that the canister has a rubber  seal at the block end. Would it be better to replace this seal if I have a leak.  Is there any advantage of keeping the canister type filter rather than replacing with spin on,
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SMD

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Re: conversion to spin on filter
« Reply #6 on: 03 June 2012, 14:45:37 »

1. Wind the nipple into the oil filter.

2. Apply loctite/threadlock on the threads (that go into the block).

3. Wind in hand tight.

Thats all there is to it. This is how mine was converted and no issues 500 miles later. Cannister type filters can jam sometimes, even if torqued correctly. The advantages of keeping the cannister is slightly longer service intervals. I would just convert it personally, saves hassle in future. Just search the forum for "oil filter", you'll see what I mean.

I'm sure AndyB will be along to tell you if it aint broke, dont fix it.  ;D



 

« Last Edit: 03 June 2012, 14:50:39 by SMD »
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Andy B

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Re: conversion to spin on filter
« Reply #7 on: 03 June 2012, 15:39:18 »

......

I'm sure AndyB will be along to tell you if it aint broke, dont fix it.  ;D

Correct!  ;) ;) ;)
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jonny2112

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Re: conversion to spin on filter
« Reply #8 on: 03 June 2012, 21:27:04 »

 ;D ;D ;D

I did my first canister change very recently and tbh there were no issues. Having said that, the car was on a ramp at the time, which made access much easier. I changed my spin on filters on the drive and I imagine the canister may prove a little bit more difficult under these conditions. Maybe not, but it remains to be seen  ::)
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