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[05omegav6]

Used to use summat called plastic weld

Humbrol and Revell both sell polystyrene cement in a liquid for should be easily available at any toy shop

[MaxV6]

http://www.wonderlandmodels.com/products/humbrol-liquid-poly-28ml/

[bored bigyin54]

Used to use summat called plastic weld

Humbrol and Revell both sell polystyrene cement in a liquid for should be easily available at any toy shop

if you look in news agents some stock that

[CaptainZok]

http://www.wonderlandmodels.com/products/humbrol-liquid-poly-28ml/

That's the stuff Max.

[blackviper90210]

I use this company for my model kit equipment:

http://www.modelzone.co.uk/

Not sure if any outlets are near you?



HTH's

[martin42]

milton keynes is the nearest and im there every day 

[blackviper90210]

MK was a great place in the 70's & 80's.....

[Entwood]

MK was great place before roundabouts were invented, and it changed from a village to a "new town" ... 

[blackviper90210]

MK was great place before roundabouts were invented, and it changed from a village to a "new town" ... 

Don't forget the concrete cows 

[Nick W]

Does anyone know what substitute glue i can use on plastic model kits , i have a 1967 ford mustang to build ...been looking round most shops and cant find a suitable glue and no modeling shops near either . Super glue wont work or general purpose glue 

Why won't superglue work? I haven't used anything else for years. Although I now have to buy it, rather than take it off the shelf at work, it's still the way to go. Get both thick, and runny glues(there are several grades in between as well), plus the activator. A light dusting of activator on one part, and a tiny smear of glue on the other, and it's as permanently stuck together as matters on a model. It's quick, cheap and easy. You can't use it on clear parts as it fogs them badly, but the traditional cement is no different.
Use a coating of thick glue, and a spritz of activator as filler. It goes off instantly, and sands similarly to the styrene of the kit. I've a 1/24 slotcar of a Rolls that has superglue filler 2mm thick in places(it was a very poor moulding and badly distorted), and that car hasn't suffered from several 20mph crashes!

[omega3000]

Does anyone know what substitute glue i can use on plastic model kits , i have a 1967 ford mustang to build ...been looking round most shops and cant find a suitable glue and no modeling shops near either . Super glue wont work or general purpose glue 

Why won't superglue work? I haven't used anything else for years. Although I now have to buy it, rather than take it off the shelf at work, it's still the way to go. Get both thick, and runny glues(there are several grades in between as well), plus the activator. A light dusting of activator on one part, and a tiny smear of glue on the other, and it's as permanently stuck together as matters on a model. It's quick, cheap and easy. You can't use it on clear parts as it fogs them badly, but the traditional cement is no different.
Use a coating of thick glue, and a spritz of activator as filler. It goes off instantly, and sands similarly to the styrene of the kit. I've a 1/24 slotcar of a Rolls that has superglue filler 2mm thick in places(it was a very poor moulding and badly distorted), and that car hasn't suffered from several 20mph crashes!

Its not the named super glue brand im using so maybe thats the problem ? Cheapo pattern asda super glue but i glued a test piece and left it to dry for about an hour and it just prised apart easily . I thought super glue was an instant bond but its definatley not in this case ... similar for the polypipe as i thought that was ok but it wont bond , maybe i need the proper poly cement 

[Nick W]

Buy 'superglue' from a trade supplier. It will be better and cheaper. You need the activator, it's not optional. Or scrounge it from uPVC window fitters, it's what all the internal trims are stuck on with. I used to buy 1000 big bottles at a time!

[omega3000]

Buy 'superglue' from a trade supplier. It will be better and cheaper. You need the activator, it's not optional. Or scrounge it from uPVC window fitters, it's what all the internal trims are stuck on with. I used to buy 1000 big bottles at a time!

Thanks for that i will see what i can find and get on with the mustang re-build  a lot of parts in this one that will keep me busy for a while ....i think ill be visiting the proper model shop as i need some paints , i bet they are not cheap nowadays . Only need red and black though 

[Nick W]

Thanks for that i will see what i can find and get on with the mustang re-build  a lot of parts in this one that will keep me busy for a while ....i think ill be visiting the proper model shop as i need some paints , i bet they are not cheap nowadays . Only need red and black though 

In the same vein, model enamel(like Humbrol) takes ages to go off, and is very difficult to get a decent finish. It's OK for small parts, and detailing but dreadful for bodies.
To do those, get a couple of cans of grey primer from your local pound shop. That's acrylic, and if you use a couple of very light coats first it gives a sealing effect on the plastic. Then you can swap to cellulose aerosols from your favourite motorist shop without having to worry about the solvents melting your project. They give a much better finish, in far less time, and probably less cost. They're the 'right' colours for painting car models. Plus, if you're careful, you can even 'mop' them just like a car paint job, although a polishing bob on a slow Dremel is used.

[omega3000]

Found some glue , didnt manage to get to the model shop but used bostic for soft plastics .. in the mustang kit i have a choice of engines to fit , old school with carbs or new with supercharger  going old school as i painted the engine block black and have chrome filters and add ons to neatly position in the engine bay . Body looks good with the gloss black enamel i found in the shed . Onto the suspension tomorrow , if only it was the real thing , still taking the time to detail it as if it was