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[chrisgixer]

...for taking the time to come and look at my garage electrics. 40mile round trip and wouldn't take any money.     bless him.

Your looking well though mate, so fingers crossed as always with the health issues. Sounds very hopeful though

Garage wiring doesn't appear to be too bad. It is fused in all the right places, so won't cause any problems except blow a 3amp fuse if over loaded by the likes of a welder. The problem though, is that the whole loop has been taken from a lighting circuit, as I understand it.
 So the fix is to drill through from the kitchen to the garage and run the correct cable from the kitchen plug sockets.

Then I can run the welder from the garage.

Thanks again AndyRoid. (Stick the fuel money on the bill for the consumer unit ) 

[TheBoy]

Given that you can't run a spur from a spur (IIRC), would it be worth extending the ring main into garage? Or more preferably if the CU is convenient, its own ring main?

Was just think of the future, as you're bound to want more leccy stuff. Boys with toys, and all that.

[chrisgixer]

Given that you can't run a spur from a spur (IIRC), would it be worth extending the ring main into garage? Or more preferably if the CU is convenient, its own ring main?

Was just think of the future, as you're bound to want more leccy stuff. Boys with toys, and all that.

I think that's the solution, one way or another I'm sure AndyRoid will be along to explain, but there's two options.

1 extend the ring main (not sure that's the correct terminology) from the adjacent kitchen.

2 run the garage to its own circuit from a replacement consumer unit. The cu is sited in the cloakroom, also adjacent to the garage, so easy done.


We just need to decide which option based in costs. The cloakroom is in the middle or re decoration so nows the time really.

[chrisgixer]

Given the electrical disturbance the welder caused, obviously I'd prefer the garage to be on its own circuit.

Or use both options. Keeping the welder separate from all else.

[TheBoy]

Given that you can't run a spur from a spur (IIRC), would it be worth extending the ring main into garage? Or more preferably if the CU is convenient, its own ring main?

Was just think of the future, as you're bound to want more leccy stuff. Boys with toys, and all that.

I think that's the solution, one way or another I'm sure AndyRoid will be along to explain, but there's two options.

1 extend the ring main (not sure that's the correct terminology) from the adjacent kitchen.

2 run the garage to its own circuit from a replacement consumer unit. The cu is sited in the cloakroom, also adjacent to the garage, so easy done.


We just need to decide which option based in costs. The cloakroom is in the middle or re decoration so nows the time really.

Ah, if CU is there, sounds like thats the way to go. Presumably no blanks in the CU, so it needs replacement 

Although I know it can take it, I think most kitchen ring mains have enough high power kit hanging off them (kettles, toasters, coffee makers etc etc)

[MR MISTER]

Given that you can't run a spur from a spur (IIRC), would it be worth extending the ring main into garage? Or more preferably if the CU is convenient, its own ring main?

Was just think of the future, as you're bound to want more leccy stuff. Boys with toys, and all that.

I think that's the solution, one way or another I'm sure AndyRoid will be along to explain, but there's two options.

1 extend the ring main (not sure that's the correct terminology) from the adjacent kitchen.

2 run the garage to its own circuit from a replacement consumer unit. The cu is sited in the cloakroom, also adjacent to the garage, so easy done.


We just need to decide which option based in costs. The cloakroom is in the middle or re decoration so nows the time really.

Ah, if CU is there, sounds like thats the way to go. Presumably no blanks in the CU, so it needs replacement 

Although I know it can take it, I think most kitchen ring mains have enough high power kit hanging off them (kettles, toasters, coffee makers etc etc)

Or a spur?

[chrisgixer]

Given that you can't run a spur from a spur (IIRC), would it be worth extending the ring main into garage? Or more preferably if the CU is convenient, its own ring main?

Was just think of the future, as you're bound to want more leccy stuff. Boys with toys, and all that.

I think that's the solution, one way or another I'm sure AndyRoid will be along to explain, but there's two options.

1 extend the ring main (not sure that's the correct terminology) from the adjacent kitchen.

