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[Webby the Bear]

Hi guys,

As per loadsa threads relating to WB bushes, track rods, alignments etc it has come to my attention (cheers TB) that it would be wise to replace these so that when I get to WIM they're able to do the adjustments and won'y turn me away cos they cant move the seized track rods.

Here's a pic of them....

it looks like the end nearest the diff is a ball joint and I'm presuming the end attached to the hub is also a ball joint so im thinking undo the nuts and a few smacks with a hammer where they go through will get these out? then I presume I lengthen my new rear track rods to match the length and then refit?

and I presume I can undo these and the rear suspension wont fall on my head? 

cheers girls 

[Entwood]

The track rod consists of 3 pieces each side .. inner end; central adjuster; outer end. You normally buy just the "failed" bit worst case would be both ends... so once removed you have to unscrew the central portion .. this is the bit that corrodes and requires "persuasion" to undo ... one end is left hand thread, other is right hand, so that turning the central adjusters either shortens both, or lengthens both ...

On reassembly use copious amounts of grease inside the threads to try and avoid future corrosion

The "counting threads" idea is to have the same overall length of the new to the old ... only works if the new TRE's are EXACTLY the same length as the old ... I always double check by trying to ACCURATELY measure from the total length of the trackrod both before and after changing ..

[Webby the Bear]

The track rod consists of 3 pieces each side .. inner end; central adjuster; outer end. You normally buy just the "failed" bit worst case would be both ends... so once removed you have to unscrew the central portion .. this is the bit that corrodes and requires "persuasion" to undo ... one end is left hand thread, other is right hand, so that turning the central adjusters either shortens both, or lengthens both ...

On reassembly use copious amounts of grease inside the threads to try and avoid future corrosion

got ya! thanks entwood. nothings failed or brokem but I want to ensure they will be able to adjust this at WIM. I don't have heat so that's why I thought just replace the whole assembly in case I cant persuade the centre piece out.

[amba]

The entire assembly is quite pricey and posssibly a purchase not required.

If they dont move with normal tools I would suggest getting somebody with a hot spanner to warm them up to free them (if possible )then grease them up as suggested by Mr E

Should this prove unsucesful then would be the time to consider a replacement probably from Jason at AllGermanParts but expect to be spending the top end of £140,when a bit of heat and some copper grease may ?? do the job.

Just MHO though

[Marks DTM Calib]

Its a ball joint only at the wheel end.

I have never had to replace one, just remove, heat up (if required) and free off each joint, clean with a wire brush and re-fit with plenty of grease having counted the turns.

Refit to car.

Even with a new one you will ened to disassemble and grease well.

[omega3000]

You need to be muscle man to separate them  I snapped many tools 

[Marks DTM Calib]

You need to be muscle man to separate them  I snapped many tools 

More practice and better tools needed 

[omega3000]

No heat source at the time , and 15 yrs of rust 

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks guys. sadly as I found out today we're not going to be able to use the worlshop after crimbo...... its all being knocked down...whilst we study  we're being moved near hairdressing. im not joking!

anyway as I don't have a red wrench is it not best to just let wim heat it up (they had to do that on my front tie rod last time)

[iansoutham]

I would just take it down to WIM, maybe soaking the joint first every day for a week beforehand. You never know, they may come undone themselves.

I took my estate down there in April and I know the suspension has never been touched (other than me down 2 rear shocks afterwards) on it, and they got the hot axe out ready to heat them up, tried the spanner anyway first and both sides just came undone nice and easy. You might be as lucky.

[omega3000]

Thanks guys. sadly as I found out today we're not going to be able to use the worlshop after crimbo...... its all being knocked down...whilst we study  we're being moved near hairdressing. im not joking!

anyway as I don't have a red wrench is it not best to just let wim heat it up (they had to do that on my front tie rod last time)

 

[tunnie]

As above rear ones need heat, front ones often need them as well. After few WIM sessions my front ones failed an MOT at 165k, so opted for lemforder replacements. As I need to make a trip to WIM afterwards, the cost/time of that plus originals lasted so long I got decent replacements. Packed full of copper slip, took them apart and all greased up.

Rears still good! Need little adjustment each time, for some reason rears far more expensive than front

[Webby the Bear]

cheers girls. ill soak them for a few nights in penetrating oil.

if WIM couldn't get them cracked loose with heat is this something they#d take off and do off the car or would they say ''cant undo these, fit new ones then we'll align'' or would they do it for me?

im only asking this considering theyre not in mk anymore

[TheBoy]

For a charge, not sure what their hourly rate is for that. Doubt they'd stock such an item, so you'd end up going back anyway.

[Webby the Bear]

For a charge, not sure what their hourly rate is for that. Doubt they'd stock such an item, so you'd end up going back anyway.

Hmmm. might be worth seeing if I can get returnable parts