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[bigegg]

and as of today, I am no longer a car polish and wax virgin. 

Started with turtle wax "wash and shine", then turtle wax "finish 2001" polish, then carpride "FST car wax"

Didn't think it would take 4 1/2 hours tho 
and my arms are killing me (3 hours in the gym last night didn't help), cos I did all the applying and buffing by hand.

Still, looks better than the job the kosovans usually do.

I have a b&d variable speed buffer/polisher thing - looks like an angle grinder.
Is this a good idea? What sort of polishing mops should I get?

Also, there's still a fair few minor scratches showing - would these buff out with the power buff?
Or is there a product which will fill them in/cover them?

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

and as of today, I am no longer a car polish and wax virgin. 

Started with turtle wax "wash and shine", then turtle wax "finish 2001" polish, then carpride "FST car wax"

Didn't think it would take 4 1/2 hours tho 
and my arms are killing me (3 hours in the gym last night didn't help), cos I did all the applying and buffing by hand.

Still, looks better than the job the kosovans usually do.

I have a b&d variable speed buffer/polisher thing - looks like an angle grinder.
Is this a good idea? What sort of polishing mops should I get?

Also, there's still a fair few minor scratches showing - would these buff out with the power buff?
Or is there a product which will fill them in/cover them?

I usually get this far, before the words 'that'll do' takes over 

[bigegg]

I actually find it quite enjoyable.
I like washing up as well.

think it's the soapy water 

[taitinson]

and as of today, I am no longer a car polish and wax virgin. 

Started with turtle wax "wash and shine", then turtle wax "finish 2001" polish, then carpride "FST car wax"

Didn't think it would take 4 1/2 hours tho 
and my arms are killing me (3 hours in the gym last night didn't help), cos I did all the applying and buffing by hand.

Still, looks better than the job the kosovans usually do.

I have a b&d variable speed buffer/polisher thing - looks like an angle grinder.
Is this a good idea? What sort of polishing mops should I get?

Also, there's still a fair few minor scratches showing - would these buff out with the power buff?
Or is there a product which will fill them in/cover them?

I usually get this far, before the words 'that'll do' takes over 

I don't even get that far

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

The Halfords car shampoo  at 66p a bottle seems to do a fine job.

It leaves the car nice and shiny, so I can't be arsed to dry it, and then wax it. That's  too much like hard work as far as I'm concerned.

I simply leave the hose running and rinse the crap off as I walk around the car.

Total time about 25 minutes.

[cem_devecioglu]

and as of today, I am no longer a car polish and wax virgin. 

Congrats

Started with turtle wax "wash and shine", then turtle wax "finish 2001" polish, then carpride "FST car wax"

Turtle wax is generally good quality as they contain high percent of protector wax however,  its important to choose the correct particle size .. but I guess you dont use a coarse one anway..


Didn't think it would take 4 1/2 hours tho 

if the car is newly painted or surface has too many tiny scratches , its better to sand (wet) with 2000 first.. it minimises polishing time..
however, if you want a showroom quality shine (no traces or buff marks)  it will take few days to finish assuming you are not hercules

you need to make 2 pass after sanding.. first G3 or similiar  than finer polish with softer head..


and my arms are killing me (3 hours in the gym last night didn't help), cos I did all the applying and buffing by hand.

Still, looks better than the job the kosovans usually do.

I have a b&d variable speed buffer/polisher thing - looks like an angle grinder.
Is this a good idea? What sort of polishing mops should I get?


at least 2 different polishing heads and 2 different paste.. coarser (farecla G3) and finer..


Also, there's still a fair few minor scratches showing - would these buff out with the power buff?

as a general rule if the scratch catches your finger nail dont buff it..  spray normal laquer 2-3 layers (masked area) than sand..

if its not filled later spray another laquer layer  than sand again


Or is there a product which will fill them in/cover them?

there are various filling products but by experince laquer painting alone is the best method

and a note if you will use painting for scratch repair dont use polishes for that area.. or else you need to clean it with synthetic cleaning thinner (not celulosic it will dissolve paint)..

[bigegg]

there are various filling products but by experince laquer painting alone is the best method


and a note if you will use painting for scratch repair dont use polishes for that area.. or else you need to clean it with synthetic cleaning thinner (not celulosic it will dissolve paint)..

Thanks cem 

What's the best method for deeper (to metal) scratches?
There's only a couple, and they haven't broken the galvanising (Lexus have notoriously soft paint, but thick galvanising) - they're really obvious when full of white polish.

They're a job for later tho - got the four corners to fill, straighten, and repaint.
(70+ y/o previous owner who was obviously no longer fit to drive  )

[cem_devecioglu]

there are various filling products but by experince laquer painting alone is the best method


and a note if you will use painting for scratch repair dont use polishes for that area.. or else you need to clean it with synthetic cleaning thinner (not celulosic it will dissolve paint)..

Thanks cem 

What's the best method for deeper (to metal) scratches?
There's only a couple, and they haven't broken the galvanising (Lexus have notoriously soft paint, but thick galvanising) - they're really obvious when full of white polish.

