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[Webby the Bear]

Hi guys, I trust you're all well

We're doing brakes at school today...my favourite job on cars if I'm honest. There's something really relaxing about it 

Anyhoo, being the level I'm now at we're not looking at brake pad/disc replacements as they're easy; instead it's ABS, EPS (?) focused. However we were given a task of doing an initial brake inspection on a car. I could have measured in situ but I adore removing pads/discs and cleaning up the parts and putting them back together so they're moving nicely and properly lubricated (sad I know...don't laugh)

So it comes to removing the calliper bracket. I took my spanner, put it on the fastener (17mm) and whilst holding it on the fastener so it didn't fall off, proceeded to beat the spanner with a hammer. 3 sharp smacks and it was loose.

Now, ignoring the ''improper use of tools'' argument (don't call the Tool Police) I could have sat there all day trying to put pressure on the spanner and not beating on it. But I'm not that strong and that would've taken all day.

So. My question is this... if you have any rusty fastener and assuming you have the space/clearance to get in to the area with a spanner and a hammer, is this the most efficient way to do it? I believe the impacting motion is a darn site better than applying hand pressure as you wont be twisting the fastener and with twisting it off (applying pressure by hand) you're more likely to round it off. impacting motion just knocks it loose.

What do you think?

[Webby the Bear]

Ps, just read that back and that sounds awfully self-righteous. When I said brakes were easy it's only cos I've done them a bunch of times now; I remember my first attempt......

[chrisgixer]

Leverage wins. Or an impact wrench. Remember to leave the steering lock off and turn wheel outboard for better access. Then you can get a torque wrench or bar on there instead.

Re spanners though, I don't like whacking with hammers. I prefer a thump with the palm of the hand. It doesn't bounce the spanner off the nut that way. You'd be suprised how much welly the palm will take, just avoid the thumb muscle, that hurts. 

[Webby the Bear]

Leverage wins. Or an impact wrench. Remember to leave the steering lock off and turn wheel outboard for better access. Then you can get a torque wrench or bar on there instead.

Re spanners though, I don't like whacking with hammers. I prefer a thump with the palm of the hand. It doesn't bounce the spanner off the nut that way. You'd be suprised how much welly the palm will take, just avoid the thumb muscle, that hurts. 

 

I used to hit them with the palm of my hand but now don't for two reasons.... 1. it hurts and I'm a complete fanny  and 2.) I've heard that continuously doing that can cause carpel-tunnel (spell check) syndrome. Not cool when God was short on hands when I was born! 

If a bolt was done up stupid tight is it possible to strip it using the ring spanner/hammer method? I remember trying to get a strut bolt out just using a ring spanner and my strength to remove it.... it stripped it after a while (lucky, it was only Ralf  ). I'm wondering that if I'd have exactly the same scenario if my beating method would have knocked it loose?

[chrisgixer]

The amount of force to undo a nut is set regardless of the undoing method. The hammer just applies more force, the same as more leverage does. So it follows that the spanners is equally likely to slip with a hammer as with a hand, or an impact or more leverage.

It will either undo or slip at the same undoing force. Ignoring offsets on spanners and wrenches that can twist off for a minute, of course.


Not using a hammer does give the user a chance to feel what's going on though. Before it slips.

[Webby the Bear]

That's very true, so you can then stop and find ANother way of removing it. I hadn't thought of that.

[Vamps]

If it works then yes.....

[Webby the Bear]

If it works then yes.....

It definitely works. And to be fair, it's not even marked any of my spanners! But even if it did... it's not going to break and if it does, new spanner 

The main importance to me is to not be faced with a job that I cant complete cos I have no way of getting the stupid bolt out. I'drather break a wrench and it comes loose.

[05omegav6]

Unless you shear the bolt by applying too much force

[Vamps]

Unless you shear the bolt by applying too much force

I don't thing a hammer or mallet would do that, but a scaffold pole with two up can.....

[05omegav6]

 

[Webby the Bear]

 

Yeah, when I said ''hitting it with a hammer'' I didn't mean swinging a sledge at it with a 10 metre run up  Just a solid forceful repetitious thump. I like to use the 1/2" ratchet. It's got a good sized head on it and cant exert too much force. Again, don't call the tool cops 

[dbug]

Yeah, when I said ''hitting it with a hammer'' I didn't mean swinging a sledge at it with a 10 metre run up  Just a solid forceful repetitious thump. I like to use the 1/2" ratchet. It's got a good sized head on it and cant exert too much force. Again, don't call the tool cops 

Good way to knacker a ratchet Webby - best to use a short bar with a hammer, and yes the "shock" method does work just like an impact driver

[Webby the Bear]

Yeah, when I said ''hitting it with a hammer'' I didn't mean swinging a sledge at it with a 10 metre run up  Just a solid forceful repetitious thump. I like to use the 1/2" ratchet. It's got a good sized head on it and cant exert too much force. Again, don't call the tool cops 

Good way to knacker a ratchet Webby - best to use a short bar with a hammer, and yes the "shock" method does work just like an impact driver

Cheers mate..... and to be fair to me I wouldn't do that with my tools 

[Gaffers]

My 2ft breaker bar can be angled so to get behind the hub yet the end sits in a position I can get decent leverage.