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[Shackeng]

Arrived back kn****red at Gatwick on Monday AM, found the rear O/S window on the TD Estate 2 or 3 mm open, so a little rain had got in, blamed SWMBO for opening it before we left, and tried to close it, no movement, and (this is where I went wrong), I opened it a bit more, and tried again, no use. So now I'm facing the drive home, 4 up, with a window half open, Grrrrr  , fortunately, son's large hands managed to force window back up from outside.
Question, apart from sticky runners (don't think so, as it slid up manually OK), any ideas as to likely fault? I'm thinking wiring maybe.

[less]

Had similar experience on a senator, where the window was happy to open but not close - intermittent. At least it was intermittent until the rain was bucketing down that day    (Had to prop a brolly over it until the rain passed)

In my case it turned out to be a plug/socket combination in the door post - just needed pushing firmly together. I've no idea if the setup is the same for the omega but it could be.

[MarkC]

Is there any noise from the motor (assuming it's electric) when you try and operate the window, or is it dead? (pointing to wiring as you say).

[Shackeng]

Is there any noise from the motor (assuming it's electric) when you try and operate the window, or is it dead? (pointing to wiring as you say).

As I have it up, I'm now reluctant to open it again until sorted, but I couldn't hear the motor running, (however, I had SWMBO aboard!).

[MarkC]

Is there any noise from the motor (assuming it's electric) when you try and operate the window, or is it dead? (pointing to wiring as you say).

As I have it up, I'm now reluctant to open it again until sorted, but I couldn't hear the motor running, (however, I had SWMBO aboard!).

 

Okay, I'll take a punt on this though Not sure if this will help, but I had similar problem on the rear window of my Beemer.

If it's the same mechanism (runner and cable) it could be a similar fault.

Okay, so the cable has a ball pin moulded to it and the runner has a socket which the ball pin locates into. If the ball pin comes out of the socket it can fall either side of it i.e: if the ball pin comes out and lodges itself above the socket it will push the window down when operated but not back up (as the ball comes up on the cable but doesn't bring the socket/window with it therefore leaving it at the bottom, OR if the ball pin falls under the socket when you operate the window the window will stay where it is until you manually push it down with your hands, but the cable will pull the runner/window back up as the pin is below the socket forcing it up.

The pin needs to be popped back into the socket, job done (unfortunately it's a door card off job  )

I know that was a long winded explanation and probably not easy to understand but it's a difficult one to explain without a diagram-so I'll post one below...


As I say this happened on my BMW and it might be a totally unrelated answer. If you can't hear the motor running it'll no doubt be electrical...so ignore the above statement 

Not an Omega mech. but it'll give you an idea.

[Shackeng]

Thanks for that Mark, I was going to take the card off to check for power anyway.

[TheBoy]

Facelifts seem to suffer a problem where the cable attaches to windows, a piece of plastic fails, often in such a way, it works one way, but not other - although you hear motor in both directions.

PFL don't seem to suffer, yet identical setup - guess a change of supplier/penny pinching.


Beyond that, electrical I would guess 

[Shackeng]

Facelifts seem to suffer a problem where the cable attaches to windows, a piece of plastic fails, often in such a way, it works one way, but not other - although you hear motor in both directions.

PFL don't seem to suffer, yet identical setup - guess a change of supplier/penny pinching.


Beyond that, electrical I would guess 

This is on the MFL TD Estate.

[TheBoy]

Reckon you'll be proding around with a meter then