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Total Members Voted: 3

[Kevin Wood]

Most taps in the UK market these days seem to have been designed for a more european system with mains pressure on the hot water. The kitchen tap we have is barely fit for purpose on a gravity system. With the supplied non-return valve fitted it was a choccy teapot. I'm sure it would flow plenty of water to trigger a pump, though. We have a similar shower pump and it only needs a dribble to start it. Maybe the flow sensors in the pump need a clean out?

Do you know where the pipework from pump to tap runs? Just wondering if there's anywhere it can airlock (i.e. a run up through the loft) as this would certainly reduce the flow. Also, is the pump correctly fed from an Essex / Surrey / Warix flange out of the tank to reduce the chance of it sucking air or just from the vented top connection on the tank, as this won't help?

I would remove any unnecessary junk from the hot feed to the tap. You don't need the non-return valve, as said, and can probably do away with any ball isolator valves, etc, which may be restrictive if not full bore.

If flow is that bad to all taps, then something else might be amiss. A gate valve somewhere in the flow that's not full on, for example, or the outlet from the tank clogged with calcium?

[chrisgixer]

If the pump is correctly installed with its flexis and a good insulator underneath then close to no vibration should be transmitted and hence you are left with pump noise only.

A better thicker insulator would significantly improve things (even folded t-towels would be better).

A pressure vessel will work IF the issue is the hot water cooling as it will maintain a constant post pump pressure, as per the above, does it work ok of the tap is operated shartly after it was turned off ?.

Banging from pipe work is easily sorted with the installation of arrestors 

No. Its better...if run recently. In that it pauses for about 5 secs before the water DOES flow. As opposed to never flowing no matter how long its left(unless the pump is activated by another tap)

[Marks DTM Calib]

So a small pressure vessel may well help

[chrisgixer]

Most taps in the UK market these days seem to have been designed for a more european system with mains pressure on the hot water. The kitchen tap we have is barely fit for purpose on a gravity system. With the supplied non-return valve fitted it was a choccy teapot. I'm sure it would flow plenty of water to trigger a pump, though. We have a similar shower pump and it only needs a dribble to start it. Maybe the flow sensors in the pump need a clean out?

the tap was installed first, (then a small pump) then a bigger pump, then a one way valve near the tap. The tap has never worked correctly. Just got worse as stuff was added, although if there is no flow , a one way valve can't then give less flow so in that sense it made no odds, but it will be removed. The sensors appear to be external, so can't be dirty, pic to follow

Do you know where the pipework from pump to tap runs? Just wondering if there's anywhere it can airlock (i.e. a run up through the loft) as this would certainly reduce the flow.

from the pump, up about two feet over some other pipes (could have air there) then down to the floor boards, along, then down in the corner of the kitchen

Also, is the pump correctly fed from an Essex / Surrey / Warix flange out of the tank to reduce the chance of it sucking air or just from the vented top connection on the tank, as this won't help?

a what flange? No idea. Pipe runs down from the loft, even though the tank is on the landing

I would remove any unnecessary junk from the hot feed to the tap. You don't need the non-return valve, as said, and can probably do away with any ball isolator valves, etc, which may be restrictive if not full bore.

If flow is that bad to all taps, then something else might be amiss. A gate valve somewhere in the flow that's not full on, for example, or the outlet from the tank clogged with calcium?

very possible, the down stairs cloakroom hot is furred up/will not open fully

[chrisgixer]

So a small pressure vessel may well help

I think it will help, if not entirely fix it.

...can a vessel work on a non sealed system? My only experience with these is on a sealed central heating system.

[chrisgixer]

A sensor...? ? ? ?

With arrow on.

[chrisgixer]

Pump position and surrounding pipe work.

[paul.77]

Are the taps 10 years old?
Do they have flexible connectors from copper to tap /and are they stright or kinked in any way? Has the problem of lack of flow got worse over the years?

[Vamps]

Have you not fixed that tap yet?.........

Blaady savernoorssss, would you like me to arrange a proper plumber and send him down to sort you out?..........

[chrisgixer]

Have you not fixed that tap yet?.........

Blaady savernoorssss, would you like me to arrange a proper plumber and send him down to sort you out?..........

Ooohohooo there's plenty where this came from, don't you worry.

[Kevin Wood]

Those sensors will have a reed switch on the outside of the pipe, and a little slug with a magnet on it inside the pipe, in the water flow. When the water flows, the slug moves up and magnet activates reed switch.

Difficult to diagnose remotely. I could pop round sometime if you like? I need to use your press, after all. 

[chrisgixer]

Are the taps 10 years old?
Do they have flexible connectors from copper to tap /and are they stright or kinked in any way? Has the problem of lack of flow got worse over the years?

Taps old? Er, this one is fairly new but was like this from the start.
Flexi connectors are "slightly" kinked but I'd be suprised if they where restrictive as a result.
Not got worse over time as such, just got worse when the pump was fitted.

Just checked...
...flexis are not quite straight, so I checked further, with tap open.

It flowed the moment I moved the flexi pipe. Its not twisted or kinked.

While holding the flexi...
Tap opened, you can feel the pressure move the pipe, but the tap doesn't flow. Wiggle the pipe further, tap flows. You can see the water (via surface tension) in the tap opening move as you move the flexi. All while tap is open. If moving the pipe to cause the water to withdraw it won't flow, obviously, but move the flexi in a way that makes the water drip extend from the tap enough, its millimetres, and the pump kicks in and it flows.

Interesting. Pressure clearly there, and overcoming the one way valve ad I can feal it at the flexi. But still won't flow. Jiggle flexi and it flows. Surely the pressure is more force than jiggling as far as the tap is concerned...?

[chrisgixer]

Those sensors will have a reed switch on the outside of the pipe, and a little slug with a magnet on it inside the pipe, in the water flow. When the water flows, the slug moves up and magnet activates reed switch.

Difficult to diagnose remotely. I could pop round sometime if you like? I need to use your press, after all. 

they seem to work exceptionally well( given my last post)

[Kevin Wood]

Sounds like the flexi pipe is blocked or kinked.

Hasn't got a gauze filter at one end, has it?

[chrisgixer]

Sounds like the flexi pipe is blocked or kinked.

Hasn't got a gauze filter at one end, has it?

It might do, but the plumber swapped the hot and cold flexis around when the one ways where fitted to test the tap. Fault followed the hot feed. I presume they would have checked ant filters...

...errr, I'd better pull the lot apart in the morning and see.