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[SMD]

Rust    Its bubbled through the paint so it has advanced and just started to show on the bottom of arch (second pic)


Nearside




Offside isn't as bad yet



What is the solution? Would cleaning out the inside of wheelarch and applying kurust/waxoil work (or at least slow the process)?

[Kevin Wood]

Oh, dear...   

Anything will help, but what it really needs is to strip the area down to bare metal, neutralise the rust and then repaint. It'll be back eventually, but that's the best way to keep it at bay, IMHO.

[albitz]

As kevin says,but before repainting I use gravi guard,which is the type of stuff you see sprayed onto sills with a slight crinkle finish.
It protects the paint from stonechips and helps stop the whole thing starting all over again.
Its ideal for that area under the lip,as it cant be seen and doesnt spoil the look of the car.

http://www.autopaintsbrighton.co.uk/stone-chip-gravi-guard-u-pol-aerosol-black-500ml-241-p.asp

[SMD]

As the rust in on the inside of the wing, it would be difficult to take it back to bare metal without cutting out the afftected area (is this what you mean?) 

[albitz]

Not always easy to tell fom pics,but I would gues you could use a flap wheel or wire brush in a drill to remove the rust and proably have solid metal left underneath.
Then use a good quality rust neutraliser.

[cem_devecioglu]

sand the area until shiny metal.. buy some epoxy with hardener (used in cars or ships doesnt matter).. mix them .. spray .. let it dry for 2-3 days.. then you will wait long time to see another rust piece..guaranteed

[SMD]

Not always easy to tell fom pics,but I would gues you could use a flap wheel or wire brush in a drill to remove the rust and proably have solid metal left underneath.
Then use a good quality rust neutraliser.

If I was to buy something like this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-993067-Piece-Wheel-Brush/dp/B0015NSU5S/ref=pd_sim_kh_1  and attack it from the inside, not the area shown in the pics? and use a neturaliser/epoxy or hardener.

sand the area until shiny metal.. buy some epoxy with hardener (used in cars or ships doesnt matter).. mix them .. spray .. let it dry for 2-3 days.. then you will wait long time to see another rust piece..guaranteed

Which area do I sand? The area in the pictures?

[cem_devecioglu]

complete area where there are bubles and bubles to be expected later..use 180-220 grid sandpaper..
 
and if possible use epoxy also inside the arch..

[omega3000]

On this subject of rust , repair panels i found , pricey though and involves a lot of work 

Wheel arch repair

[SMD]

I ordered some wire brush drill attachments. So I need to clean inside the arch (do I need to wash it out with water?) and remove the flaking paint on the arch lip and sand it down until shiny (dry or wet sand?). I want to avoid removing paint too close the edge for obvious reasons, would this be ok?

Once cleaned, options are:

1. use gravi guard as suggested by Albs. Spray on inside of arch and on the lip itself? Then presumably prime and paint? If this is the case, I rather avoid painting as it can't be seen and just leave it primed.

2. use epoxy and hardener and apply as above. Then prime and paint?

3. Use this: http://www.bilthamber.com/deox-gel/  Apply as above. Does it need to be primed and painted?

Sorry for the thick questions but I want to have a reasonable understanding of what I'm about to do and what my options are 

Thanks

[omega3000]

If i was doing it i would jack the corner up your doing "use axle stands" and take the wheel off so you can get your head in and up around the inside , use a torch to see what needs cleaning off , a little spray gun with water to dislodge the grime then sand back with sander wire wheel , when dried apply rust treatment then leave to dry then apply the gravi guard  Mine has spread to the outer side so i plan to just keep sanding and touching up but when it gets too bad ill be springing the angle grinder on it 

[SMD]

Thats how I intended to get to the rust, I should fit under the wheel arch easy enough 

[albitz]

Carefully mask of the area around the lip,keeping as close to the affected area as possible and without exposing the outer/visible part of the arch if you can possibly help it. Thats what I did with mine and just about got away with it not being visible without looking under the lip. After rust neutraliser was applied and then graviguard I just primed,painted the colour and lacquered with rattle cans. Its been fine since I did it about a year ago.
If you peel the edge of the masking tape back slightly it helps prevent a visible ridge build up as you spray the coats of paint etc on.

[cem_devecioglu]

I ordered some wire brush drill attachments. So I need to clean inside the arch (do I need to wash it out with water?) and remove the flaking paint on the arch lip and sand it down until shiny (dry or wet sand?). I want to avoid removing paint too close the edge for obvious reasons, would this be ok?

Once cleaned, options are:

1. use gravi guard as suggested by Albs. Spray on inside of arch and on the lip itself? Then presumably prime and paint? If this is the case, I rather avoid painting as it can't be seen and just leave it primed.

2. use epoxy and hardener and apply as above. Then prime and paint?

3. Use this: http://www.bilthamber.com/deox-gel/  Apply as above. Does it need to be primed and painted?

Sorry for the thick questions but I want to have a reasonable understanding of what I'm about to do and what my options are 

Thanks

whereever you will work for painting, the area must be clean ..so wash inside the arch completely.. and let it dry.. if you have a compressor you can use air to dry some edges and tight areas where water hides..
 
then sand all flaking paint until bare metal(for that area dry sanding preferred and before painting surface must be completely dry) .. epoxy to direct metal surface is preferred, as it will not be too thick and wont chip if any stone hits.. a good quality epoxy cant be removed even if you hammer it.. when the surface is clean, before painting epoxy, wipe it with cleaning thinner (there must be no oil on surface and dont touch the surface with bare hand)
 
as Albs said you can mask the surface(a thick mask to protect the paint)  where you want the paint to be protected.. dont use paint solvers , they require very sensitive work , once spread around you and the car is in trouble..
 
epoxy itself is a primer no other primer is necessary.. the only drawback is it requires sometime (longer than other primers) .. so at least wait 24 hours and check.. then if you want to paint over it , use 800 grid sand paper (wet).. and when painting the normal color surface must be again dry,clean and free of oil..
 
when sanding use gloves to protect your hands..