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[blue_dream]

Evening guys
                  Ok, my meg has decide to chuck its engine oil over my driveway, when inspect i was hoping it was the oil pressure switch seal, to make sure cleaned the bottom of the engine, and left engine too idal for 10 minutes, engine being the 2.5 v6 x25xe, found oil coming from behind front crank, bloody hell, i have already checked breathers and cleaned out,i do this more then needed as something to do,i know sad, ok i know that the timing belt has to come of and the bolt is VERY tight but i would not be able to do up the bolt to the figuares stated, how important is this, would i need a new bolt or can i use the old one, would this take up end float on the crank, not sure 

[2woody]

you'll find that by far the easiest way to remove the front bolt is to grind the head off, so yes, you'll need a new bolt.

[tidla]

Decent air gun? ( rad space dependent)

[Andy B]

I've never removed an Omega's, but have done my Senators' & other cars with the use of a decent fit ring spanner & well place wallop with a lump hammer!

Controversially there's the spanner/socket & breaker bar wedged against the floor & a quick flick of the starter motor. I've also used this method successfully too .........  (Make sure the engine isn't going to start though if you try it)

[dbug]

I've never removed an Omega's, but have done my Senators' & other cars with the use of a decent fit ring spanner & well place wallop with a lump hammer!

Controversially there's the spanner/socket & breaker bar wedged against the floor & a quick flick of the starter motor. I've also used this method successfully too .........  (Make sure the engine isn't going to start though if you try it)

Yep used this myself - but not on an Omega - big risk of shearing woodruff key

[Andy B]

.....
- big risk of shearing woodruff key

So they say ........     

[biggriffin]

The woodruf normally snaps when the thing is walloped to remove the spacer/pulley. Best to have a replacement handy just in case.

[Marks DTM Calib]

You need to make a tool to hold the crank at the timing sprocket, then it s socket and bar to remove the bolt.

Beware, if you dont use a tool on the crank sprocket or lock it at the flywheel end then it will sheer the woodruff key which is part of the sintered crank sprocket.

I must have done 10+ of these and its not to hard to do.

Also, there is a spacer on the crank that the seal runs on, remove it and turn it around (clean it with fine wet and dry also) so the new seal runs on a new face.

[blue_dream]

 Hi guys
          Thanks for all the replys, i've notice the figure to tighten the bolt back up is over 300 pounds, i won't be able to get it back to this figure would it be ok up to say 210, once again thanks