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[Garza]

Hi all. Just thought if offers little info on this issue as it seems to be a fair few cars have had the same problem.

A lot of people have checked brakes, callipers, wishbones etc etc to no avail
And at first I thought that too.

So I replaced brake pads and disks all round and still had this issue.

If the car is on the floor and you check the wishbone bushes they seem fine.
It's only when you have car on ramps and have power steering going turning from lock to lock that you notice the bushes are shot.

Replaced bushes and car feels like new again.

It could always be something else that caused the issue mind its just I'm letting ppl know about the bushes as how they can be deceptive when car is on the floor.
Hope it might help a couple if you out there :-)

[flexbuttcheck1]

i had the same thing with mine on a track day at donnington it felt terrible almost to the point of being scary i put new lemmforder rear wishbone bushes and powerflex front wishbone bushes in and its made it a different car 

[feeutfo]

Rearward bush seems to be responsible for some of the various levels of feed back through the steering. Once the bush starts to split, the distance between the hub ball joints on the end of the wishbones can then vary compared to the length of the track rods to hub.

Various oddities can result. Pulling, tram lining, nasty folding sensations from the road wheel on full lock, violent pulling on the brakes over bumps... and, along with soft bushes or loose wishbone bolts, the steering wheel can turn right while the car pulls left.

The two parallel lines projected through the steering rods... and the hub ball joints through the wishbones and subframe, must remain the same length. Bushes are key to that. Especially the rearward vertical bush.


Ps, when torquing the wishbone bolts, if using genuine GM bushes, insure the wheels are loaded so that the bolts clamp the bush as close as possible to the normal ride height position. Or the bush will fail early.