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[Jusme]

It MUST be winter time, because...  Got a Gazco VFC Classic style gas fire. All was well until about a week ago. switched on at the wall as usual, click. click. Nothing.. Click. click. click. Ignition... That's OK then. Next couple of days, same thing. Then, NOTHING. Took ceramic coals out, hoovered thoroughly, put it back together, click, ignition.. OK good. Next day, same procedure, plus jiggled a couple of wires about. Hit the switch, click, ignition. Lovely. Next day. NOTHING. Never got it to fire up since. (no spark) Phoned the people who installed it whenever, (was here when we moved in) have never bothered to get back to me? Phoned a local 'sparky' as it must be an electrical problem, 'don't touch that kind of thing mate'.
Gas safe plumber called last night, 'I can hear the relay click in and click out, I would guess the solenoid is not sending a signal to the igniter, not cheap mate, looking at about £100'. You have got to be joking! 'In fact I would say its 'terminal', looking at about £4 - £500'. Thank you so very much, GOODBYE. Have often wondered, when an appliance is gas/electric, do you get a sparky for one side and a plumber for the other?? Couldn't a sparky just put a meter on the components on the board and tell if things are 'kaput'??

[Kevin Wood]

I think the sparky was correct not to work on a gas appliance, TBH.

I wouldn't expect either to have the skills to fault find below the level of the module that's faulty, to be honest, so that's your answer. £100 module. That said, it could just as easily be an electrode that needs a tweak or a loose wire. I've no idea how much of a diagnosis the gas bloke did before pronouncing on the issue. Often, like mechanics, they are pretty clueless.

[AndyRoid]

Couldn't a sparky just put a meter on the components on the board and tell if things are 'kaput'??

Not unless he has a qualification in Electronic Servicing, which is highly unlikely.

If it involves gas, then it's a Gas Safe engineer you need regardless of whether electricity is involved or not.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Gas Safe Engineer, the latter part being the joke 

Anyway, there is not a great deal to go wrong on an ignition setup so check the state of the wire to the spark electrode and the spark gap as a starter

[Jusme]

I've no idea how much of a diagnosis the gas bloke did He asked me 5 or 6 times to switch on and off, then told me that the relay is clicking in and out. ( I know I can hear it) so I reckon the solenoid is kaput. £100 for a solenoid??? Must be a factory set up somewhere making a solenoid just for that fire.... NOT. Gas Safe Engineer, the latter part being the joke  Correct Mark. and the plumber last evening was indeed a 'gas safe' engineer chap

[PhilRich]

Check to see if your model is here:


http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CC0QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.gazcospares.com%2Fcategory-large%2Fvfc-gas-fires%2F&ei=hIaoUon8Fuup7QaqzoDoCQ&usg=AFQjCNHOhoBOHBwXV5wzg2wD6SQOJVhxMA

[omega3000]

Is this not just a thermal coupling issue 

[Jusme]

I don't think so EMD as there is no spark, so nothing to heat the thermacoupling. Thanks for the info Phil, but drew a blank. Phoned the bloke who installed it. 'Blimey mate, I put that in in 2005, that's a really old fire, and there is no way I could get to you for weeks. I started an installation 3 weeks ago and haven't been able to finish that yet due to breakdowns'. ( and this helps me how EXACTLY?) But what he did say which was of interest is, 'I'll bet the extractor fan in the flue has seized up'. Coat on, torch in hand, outside I go..... 

[Kevin Wood]

If there's no spark, it won't be the solenoid, as that controls the flow of gas. Seriously - it'll probably be that the electrodes are now too far apart for the spark to jump the gap, or the HT wire to the electrode has fallen off, broken or shorted against the chassis somewhere. Sounds like he didn't bother to do too much diag to me. In fact, it sounds like he didn't know the basic principle of operation. Some "engineer"!

That said, if it's got a fanned flue, there will probably be an interlock to detect a pressure differential before it starts to fire up, so the second guy might be on the money.

Download a service manual for the device. It'll tell you how it works.

[Jusme]

Thanks for that Kevin, but first. Bearing in mind what the bloke had said to me, I went outside to check the flue....... 'So, where is it' There aint no flue, it has to be the chimney... Why me

[bigegg]

Can you light it by holding a piece of lit newspaper near the sparker thing?

If that works, you can buy a long gas lighter for lighting BBQs etc for about a quid.

Jobs a gud'un

[Taxi_Driver]

I used to have an old wall mounted gas fire in another house.....that regularly failed to spark when i pressed the ignite button. The spark electrode used to go black over time and a gentle rub with emery paper or wire wool, used to sort it out for a while.......maybe thats the problem 

[Taxi_Driver]

Can you light it by holding a piece of lit newspaper near the sparker thing?

If that works, you can buy a long gas lighter for lighting BBQs etc for about a quid.

Jobs a gud'un

That would be a mega old fire , if you could do that....

Gas fires of of a more modern vintage......use a pilot light to heat a thermocouple up, once the thermocouple is upto temp, then and only then will the main burner kick in, using the the pilot to ignite. The piloit light keeps the thermocouple hot.....if the thermocouple cools down, it will shut off the main burner. 

[bigegg]

That's why you hold the newspaper near the sparky thing - it heats the thermocouple up 

[Taxi_Driver]

That's why you hold the newspaper near the sparky thing - it heats the thermocouple up 

Ahhh rite....see what you mean now  Thought you meant just ignite the main burner 

But you would have to light the pilot light.....using your idea....

I couldnt do that on my gas fire.....the pilot light and thermocouple is hidden under the coals....