They're a job for later tho - got the four corners to fill, straighten, and repaint.
(70+ y/o previous owner who was obviously no longer fit to drive  )

metal surface.. hmmm..

if the car have metallic paint you are in trouble.. if not its easier as you can apply partial paint.. 

talking for metallic surface
mask the scratch area as narrow as possible, first layer (2 tiny coats) epoxy or any good quality primer.. (primer should fill some of the scratch not completely..  let dry depending on the weather conditions.. then original paint color (match as close as possible) another 2-3 tiny layers.. let dry again.. now wet sand the area lightly until you reach the original surface with laquer..    let dry.. now spray laquer 2 coats .. let dry.. than sand and polish..   

long and tedious job and requires some experience I'm afraid..

ps: spray gun must be at least 25-30 cms to surface not to fill the area completely and passed in a moderate quick speed..  you will need to practice with your gun to see how much it sprays with some fix speed, pressure (a bit less than normal working pressure and spray pattern (must be wide open)..  I use 0.8 micron for those repairs..
 

[bigegg]

there are various filling products but by experince laquer painting alone is the best method


and a note if you will use painting for scratch repair dont use polishes for that area.. or else you need to clean it with synthetic cleaning thinner (not celulosic it will dissolve paint)..

Thanks cem 

What's the best method for deeper (to metal) scratches?
There's only a couple, and they haven't broken the galvanising (Lexus have notoriously soft paint, but thick galvanising) - they're really obvious when full of white polish.

They're a job for later tho - got the four corners to fill, straighten, and repaint.
(70+ y/o previous owner who was obviously no longer fit to drive  )

metal surface.. hmmm..

if the car have metallic paint you are in trouble.. if not its easier as you can apply partial paint.. 

talking for metallic surface
mask the scratch area as narrow as possible, first layer (2 tiny coats) epoxy or any good quality primer.. (primer should fill some of the scratch not completely..  let dry depending on the weather conditions.. then original paint color (match as close as possible) another 2-3 tiny layers.. let dry again.. now wet sand the area lightly until you reach the original surface with laquer..    let dry.. now spray laquer 2 coats .. let dry.. than sand and polish..   

long and tedious job and requires some experience I'm afraid..

ps: spray gun must be at least 25-30 cms to surface not to fill the area completely and passed in a moderate quick speed..  you will need to practice with your gun to see how much it sprays with some fix speed, pressure (a bit less than normal working pressure and spray pattern (must be wide open)..  I use 0.8 micron for those repairs..

bugger that for a game of soldiers.
I'll pay someone to fix it! 

Thanks cem - it's pearlescent, so assuming it'll be worse than metallic. 

[PhilRich]

I actually find it quite enjoyable.
I like washing up as well.

think it's the soapy water   





Yea right! More likely the Marigolds matey

[bigegg]

I actually find it quite enjoyable.
I like washing up as well.

think it's the soapy water   

Yea right! More likely the Marigolds matey

marigolds wouldn't help mate 
I tend to get soaked from head to foot

[cem_devecioglu]

there are various filling products but by experince laquer painting alone is the best method


and a note if you will use painting for scratch repair dont use polishes for that area.. or else you need to clean it with synthetic cleaning thinner (not celulosic it will dissolve paint)..

Thanks cem 

What's the best method for deeper (to metal) scratches?
There's only a couple, and they haven't broken the galvanising (Lexus have notoriously soft paint, but thick galvanising) - they're really obvious when full of white polish.

They're a job for later tho - got the four corners to fill, straighten, and repaint.
(70+ y/o previous owner who was obviously no longer fit to drive  )

metal surface.. hmmm..

if the car have metallic paint you are in trouble.. if not its easier as you can apply partial paint.. 

talking for metallic surface
mask the scratch area as narrow as possible, first layer (2 tiny coats) epoxy or any good quality primer.. (primer should fill some of the scratch not completely..  let dry depending on the weather conditions.. then original paint color (match as close as possible) another 2-3 tiny layers.. let dry again.. now wet sand the area lightly until you reach the original surface with laquer..    let dry.. now spray laquer 2 coats .. let dry.. than sand and polish..   

long and tedious job and requires some experience I'm afraid..

ps: spray gun must be at least 25-30 cms to surface not to fill the area completely and passed in a moderate quick speed..  you will need to practice with your gun to see how much it sprays with some fix speed, pressure (a bit less than normal working pressure and spray pattern (must be wide open)..  I use 0.8 micron for those repairs..

bugger that for a game of soldiers.
I'll pay someone to fix it! 

Thanks cem - it's pearlescent, so assuming it'll be worse than metallic. 

disaster totale pearlescent is big big trouble.. forget that.. repair requires whole part to be painted

[Lazydocker]

I actually find it quite enjoyable.
I like washing up as well.

think it's the soapy water   

Yea right! More likely the Marigolds matey

marigolds wouldn't help mate 
I tend to get soaked from head to foot

A little sick just came up Pass the mind bleach please

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

I actually find it quite enjoyable.
I like washing up as well.

think it's the soapy water   

Yea right! More likely the Marigolds matey

marigolds wouldn't help mate 
I tend to get soaked from head to foot

A little sick just came up Pass the mind bleach please :D

I didn't think that the Beemer looked too bad.

[omega3000]

I didn't think that the Beemer looked too bad.