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[05omegav6]

Funny you should say that, I was (in part) agreeing with you

Place a straw in a half full glass. Blow firmly into the straw and air is forced down the straw preventing liquid from entering it. Stop blowing, and the liquid will flow back into the straw.

If the tailpipe is partially submerged, water will flow up it as the gasses escape. In reality, not much water will get past the back box, as once the engine stalls there will be no pressure, positive or negative, in the system to neither draw the water further in nor to expell it.

Pretty simple physics really

I had overlooked the thermal side of things but once cooled and waterlogged, there won't be much of anything going anywhere guess only hope is to remove the intake duct from the throttle and pray the engine turns over. and fires

[Broomies Mate]

Engine HOT, Exhaust HOT.

Stalled in standing water, Exhaust Pipe below water line.  Water floods the exhaust system causing rapid cooling.

Cooler air is much less dense, pulls water further into Exhaust system.

Not possible huh?

Had much experience of 4x4 driving through shed loads of water?

[chrisgixer]

Not been on this thread since page one.

Click new posts, and come to this page and the two posts above.

On reading them, bets a large amount of money that dbdb has posted on page 2.

Click page 2.


Yep, I win.

[05omegav6]

  that's like betting that today is Friday...

Sorry, no prize

ps you should see the spark plug thread

[tunnie]

I find it quite funny, that in the face of complete and utter proof water is in the engine, as poor takemineanywhere has already stated on page 1...

. its the worst diagnosis.Theres water evertwhere even in the pump.Looks like the end of her.

... yet still dbdb think's it's impossible for water to enter the engine through the exhaust 

How about instead of being argumentative, you try and actually help the OP? Suggest resources for replacement engine, help out, advice on doing work, nahh, lets just start an argument. 

[chrisgixer]

Absolutely Tunnie, he's no help to anyone. Posts nothing constructive and is a negative influence on all he touches.

I suspect he's an alias tbh. Nobody is that obtuse.

[chrisgixer]

Although, I must say, there was a time when admin would tidy up such a thread. Move the debate posts to another thread and leave the help alone.

[tunnie]

Although, I must say, there was a time when admin would tidy up such a thread. Move the debate posts to another thread and leave the help alone.

All very busy these days and understandably got better things to do than sort out crap like this 

[Entwood]

Although, I must say, there was a time when admin would tidy up such a thread. Move the debate posts to another thread and leave the help alone.

Admin should not have to "tidy up" the forum, they have better things to do with their time.

Perhaps if people stopped responding to these crass posts the perpetrator would give up and go elsewhere ?? After all, every troll only wants an audience.

[chrisgixer]

Although, I must say, there was a time when admin would tidy up such a thread. Move the debate posts to another thread and leave the help alone.

Admin should not have to "tidy up" the forum, they have better things to do with their time.

Perhaps if people stopped responding to these crass posts the perpetrator would give up and go elsewhere ?? After all, every troll only wants an audience.

Quite so. But there was most certainly a time... "This post has been moved to this topic" iirc...? Was there not?

[chrisgixer]

Maybe its a software limitation, I don't recall seeing it on smf?

[chrisgixer]

Anyway, apologies to the op.

Sorry to hear about your lovely car. Will you fix or replace it? 

[tunnie]

Anyway, apologies to the op.

Sorry to hear about your lovely car. Will you fix or replace it? 

Think an engine replacement is best route, (to save the car) which is a major job. Some big beer tokens would need to be offered, I wonder if Daz or James might be interested 

Other option is source another car, then just transfer all new bits over, as they sound quite recent additions. (shocks, discs ect)

[Marks DTM Calib]

I have some concerns regarding the initial diagnosis.

I am struggling to see where water can get into the pump given that it is a sealed unit with the only fluid being diesel within it.

When diesel engines hydraulic, they tend to do this in a very spectacular manner.

For me the checks would be.

Air filter - state and as a temporary measure, remove.
Oil - check level and if increased, crack the sump plug and see if water comes out, drain until oil is seen, re-check level.
Water - check level, if down top up and see if it remains

Then I would remove the injectors and crank the engine over watching for water exiting the injector holes, also watch for fuel exiting the injector lines.

Then re-fit injectors and go for it....there is at the end of the day, nothing to lose.

[chrisgixer]

Hmmm, on thinking further, after reading Marks post.

I've seen two stroke bike engines hydrolock on petrol, when the float bowl needle stuck open. Engine was kicked over, then bumped repeatedly, as the fault was then unknown and it was a bit if a ratter anyway.

It eventually fired after a halo of liquid was seen exiting around the cylinder head. Clearly it had lifted the head, and probably stretched the head bolts. The fault was then more clear, the float needle replaced, and the engine went on to do considerable miles there after.

I'm not saying the compression levels where comparable mind, but considerable abuse is possible before all is lost.