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[Paulus62]

Morning All

Spent half of Tuesday doing the handbrake (so I thought  ) only for it to fail on the MOT with only 20 & 80 effort (told should be at least 150 effort). What i don't understand is that I had adjusted the top of the pads so they were just touching and then the cable so that I couldn't turn the wheel when leaver was as 3 clicks. What have I done wrong or missed out?

Secondly, The offside real wheel bearing is loose, tester could rattle wheel & showed me (I couldn't  (damned back)) So having looked through the maintenance guides there isn't anything about doing the rear ones and the front one was replacing the hub as a whole, not the bearing. Other posts relating to it are years old and talk of home made tools for the job, all people miles away from me. So can someone give me a clue as to how these work or a photo and should I use Vauxhall bearings or are there cheaper options?

Sorry to be always asking probably obvious questions!

Paul   

[Entwood]

Rear bearings are replaced with just the bearing .. but it's a bit of a pig of a job .... Very luckily Sassenach (in Wilts) did mine for me .. and he has a range of home made tools designed just for this job .... his hub puller is to be seen to be believed ....  .. but it does the job and he did one in less than an hour .. and some of that was searching for/making a bit that had gone missing !!

I used a genuine VX bearing .. around £40 IIRC

If you can find someone with slightly better than the normal "home mechanic" kit it will be a lot easier ...

[Andy B]

Pads are for the foot brake & are quite separate from the handbrake's shoes in the drum.

[Paulus62]

Pads are for the foot brake & are quite separate from the handbrake's shoes in the drum.

Yes  Those are what I was referring to. I opened up the upper adjuster so that the hub was just rubbing as this is the pivot point as I understood.

Having looked at a Youtube clip on removing the rear bearing from a BMW, would I be right in thinking that I need to remove the drive shaft between the differential and the wheel? Also is it prudent to do both rear wheel bearings at the same time?

Rear bearings are replaced with just the bearing .. but it's a bit of a pig of a job .... Very luckily Sassenach (in Wilts) did mine for me .. and he has a range of home made tools designed just for this job .... his hub puller is to be seen to be believed ....  .. but it does the job and he did one in less than an hour .. and some of that was searching for/making a bit that had gone missing !!

I used a genuine VX bearing .. around £40 IIRC

If you can find someone with slightly better than the normal "home mechanic" kit it will be a lot easier ...

   

Wiltshire is a good 5½ hours from me unfortunately    And thanks for the reply, I'll order the bearings from AndyC 

[Marks DTM Calib]

Did you follow the guide for the handbrake and strip the mechanism down?

As I bet you have an actuator that is seized

[Paulus62]

Did you follow the guide for the handbrake and strip the mechanism down?

As I bet you have an actuator that is seized

Thank you, I didn't 

something I can do while trying to work out how to do the bearing 

[Marks DTM Calib]

Did you follow the guide for the handbrake and strip the mechanism down?

As I bet you have an actuator that is seized

Thank you, I didn't 

something I can do while trying to work out how to do the bearing 

If you have a good bearing puller, big hammers, decent chisel, circlip pliers and an angle grinder with 1mm metal cutting disc the you should be able to do the rear bearing

[Paulus62]

If you have a good bearing puller, big hammers, decent chisel, circlip pliers and an angle grinder with 1mm metal cutting disc the you should be able to do the rear bearing

Oh, Have all but 1st & can probably borrow one from a mate, what do you need the angle grinder for? Sounds rather drastic   

[Paulus62]

Did you follow the guide for the handbrake and strip the mechanism down?

As I bet you have an actuator that is seized

You were quite right  just have to remember how I got the buggers out last time!

With regard to the bearing, to undo the T50 bolts from drive do I put the wheel back on & take off stand and undo them that way, as access is limited to only a couple at a time I assume I do a couple, up and rotate, etc. Do I unbolt them completely before taking wheel & disc off or leave them part done up?

Cheers,

Paul   

[Entwood]

Did you follow the guide for the handbrake and strip the mechanism down?

As I bet you have an actuator that is seized

You were quite right  just have to remember how I got the buggers out last time!

With regard to the bearing, to undo the T50 bolts from drive do I put the wheel back on & take off stand and undo them that way, as access is limited to only a couple at a time I assume I do a couple, up and rotate, etc. Do I unbolt them completely before taking wheel & disc off or leave them part done up?

Cheers,

Paul   

Loosen wheel bolts .... Car on axle stands NOT ramps .. in Neutral NOT drive, Handbrake OFF.....  undo what you can, rotate wheel, undo next one .. etc etc. pull drive shaft out of the way and tie up... remove wheel and continue ..   ... is how I remember it ....   

[Paulus62]

Loosen wheel bolts .... Car on axle stands NOT ramps .. in Neutral NOT drive, Handbrake OFF.....  undo what you can, rotate wheel, undo next one .. etc etc. pull drive shaft out of the way and tie up... remove wheel and continue ..   ... is how I remember it ....   

Thanks, I thought it would be the way 

I suppose putting it in 2nd or 3rd & doing it that way without having to lift up and down is a no no?   

[Entwood]

Loosen wheel bolts .... Car on axle stands NOT ramps .. in Neutral NOT drive, Handbrake OFF.....  undo what you can, rotate wheel, undo next one .. etc etc. pull drive shaft out of the way and tie up... remove wheel and continue ..   ... is how I remember it ....   

Thanks, I thought it would be the way 

I suppose putting it in 2nd or 3rd & doing it that way without having to lift up and down is a no no?

Don't understand .. the car goes up ONCE, undo the bolts you can see, hands on the wheel and rotate it, undo the next bolts as long as its in neutral with the handbrake off the wheel will turn ...   ??

[Paulus62]

Don't understand .. the car goes up ONCE, undo the bolts you can see, hands on the wheel and rotate it, undo the next bolts as long as its in neutral with the handbrake off the wheel will turn ...   ??

Trying to undo T50 bolts wheel is turning, as I have already taken the brake caliper off & hand brake pads I have no way to stop the wheel turning other than put it back on the deck, unless I stick it in gear, which I'm not sure would be a good idea or not 

Maybe I'm being stupid or I'm I missing something?

[Nick W]

Loosely screw two wheel bolts into the hub, opposite each other.
Now you can wedge a long bar/jack handle(probably not long enough) between them to hold the hub still.
The T50 bolts holding the CV joint/drive flange together aren't that tight.
The hub nut behind the drive flange is what might prove to be tricky; it is tight, and access is limited if you only have the car on axle stands.

[Paulus62]

Loosely screw two wheel bolts into the hub, opposite each other.
Now you can wedge a long bar/jack handle(probably not long enough) between them to hold the hub still.
The T50 bolts holding the CV joint/drive flange together aren't that tight.
The hub nut behind the drive flange is what might prove to be tricky; it is tight, and access is limited if you only have the car on axle stands.

Thanks Nick, did the T50 bolts with only 2 up and down using the wheel so not as bad as it looked 
The hub nut is now the sticking point as it is 31mm and my socket set only goes up to 30mm 
I am going to find out what the imperial equivalent is & see if my mate has a box spanner that size, I think it is 1 7/32" so am hoping 1 ¼" will work if he has one  but I will look it up first

So much for simple DIY