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[feeutfo]

Hopefully get a chance to look into this further tomorrow. Will start with removing the vap and turning it upside down to allow any air out.

Check filters, can these be emptied or blow through?

If nothing obvious change stat. Are the water pump vanes visible with stat removed and looking down the block? Just to eliminate that one too?

[Lazydocker]

Vapour phase could just be blown back through (I suppose... Never needed to change them) and liquid phase... Have a look and see how dirty it is

While you have the vap off, there should be a drain plug in the base for the heavy ends

[TheBoy]

Marie - PFL and FL read differently. 85-90 is correct cruise temp for FL, 93-95 is correct for PFL

cool so mine is still wrong ? mines a mini FL i believe. 

MFL = PFL in this discussion . So yours should cruise just below 95C (just below the mid point on the gauge)

[Kevin Wood]

Out of interest, Chris, what size nozzles are you running?

I recall the new style injectors are a bit marginal with respect to getting a short enough duration if they are oversized. ECU said nozzles too big when we calibrated (not that I'd normally worry too much) but I'm thinking.. Vapour will get more dense at lower temperatures, so shorter duration will be needed at idle. I wonder if it's overfuelling with the injectors already delivering the minimum amount of fuel they reliably can?

Once the vapouriser is hot, vapour out of it is warmer thus no problem.

[feeutfo]

Out of interest, Chris, what size nozzles are you running?

I recall the new style injectors are a bit marginal with respect to getting a short enough duration if they are oversized. ECU said nozzles too big when we calibrated (not that I'd normally worry too much) but I'm thinking.. Vapour will get more dense at lower temperatures, so shorter duration will be needed at idle. I wonder if it's overfuelling with the injectors already delivering the minimum amount of fuel they reliably can?

Once the vapouriser is hot, vapour out of it is warmer thus no problem.

2.3mm, same as Lazy's. Iirc it wouldn't calibrate at 2.2mm. But we can try the smaller sizes when we do TB's. it was fine all last winter. Something has changed.

I haven't touched the car today. Stinking Headache.

[TheBoy]

Mine is running at 2.5mm, and its too big to idle nicely in neutral. In drive, held on the brakes, its fine.

[Lazydocker]

ISTR 2.2mm was too small, although the pressure could be upped a fraction I suppose, at 1.1 BAR (which is supposed to be optimal)

2.3mm is generally OK, although it does sometimes have a little hunt if in Neutral

That said, mine's definitely running cool at the moment so not the best comparison, but I don't have any of the issues Chris does That said, I have a different start to all my journeys to him (roads/junctions/speed limits etc)

[feeutfo]

Mine is running at 2.5mm, and its too big to idle nicely in neutral. In drive, held on the brakes, its fine.

2.5 being recomended in the paperwork for this kit. Tried mine at 2.5 as the instructions, but nfg. New nozzles re drill etc etc.

[Kevin Wood]

I suppose it's more likely to be something that's changed... Don't suppose the vapour pressure has increased?

[feeutfo]

Not that I've noticed. But that doesn't answer your question as I've not had a cable until recently.

[Lazydocker]

I suppose it's more likely to be something that's changed... Don't suppose the vapour pressure has increased?

Actually, just had a look at the oscilloscope file again and the pressure is a little high... Perhaps try resetting it to 1.1 BAR and (possibly) recalibrate

[feeutfo]

Did we see that the fuel trim malfunction bank 2 code was lean though?

This code and the mss fires is normal mo when the fault occurs.

[v6man54deg Geffd]

Thinking of chaning my 2.6 over to gas next year I have had a few quotes which range from £950 -£1295 various systems as you are all on gas could I ask a few questions:

What is the best system?
 What size tank have you got or is available (saloon model) ?
I notice there are spare wheel well tanks - saloon has an upright spare wheel - is it possible to get a tank to replace that wheel? or do you have to have a horizontle tank?

how does the V6 run on gas?

Cheers

[Entwood]

Thinking of chaning my 2.6 over to gas next year I have had a few quotes which range from £950 -£1295 various systems as you are all on gas could I ask a few questions:

What is the best system?
 What size tank have you got or is available (saloon model) ?
I notice there are spare wheel well tanks - saloon has an upright spare wheel - is it possible to get a tank to replace that wheel? or do you have to have a horizontle tank?

how does the V6 run on gas?

Cheers

Best system ... good question .. answers will vary !! I have an expensive BRC system .. a smidge over 2 grand 4 1/2 years ago ... DIY is around £800 ... "best" is very subjective !!

I have an 80 litre tank so 64 ltrs LPG (80% max) /.. around 300 miles solo run, 200 miles in town, 180 miles towing the tin-tent

Mine is horizontal and takes up about 1/3 rd the boot space

How does it run Like a dream ... absolutely no difference in performance, right to the red line, solo or towing, only major difference is in cost per mile ... petrol it 26 p a mile .. LPG its 16 p a mile .. a saving of 38% ... 

But only worth doing if a) you do enough miles to justify conversion, b) you intend to keep the car, c) the ignition system is in 100% condition - LPG will quickly find any faults in the ignition system d) You have the ability to fill with LPG within a sensible distance

Just my views .. nowt else 

[TheBoy]

Thinking of chaning my 2.6 over to gas next year I have had a few quotes which range from £950 -£1295 various systems as you are all on gas could I ask a few questions:

What is the best system?
 What size tank have you got or is available (saloon model) ?
I notice there are spare wheel well tanks - saloon has an upright spare wheel - is it possible to get a tank to replace that wheel? or do you have to have a horizontle tank?

how does the V6 run on gas?

Cheers

"Best" for me was the AC Stag 300, KME Gold vapouriser and Teilo supplied injectors. "Best" due to the fact there is a reasonable amount of knowledge on this site for this, and its cheap (via Lazydocker's contact) DIY (under the £600 mark).

My older Omega has the same gas kit, but with a different vapouriser and Valtek injectors, this suffers lag at redline gearchanges, esp if the gas tank isn't near full.

Both mine have a 80l cylinder tank just behind rear seats, giving me a range of approx 275 (3.0l) and 240 (3.2l) (yes, the 3.0l is noticibly more economical (on petrol or gas)), but I probably drive it reasonably hard. I tend to average 19.5mpg on LPG in the 3.0l, and about 17-18mpg in the 3.2l. Both autos.


A man of your skills and knowledge, I'd recommend the DIY route.