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[Darth Loo-knee]

Since owning my omega 3.0 it has always idled at an indicated 500 revs,however since having the cam cover gaskets changed it stalls at this engine speed!Using the not very scientific method of watching the dashboard clock the engine will run for a maximum of 4 mins at 500 revs and then stall.The engine will restart instantly and then either stall straight away or  idle for up to the 4 min maximum!Tests? so far are to pinch off the pipe going into the front of the idle control valve,this affects the revs during the time the engine is warming up but once at 500 revs it makes no difference.Pulling the pipe from the front of the icv with the engine running produces an inrush of air[so a vacuum is present when all is connected]and the engine stalling immediately.The electrical plug has been removed from the rear of the icv and shows power is getting to it.So am I looking at an icv which is kaput or am I staring down the barrel of something more serious?If I keep the revs at about 650 or so the engine will run for ever and a day,but of course you can't manually alter the idle speed with a screw or anything.The car is a w reg,year 2000 facelift model[in case it makes a difference]

 so far are to pinch off the pipe going into the front of the idle control valve,this affects the revs during the time the engine is warming up but once at 500 revs it makes no difference.

If you pinch this pipe or kink it, the car should stall. If the car does not you have an air leak somewhere.

[feeutfo]

No loss  of power/stalling when  it's above idle.While sat on the drive in park/neutral if I keep the revs upp at about 650 or so it'll run all day,plant the throttle and it'll sing to the redline without hesitation.Out on the road it'll fly like a bird,until coming to a road junction/traffic lights etc.,when it'll just die but at least it'll restart instantly si I'm not a mobile road block!To try checking for air leak I've sprayed a load of WD40 at it with the engine running as this usually alters the revs,but in this case it made no difference.

From that I would say defo icv, with a possible air leak.

The spray trick is a carb cleaner idea, as it's flammable, and would affect tick over if it got into the intake. I have had better results by listening and fiddling with/pinching  rubber pipes, to listen for hissing or affecting engine speed with engine running tbh.

Primary causes of air leaks aside from miss fitting parts, is IME...
gromit between icv and plenum.
Breather system. Black Eco tec bit on top of plenum and associated pipe work at the back, look for perished or splits ends on the pipes. Push down on the black plastic Eco tech parts and see if any noise change.
Large vacume pipe to brake servo rubbed through on the ac pipe, and smaller associated pipes from it disconnected.

So worth a mooch around and a few more cleaning sessions with the icv IMO.

[BazaJT]

Good news[I hope!].Just been out to fit new wiper blades,took opportunity to remove scuttle for clearance to back of engine,didn't have aclue what I was at,but pulled off re-attached all pipes that looked relevant,took apart any electrical plugs which may not have been making proper contact,and pushed 'em back together.Started car and it's run for above 1/2hr purring like a kitten, rock steady idle,so hopefully job sorted! I don't suppose I shall ever know if it was this or all the cleaner I've chucked down the icv that's worked,but I'm one happy bunny again!Tu.hanks to all for your input,couldn't have done it without yo

[BazaJT]

Story so far.Paid mechanic to replace cam cover gaskets[mistake?]first attempt saw all ok other than near side gasket still leaked!but engine ran o.k.]second attempt  removed scuttle panel for better access,result oil leaks cured,but now engine won't run right!I've checked for air leaks,can't see/hear feel any,sprayed wd40 all over this makes no difference.Pinch pipe which goes into front of icv and engine stalls,so I assume no air leaks.bought and fitted brand new icv this makes no difference.Engine will now tick over whilst sat in park,when cooling fans start car nearly stalls but then revs pick up to keep it running.However put car in gear and engine stalls,it's as though something is not compensating for extra drag.Have I bought a duff icv[although brand new]?Or am I now looking elsewhere for the problem?Luckily the Jag xj6 continues to be uber reliable,so am not devoid of transport.

