Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[zirk]

Now the bonnet struts have run out of gas..........i give up!

Nice bit of 2 x 1 par  timber cut to length to wedge in as a temporary measure until rest of the problems are sorted .

Get it wedged into 2 nice locations where it can't slip though  . .   don't want it slipping & the falling bonnet removing any of your body parts 

Been there, done that. It hurts

Estate Tailgate hurts more 

[Doctor Gollum]

Only if the latch is fitted

[Toledodude1973]

Piece of wood is new temporary strut ,a chap was supposed to come round monday night to have a look but failed to show
Contacting Twiglet tomorrow to hopefully come saturday with tech2    Local garages dont seem keen on V6 Ommys

[Big_Al]

Piece of wood is new temporary strut ,a chap was supposed to come round monday night to have a look but failed to show
Contacting Twiglet tomorrow to hopefully come saturday with tech2    Local garages dont seem keen on V6 Ommys

Could be a blessing in disguise Paul ,   wouldn't let a Joe Bloggs' Motor Repairs local garage anywhere near my  V6 omega   

Lets see what Twiglet uncovers on yours  if he can get there at the weekend 

[Toledodude1973]

I'll let you know results of test Al ,just sent text to Twiglet

[Toledodude1973]

Update :Twiglet very kindly came round with Tech 2 ,after having problems communicating (as Lazdocker did) he managed to get in with engine running (after unplugging ECU, and re-plugging in)and got the codes up as follows:P0220 throttle pedal position sensor/switch "B" low imput. Second code was P0120 throttle pedal position sensor/switch "A" circuit high input. The third code was P1700 service vehicle soon request from transmission module. Can anyone decifer anything from this information which might help me on my starting problem, i would be most grateful. Thanks again twiglet.

[Andy H]

Update :Twiglet very kindly came round with Tech 2 ,after having problems communicating (as Lazdocker did) he managed to get in with engine running (after unplugging ECU, and re-plugging in)and got the codes up as follows:P0220 throttle pedal position sensor/switch "B" low imput. Second code was P0120 throttle pedal position sensor/switch "A" circuit high input. The third code was P1700 service vehicle soon request from transmission module. Can anyone decifer anything from this information which might help me on my starting problem, i would be most grateful. Thanks again twiglet.

Working on the plugs around the ECU seems to be the only thing you have done so far that has made any improvement. I would spend some time checking for cable damage /loose connections / corroded connectors in the vicinity (not necessarily the ECU plug, you will have disturbed other components while you were there).

High & low sensor inputs are often caused by intermittent connections. Gearbox codes are often second hand codes triggered by duff information being sent by the engine ECU (so don't completely ignore it but assume that it will clear when the engine ECU is happy)

[Toledodude1973]

Thank Andy  :'(Just stripped off insulation tape from connections around ECU ,no joy relays and throttles continue to open/shut

[Andy H]

It is difficult to do much more than offer encouragement from a distance 

What else would have been pulled about when you unplugged the ECU? I'm assuming the fuse block on top of the battery, all the big cables, the earth bolt under the battery tray and the wiring across the front of the engine to the throttle housing.

You shouldn't need to strip any insulation to find a poor connection (though you will to make a repair if you find one).

With the ignition on, and relays chattering, you need to find a wire or connector that, when pushed or pulled, causes the chattering to stop.

[Big_Al]

It is difficult to do much more than offer encouragement from a distance 

What else would have been pulled about when you unplugged the ECU? I'm assuming the fuse block on top of the battery, all the big cables, the earth bolt under the battery tray and the wiring across the front of the engine to the throttle housing.

You shouldn't need to strip any insulation to find a poor connection (though you will to make a repair if you find one).

With the ignition on, and relays chattering, you need to find a wire or connector that, when pushed or pulled, causes the chattering to stop.

+1       that would  be my line of logic too Paul. 

Throttle position sensor/s  is one thing that you have not had a look at though .  Could be worth having a wiggle around the sensor wiring at the pedal end if appropriate. Not sure whats down there to be honest . But just assuming that the sensor at the throttle end would have been changed when you replaced complete throttle body assembly. so pedal end is a possible suspect   
HTH 

 

[twiglet]

Sorry for the delay in adding my comments Paul, the wife was doing the online shop on the laptop, and apparently that is more important! 

When I first turned the ignition on, the eml and emission lights flickered (almost as you would expect to see with an intermittant earth fault), this was accompanied by the throttle body butterflies chattering.  At this point my tech2 would not communicate with the engine ecu.  It would however talk to the gearbox ecu and various other control modules around the car.

With the ignition still on, Paul then released the locking clip on the engine ecu multiplug, just enough to stop the chattering, and then reconnected it.  At this point the tech2 would communicate with the ecu quite happily.  The car would also start and run now, however it will not rev over approx. 1200rpm no matter how much throttle I applied.  This makes me think that there is a problem with a throttle position sensor somewhere.  Paul has already swapped out the throttle body with no change, so to me it is pointing towards the sensor on the pedal itself.

There were lots of fault codes stored in various ecus relating to can-bus errors and communication issues with the ecu, but I suspect that these may be being thrown up because of the way Paul is disconnecting the ecu with the ignition on.

I did have a good look at all the wiring around the ecu, and also the loom to the throttle body, but saw nothing to concern me.  All plugs were fully home, and all earthing points were tight and corrosion free.

Unless anyone can think of anything else, I think the next logical step would be to swap out the throttle pedal assembly, and see if that resolves the problem.

[albitz]

Im pretty sure I have a spare throttle potentiometer in the shed Paul can borrow to try to prove/disprove the point.
Should be able to just unplug the wiring from his pedal and plug it into this one and operate it by hand,without the need to remove his complete pedal assembly etc.
Drop me a PM Paul and see what we can arrange.Im back & forth to Colchester every day at the moment,so hopefully we can arrange something.This has gone on too long.Needs sorting.

[Toledodude1973]

Thanks everyone, having another look today at connectors etc. Albitz if you could find a pedal sensor that would be great only problem i'm working in Southwold next week at the moment but wil PM when your way cheers

[Kevin Wood]

Sounds to me like the connector into the ECU is intermittent if it's that that needs to be wiggled to get the ECU to power up. Could well be that some of the electronic throttle connections are dodgy too, so I wouldn't rush out and start replacing the throttle pedal sensor until the connection has been resolved, personally. Changing parts will just add other potential problems.

Are the ECU connector pins all OK - none bent or damaged. Worth a squirt of switch cleaner into the connector, perhaps?

I'm guessing it's the section of loom that runs from the ECU into the main car loom. I think this goes via the big plugs behind the battery, so potentially a small section of loom that could easily be replaced?

[symes]

Sounds to me like the connector into the ECU is intermittent if it's that that needs to be wiggled to get the ECU to power up. Could well be that some of the electronic throttle connections are dodgy too, so I wouldn't rush out and start replacing the throttle pedal sensor until the connection has been resolved, personally. Changing parts will just add other potential problems.

Are the ECU connector pins all OK - none bent or damaged. Worth a squirt of switch cleaner into the connector, perhaps?

I'm guessing it's the section of loom that runs from the ECU into the main car loom. I think this goes via the big plugs behind the battery, so potentially a small section of loom that could easily be replaced?

Stated to check connections in here 3x times now that is likeliest area for connection breakdown-need a small screw driver to close up terminals a bit-the spede part opens up--heat maybe?