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[allday]

My recently purchased 1998 2.5 elite Auto Saloon has started to overheat. For the last couple of days after warming up the temp gauge was steady at 95 until today. When I used the kickdown and drove upto 70mph from 20mph. I noticed some time later that the temp gauge had creeped upto 100. It then went into the red. I got home and switched it off. About 2 hours later I went back out in the car. It was still warm. When driving I kicked down the gearbox when doing about 25mph upto 40mph. The temp gauge then went into red and the temp light came on soon after. I have checked the fuse next to the battery and those in the fusebox and all seems well. The fan does kick in. The oil, coolant level and condition looks fine. Any ideas? As it drove fine for 50 miles. Then today the temp starts playing up after I accelerated foot to floor.

[noel]

partially blocked radiator maybe

[cem_devecioglu]

omega engines (pre-facelift, miniface lift) work hot and they can work around 100 celcius without problems when hammered.. I have seen 100+ several times on a 40 celcius day when climbing mountains .. but,  in UK on a normal road its unexpected and more important ,redline means there is serious a problem..
 
check your thermostat .. hold the hose and feel the coolant rush when the car starts to heat.. if it warms up slowly thermostat donald..
 
second check : is it loosing some coolant .. if yes there are extra checks you must perform..

[omega3000]

My recently purchased 1998 2.5 elite Auto Saloon has started to overheat. For the last couple of days after warming up the temp gauge was steady at 95 until today. When I used the kickdown and drove upto 70mph from 20mph. I noticed some time later that the temp gauge had creeped upto 100. It then went into the red. I got home and switched it off. About 2 hours later I went back out in the car. It was still warm. When driving I kicked down the gearbox when doing about 25mph upto 40mph. The temp gauge then went into red and the temp light came on soon after. I have checked the fuse next to the battery and those in the fusebox and all seems well. The fan does kick in. The oil, coolant level and condition looks fine. Any ideas? As it drove fine for 50 miles. Then today the temp starts playing up after I accelerated foot to floor.

Had very similar a while back , replaced many parts but the outcome was a partially blocked radiator which made the car overheat when accelerating hard 

[allday]

Thanks guys. What would I need to do, to flush the radiator. Or would I better off getting a mechanic to do it. I dont have access to a hose to squirt into the radiator. What should I pay do you think?

[omega3000]

Thanks guys. What would I need to do, to flush the radiator. Or would I better off getting a mechanic to do it. I dont have access to a hose to squirt into the radiator. What should I pay do you think?

Maybe a member on here could help if you post your location , i took my radiator off to flush and then back flush but that didnt help as the rad was blocked solid in places , probably caused by use of radweld or similar in the past .

[allday]

Thanks guys. What would I need to do, to flush the radiator. Or would I better off getting a mechanic to do it. I dont have access to a hose to squirt into the radiator. What should I pay do you think?

Maybe a member on here could help if you post your location , i took my radiator off to flush and then back flush but that didnt help as the rad was blocked solid in places , probably caused by use of radweld or similar in the past .

So you recommend that I fit a new rad? I'm near to Sandhurst Berkshire.

[omega3000]

By all means flush it out , its worth a try and might solve it . Rads are about £100 iirc , shouldnt take a garage no more than an hour to replace if you decide to do that . Someone else could advise what else you could do but just saying what happend to mine was very similar to whats happening to yours ...cheapest first option is replace the rubber seal on the header tank cap or cap as well in case its letting in air then next cheapest option is replace header tank if its suspect cracked . I went down many routes of elimination part by part until i almost gave up , then a kind member on here helped me out and since then ive had no issues 

[Andy H]

By all means flush it out , its worth a try and might solve it . Rads are about £100 iirc , shouldnt take a garage no more than an hour to replace if you decide to do that . Someone else could advise what else you could do but just saying what happend to mine was very similar to whats happening to yours ...cheapest first option is replace the rubber seal on the header tank cap or cap as well in case its letting in air then next cheapest option is replace header tank if its suspect cracked . I went down many routes of elimination part by part until i almost gave up , then a kind member on here helped me out and since then ive had no issues 

If the OP's car has suffered an oil cooler failure at some stage the radiator may be fouled with oil emulsion. Flushing with a non-foaming detergent should fix it.

My experience has been with a Carlton that had a leaking cooling system and had been topped up with tap water. Descaler strong enough to shift the scale is also strong enough to attack aluminium  so I eventually gave in and fitted a new radiator (which worked like a charm ).

My radiator seems to be shedding its cooling fins so I imagine I will need to replace it soon . Best price I have found so far is about £200 on trade club, I would be pleased to find a source at £100.

[allday]

I've seen new rads for about £50 on ebay.

[cem_devecioglu]

I've seen new rads for about £50 on ebay.

if its not leaking no need to change.. use some kitchen lime dissolvers wait 20 minutes and flush it..
 
members in your area may help

[dejbear]

Had this before sounds like water pump genuine pump has a plastic impeller which breaks up!

[Elite Pete]

Remove the rad, lie it flat and fill it with Fernox and boiling water then leave it overnight. Give it a good flushing the next day with lots of cold water and then pressure wash from the fins from back to front to remove any obstructions

[omega3000]

By all means flush it out , its worth a try and might solve it . Rads are about £100 iirc , shouldnt take a garage no more than an hour to replace if you decide to do that . Someone else could advise what else you could do but just saying what happend to mine was very similar to whats happening to yours ...cheapest first option is replace the rubber seal on the header tank cap or cap as well in case its letting in air then next cheapest option is replace header tank if its suspect cracked . I went down many routes of elimination part by part until i almost gave up , then a kind member on here helped me out and since then ive had no issues 

If the OP's car has suffered an oil cooler failure at some stage the radiator may be fouled with oil emulsion. Flushing with a non-foaming detergent should fix it.

My experience has been with a Carlton that had a leaking cooling system and had been topped up with tap water. Descaler strong enough to shift the scale is also strong enough to attack aluminium  so I eventually gave in and fitted a new radiator (which worked like a charm ).

My radiator seems to be shedding its cooling fins so I imagine I will need to replace it soon . Best price I have found so far is about £200 on trade club, I would be pleased to find a source at £100.

I stand corrected , im thinking of the the condenser rad 

[allday]

I've been quoted £531 to change the cam belt, idlers, tensioners and waterpump. I still have two other quotes I'm waiting on.