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[Webby the Bear]

Afternoon fellas, hope you're all good

Right, down to business.

At school we took off a few drums and did some measuring of the drum, r and r shoes etc etc. however only once did we remove and replace wheel bearings on drum brakes.

iirc it was an R reg Escort and we slid the drum off, the front tapered roller bearing came off with the axel nut and the back TR bearing came out when drum was off. we then were shown how to knock out the inner races and how to fit them again. then back bearing in drum, replaced drum, replaced front bearing, axel nut tightened and job jobbed.

however looking at the Haynes manual for my Ford (06 plate so newer than the escort) it appears you remove the drum and then the hub containing the bearin(s) and races are a square assembly which is part of/attached to the backing plate. this comes off (I think you undo 4 bolts).

so my questions are this:

1. presumably if I was to just replace the drums I wouldn't have to knock out any races or any of that 'dangle berries'?
2. if I wanted to go a step further and replace wheel bearings (just cos i'm in there) do I replace this whole square assembly or do I have to mess around with swapping races out of the existing square thing

cheers gays, I mean guys 

[Webby the Bear]

oh and finally..... can the bearings form part of the drum ever? when I say ''can they'' I suppose I mean is there any car where the drums house the bearings

[Marks DTM Calib]

If the bearings are part of the drumes then they are removeable.

The assembly such as you have is a hub assembly where you replace the lot.

The older taper bearings, how did they teach you to tighten them out of interest?

[Webby the Bear]

If the bearings are part of the drumes then they are removeable.

The assembly such as you have is a hub assembly where you replace the lot.

The older taper bearings, how did they teach you to tighten them out of interest?

awesome so on the ones I have theres no bashing out old bearings/races etc? excellent!

presumably though I could remove the races and put new ones in myself as per the Haynes.. just seems a bit pointless if you can buy the whole assembly.

as for the old taper ones we did the nut up til it started to get snug then stopped. we then span the drum iirc backwards whilst hanging on to the nut to seat the bearings. then backed it off so there was a bit of play and popped the split pin in that's all from memory so if ive left anything out that's my fault 

[Marks DTM Calib]

Interesting, I was always taught to fit the wheel and nip the nut up until all play has been removed (just) before replacing the split pin and dust cap.

[henryd]

Interesting, I was always taught to fit the wheel and nip the nut up until all play has been removed (just) before replacing the split pin and dust cap.

Me similar,nip up till all play gone then back till next split pin hole aligns to leave a little play

[Webby the Bear]

i found a cool video that pretty much mirrors exactly how we were taught from 23 mins 30 secs onwards....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ccsbu2hT0MI

can I just clarify that I have two options when replacing the bearings on my car.... I can either undo the 4 bolts and replace the whole assembly or I can replace the race and bearings myself (presumanly to save some dosh)?

[symes]

did rear bearings on a pug 207-had to press them out + to top things off-new disc was 2.45mm different diameter - so bearings would'nt fit ended up getting disc's with bearings in-total pain in the a*****

[Marks DTM Calib]

Not that impressed with Mr Eric.

Hes not 'feeling' the bearing which is important 

[Webby the Bear]

lol I wouldn't know mate. as said ive only been shown once 

i'm hooking up with martin Saturday for hopefully a bit of supervision. if I wanted to get a drum off first to have a look and diagnose whats wrong so im not wasting so much of martins time i'm presuming I can simply take off the drum (backing off the adjuster through the little hole in the back ive got if need be) and then putting it back on and adjusting it if need be and fitting new axel nut?

[78bex]

iirc my old pug 309 had a bearing arranged in the rear brake drum.
I remember swinging on a scaffold pole to loosen the nuts off.
used the same pole to tighten em up too but no split pin involved. fit a new nut & just hammer the nut into a groove. I think the pug & citroen small vans had the same set up. with torsion bar rear suspension   

[Webby the Bear]

cheers bex. I got an impact gun sp i'm hoping that will be man enough to get it off 

ok, so if I can take the drum off and put it back on I may as well have a go at doing the shoes. my only trouble (well I say trouble, more like not that sure) was how should the drum feel when its back on and adjusted. should it be on pretty darn tight so you have to force it a bit to spin it... or just a little bit of resisitance?

[Webby the Bear]

sorry boys, not bumping but is this correct....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iN6z0oIZLBk

one turn of the wheel on its own should be the correct resistance?