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[Terbs]

Hi all...
Both Omega's passed MOT's now, no probs....however I have a dilemma. The gold one is in good shape bodywise, but the Nocturno blue  estate has a bit of rust under the rear wiper and a small piece on each corner of the rear doors. The fella who does the coachwork for son in laws garage says he can do those repairs for £200. He also included the spoiler I wrote about in an earlier thread.
Cost wise, and labour wise etc, against longevity, would it be easier and best, to fit two rear doors and repaint the rest, or repair the rust and repaint. When you buy secondhand doors do they have all the gumage fitted, or do you just get a stripped door. Not sure what is involved in fitting another door/s
I have experience with spraying cars, but that was a long time ago, but I have access to equipment.
Hope this makes sense....I don't want to spend a fortune, as I am slowly winning the battle with swmbo to let me buy a third Omega, a saloon this time. But I want a decnt repair, via whichever route.

[chrisgixer]

Can't think of anything Elite rear doors have that others don't provided they have lecy windows, so swapping doors for non rusty ones could work quite simply. It's just two door pins and an electrical plug, if they come with door cards. But finding good doors is is they key, and doing so for less than £50 each.
 I see your dilemma though as most Tail gates rust in the same place so it'll need repair in a paint shop anyway.

Thing is, they say once rust sets in it WILL return eventually anyway, from what I gather. I presume as the galvanising has gone in the first place, eaten by the rust.

[MV6Matt]

In my experience it depends on the quality of the job if you repair and the condition of the replacement doors if you don't.

I have gone for replacement doors in the past as you can strip down to the metal and have a good look at the condition of the door while it's off the car.
If you do find anything then's the time to sort it out.
Again the respray can be done off the car and then swop once done

HTH

Matthew

[cleggy]

I had rust around the wiper motor, and a small amount on the rear arches where the door open, I had those bits done plus minor bumper scratches and supermarket trolly scuffs for £120 about three years ago. The rust hasn't returned and the coachwork repair man is doing further work for me next month, minor bumper scratches ( must trim the hedge) and a rear wheel arch when the gatepost moved . The cost is about £100 depending what else he sees, good value and he does a superb job.

So depending on the amount of rust and the workmanship I would go for the respray/repair if it lasts as long as mine as done.

Great news on the MOT's  

[Sir Tigger KC]

I presume as the galvanising has gone in the first place, eaten by the rust.

Omega's were galvanized?!     

[Vamps]

I presume as the galvanising has gone in the first place, eaten by the rust.

Omega's were galvanized?!     

Really?.......

[dbug]

Can't think of anything Elite rear doors have that others don't provided they have lecy windows, so swapping doors for non rusty ones could work quite simply. It's just two door pins and an electrical plug, if they come with door cards. But finding good doors is is they key, and doing so for less than £50 each.
 I see your dilemma though as most Tail gates rust in the same place so it'll need repair in a paint shop anyway.

Thing is, they say once rust sets in it WILL return eventually anyway, from what I gather. I presume as the galvanising has gone in the first place, eaten by the rust.

Galvanised metal is designed not to rust. If you have a piece of galvanised metal that has rusted, it is most likely because the protective zinc coating that was applied during the galvanising process has worn off. 

[Rods2]

I wish Omega's were galvanised, my 960 Volvo was and had no rust when I got rid of it at 8.5 years old. Any scratches, stone chips to the galvanised metal were fine with no rust, unlike Omega rust buckets.

[bigegg]

I wish Omega's were galvanised, my 960 Volvo was and had no rust when I got rid of it at 8.5 years old. Any scratches, stone chips to the galvanised metal were fine with no rust, unlike Omega rust buckets.

lexus the same - its a shame the paints so soft that it will scratch with a fingernail (not quite, but seems like it    )

in answer to the OP  - fix the ones you have.
why buy 2nd hand to go to expense of refurbing them anyway + fitting?
UNLESS your doors are so bad that it's uneconomical to repair?

[Terbs]

'in answer to the OP  - fix the ones you have.
why buy 2nd hand to go to expense of refurbing them anyway + fitting?
UNLESS your doors are so bad that it's uneconomical to repair?'

Actually the doors are only just bubbling, (down in the bottom corner only) not showing on the inner face. My concern is that rust always seems to find its way back, even if you go well beyond the area. Had thought of leading in, but have not done that for years. What is the best product nowadays that neutralises rust (if thats not a silly statement)
I was thinking  of  taking out the rust, then setting in a piece of zinc and filling out.

[cem_devecioglu]

rust is simply iron oxide   feo2  .. and nothing can neutralize it.. to prevent rust the mechanism is to cut the relation between fe and O2.. and that can be done by primers like epoxy   but you have to remove old rust first .. and apply primer in several applications to reach enough thickness..

[Terbs]

I thought products (old days it was Kurust) that contained certain chemicals turned the rust black and into something else, magnesium something seems to ring a bell.
In my days of repair and spraying we did not do that, but cut out , fibre glassed, zinced or filled with lead.
Or a door skin.

[Vamps]

I thought products (old days it was Kurust) that contained certain chemicals turned the rust black and into something else, magnesium something seems to ring a bell.
In my days of repair and spraying we did not do that, but cut out , fibre glassed, zinced or filled with lead.
Or a door skin.

Now there is a blast from the past.........

[Bigron]

"terbert", you are correct in saying that rust treatment products converted iron oxide chemically, but not sure about magnesium. Most were based on phosphoric acid, which converted the iron oxide into iron phosphate - black, as you say - and rendered it inert.
Then wash and prime, which is where Kurust comes in, if it is still made? Was it lead-based?

Ron.

[Terbs]

Not sure, Ron....

Magnesium was just a name that seemed right, but probably way off mark.

You won't believe this...I have just found a pot of Kurust in the garage...never looked to see what it was made from.