[tunnie]

Story so far.Paid mechanic to replace cam cover gaskets[mistake?]first attempt saw all ok other than near side gasket still leaked!but engine ran o.k.]second attempt  removed scuttle panel for better access,result oil leaks cured,but now engine won't run right!

Did you pay the mechanic for the second attempt? Take it back!

[BazaJT]

No mechanic did second attempt free,since then he's been promising to have another look and sort it but something always "comes up" to delay this again and again etc.difficulty is of course getting to him other than by phone due to my own work commitments!

[RobG]

Story so far.Paid mechanic to replace cam cover gaskets[mistake?]first attempt saw all ok other than near side gasket still leaked!but engine ran o.k.]second attempt  removed scuttle panel for better access,result oil leaks cured,but now engine won't run right!I've checked for air leaks,can't see/hear feel any,sprayed wd40 all over this makes no difference.Pinch pipe which goes into front of icv and engine stalls,so I assume no air leaks.bought and fitted brand new icv this makes no difference.Engine will now tick over whilst sat in park,when cooling fans start car nearly stalls but then revs pick up to keep it running.However put car in gear and engine stalls,it's as though something is not compensating for extra drag.Have I bought a duff icv[although brand new]?Or am I now looking elsewhere for the problem?Luckily the Jag xj6 continues to be uber reliable,so am not devoid of transport.

Have you tried disconnecting MAF. Is the EML on?

[BazaJT]

Which is the MAF sensor?there seems to be an awful lot of electric plugs under the bonnet!EML light goes out along with all other warning lights as soon as engine starts.Other than this stalling problem car runs beautifully.

[RobG]

[BazaJT]

O.K.,now know which MAF sensor is[thanks for picture]if it's dodgy what sort of reaction will I get?The problem has only arisen since the second go at changing the cam cover gasket on n/s bank,would this relate in any way to the MAF,or would this have been a separate issue just waiting to happen?

[BazaJT]

Could it be something to do with that multi-ram affair at the rear of the inlet manifold/engine?How do I check if that's working as it should?Could do with getting this sorted as M.O.T.ran out today and can't really take it running as is

[Gaffers]

Are the breather hoses on the right way around?  If the MAF comes up ok I would look at the back of the engine again  There are pics in the maintenance section to help you get the hoses right.

[dbug]

Story so far.Paid mechanic to replace cam cover gaskets[mistake?]first attempt saw all ok other than near side gasket still leaked!but engine ran o.k.]second attempt  removed scuttle panel for better access,result oil leaks cured,but now engine won't run right!I've checked for air leaks,can't see/hear feel any,sprayed wd40 all over this makes no difference.Pinch pipe which goes into front of icv and engine stalls,so I assume no air leaks.bought and fitted brand new icv this makes no difference.Engine will now tick over whilst sat in park,when cooling fans start car nearly stalls but then revs pick up to keep it running.However put car in gear and engine stalls,it's as though something is not compensating for extra drag.Have I bought a duff icv[although brand new]?Or am I now looking elsewhere for the problem?Luckily the Jag xj6 continues to be uber reliable,so am not devoid of transport.

Glad to hear that

As said try running it with MAF disconnected 

[BazaJT]

Right,latest news is that a mate has finally turned up with a code reader and that's thrown uo a code 19.I'm told this relates to the crank sensor?As far as I can make out the wiring plug for this is behind the n/s cylinder head,if this information is correct then I'm hoping it may just be a case of something not being reassembled correctly when the mechanic had his second go at the cam cover gasket on that side.It will now be Saturday[weather permitting as I have no cover for the car]before I can get to do any looking in depth to check it out.I shall keep you all posted as to outcome.

[Andy H]

Fingers crossed

On the other hand.....

Vauxhall ran the wire from the crank position sensor up between the block and the (sometimes red hot) exhaust manifold. Over time the insulation gets brittle, which is fine until it gets disturbed and fails.

Once it has failed it won't get any better. Get yourself a new, genuine, sensor before it leaves you stranded