2 run the garage to its own circuit from a replacement consumer unit. The cu is sited in the cloakroom, also adjacent to the garage, so easy done.


We just need to decide which option based in costs. The cloakroom is in the middle or re decoration so nows the time really.

Ah, if CU is there, sounds like thats the way to go. Presumably no blanks in the CU, so it needs replacement 

Although I know it can take it, I think most kitchen ring mains have enough high power kit hanging off them (kettles, toasters, coffee makers etc etc)

Cu is the old wired fuse type. No trips.

[biggriffin]

First find a sparky who can sign the job off,then fit a nice new split cu for the whole house.
2.5 be fine for drills,grinders etc. 1.5 for lighting. Run the garage as a separate circut maybe use 8.0 as the supply to a small cu for the garage then as before 2.5 for plugs 1.5 for lights.or just run some 10 straight from the cooker feed with a double socket on the end top bodge

[chrisgixer]

I'm thinking along the lines of running the small garage tools off the kitchen/downstairs ring main.

Then run a separate circuit off the new cu for heavy stuff like a welder, also to the garage, independently from everything else. I presume?

 So the welder can't inter fear with the circuit to other stuff on the downstairs ring main, like the cooker, but also the tv and home cinema stuff, presumably. And if she turns the cooker on, that won't mess with the welder either.

 The violence of the welder draw was enough to dim and flash some lights I've run of a plug socket in the kitchen. The flash was caused each time the welder arked on, which is very rapid. I don't want common electrical house hold appliances exposed to that sort of current draw.

It can't be good for them, can it? I'm thinking better safe anyway.

[aaronjb]

In my case the garage runs off a length of 10mm SWA to it's own CU (separate rings for sockets, lights, single run to a 20A commando socket etc) and that 10mm SWA is fed from the old cooker trip in my main CU (old CU, Martin might remember .. I can't recall the name but it's breakers that pre-date MCB/ELCBs) as I don't have an electric cooker..

The compressor turning on in the garage still makes the lights in the house go 'blip' ...

[chrisgixer]

Oh, and it will also need a length of armoured cable to the shed, laid along the floor, as opposed to along the top of a short length of fence.

[chrisgixer]

In my case the garage runs off a length of 10mm SWA to it's own CU (separate rings for sockets, lights, single run to a 20A commando socket etc) and that 10mm SWA is fed from the old cooker trip in my main CU (old CU, Martin might remember .. I can't recall the name but it's breakers that pre-date MCB/ELCBs) as I don't have an electric cooker..

The compressor turning on in the garage still makes the lights in the house go 'blip' ...

So better on a separate circuit, is what your saying?

[aaronjb]

In my case the garage runs off a length of 10mm SWA to it's own CU (separate rings for sockets, lights, single run to a 20A commando socket etc) and that 10mm SWA is fed from the old cooker trip in my main CU (old CU, Martin might remember .. I can't recall the name but it's breakers that pre-date MCB/ELCBs) as I don't have an electric cooker..

The compressor turning on in the garage still makes the lights in the house go 'blip' ...

So better on a separate circuit, is what your saying?

Mine is on a separate circuit I'm saying even though that's how it's wired in I still see the garage affect the rest of the house..

Having said that my household wiring is old (1970) and the main CU & breakers are of the same vintage.. Someone who knows their arse from their elbow when it comes to wiring (i.e. AndyRoid, not me ) will know if your situation would be different to mine.

But I suspect, if everything comes back to the same ultimate pair of meter tails and ground spike, you'd still see the welder make lights flicker? Circuits in household wiring aren't truly electrically isolated from each other I don't think.. (all fed from the same bus bar, ultimately)

[chrisgixer]

Ah, I see,  good I'm glad you posted. I wasn't sure. Thankyou.

As you say, see what AndyRoid says.

[aaronjb]

Ah, I see,  good I'm glad you posted. I wasn't sure. Thankyou.

As you say, see what AndyRoid says.

BTW, the house I sent you a link to has a 35' long garage .. same dodgy 1970s wiring as my house, though