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[Sp4rkst4rt3r]

Hello,
Car:- 2001 (Y) Omega 2.2L 16v CDXi Auto Petrol (Z22XE) Estste Gold (Z489)

Story Outline:-

I parked my car in the garage November 2009 and haven't used it since.
I bought the car back in 2002 (1 year Old) and it had 24,000 miles on the clock.
It has now covered 144,500 miles with full service history up to Nov 2009.
The reason for this was because I had a Company car.
I decided to get it going again as I no longer have a company car.

Inital Work:-

1 ) Unplugged the Ignition Pack and removed it
2 ) Removed the plugs and fitted new
3 ) Squirted a little engine oil onto the barrels and hand cranked the engine a few times to coat the rings/liners
4 ) Changed engine oil and filter
5 ) Changed fuel filter (Located between fuel tank and rear differential)
6 ) Stripped throttle body, cleaned with Carb-Cleaner and re-fitted with new gasket
7 ) Put 40 litres of premium fuel (with Injector/Fuel additive)
8 ) Changed the Air-Filter
9 ) New 80Ah battery fitted
10) Cranked engine a few times with key
11) Re-fitted coil pack and electrical connections

Small Issues:-

1) Breather pipe from cam cover to air filter ducting (Large Diameter) split at cam cover end
2) Breather pipe from cam cover to rear of throttle body (small diameter) appears to be very soft to touch

Item 1) I cut off damaged end of pipe and re-fitted (New/replacement on order)
Item 2) The small diameter pipe is easily squashed flat and appears to have no rigidity (need new but can't find one)

Starting:-

So I managed to get it running after a few cranks of the engine.
It was running poor initially which I put down to not being run for at least 4 years.
After driving it back and forth a few times to loosen things up it appeared to run fine.
The maintenance light was lit (Engine with a spanner) so I used my CAM OBDII to clear codes.
Ran it for 15 minutes (Tick-over) but it was occasionally coughing as if it was missing a cylinder.

Regardless I booked it in for an MOT this morning 02/06/14 which it failed on two points 

1) Nearside front wheel bearing rough/noisy when rotated [2.5.A.2]
2) Exhaust emissions Lambda reading after 2nd fast idle outside specified limits [7.3.D.4]


Back Home:-

The EML came on whilst at the MOT centre so I checked it as soon as I arrived home.
Plugged in the fault code reader and had one fault.

1) P1070 Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 1)

I cannot drive the car (Test) as I can't get a Tax disc until it passes the MOT (I have insurance).
I have checked all fuel line and vacuum pipes and all seems ok.
I did disconnect the EGR (located between the back of cylinder head and the bulk-head).
This caused the EML to illuminate and the code was the same (P0170).
The car ran perfectly as before but at tick-over it sounds like a slight mis-fire.
Under load the car pulls as it always has, no hesitation but still has the annoyingly slow kick-down 
If I depress the accelerator quickly a get a cough/judder from the engine then the revs rise as expected.
If I depress the accelerator slowly/progressively it is very smooth pick-up.
I did notice a strong smell of Fuel from the exhaust which probably means it's running rich or un-burnt fuel (Mis-Fire).


Summing Up:-

Everything appears to be pointing at the Fuel/Air mixture.

Any/All help/information is gratefully appreciated.


P.S. Sorry for the long post but wanted to give as much information as possible.

P.P.S. This is my first post so please go easy on little old me.

Cheers Dave (Sp4rky)

[Kevin Wood]

Welcome Dave,

Can you look at live data with your code reader? If so, if you can post the data from the car whilst idling at normal running temperature it might be useful.

In addition, if you can post a scan of the emissions printout from the MOT that would be handy.

A fuel trim malfunction means that the engine ECU has tried to adjust the fuelling based on feedback of the fuel mixture from the lambda sensor but has had to make too large a correction so yes, an incorrect fuel mixture is likely and this is probably why it's failed the emissions test. the live data will tell us why, with a bit of luck.

In the meanwhile, make sure there are no splits in any of the intake and breather hoses, as this would allow an air leak that will affect the fuel metering.

But, if you could get the requested data I'm sure we can narrow it down further.

[Sp4rkst4rt3r]

Hi Kevin thanks for the welcome (ill say hello in the proper section later  )

Yes my meter does do 'Live Data'
Do I need to drive the car or just tick-over?

I don't have a scanner so here is the emissions information as requested:-

           Description                              Limits                    Actual Value                 Pass/Fail

Engine Oil Temp           DegC       min 60               ---                ---                Temp Gauge Checked

1st Fast Idle Test

Engine Speed              RPM        min2500         max 3000            ---                     Not Checked

CO                            % vol         ---             max 0.30           0.00                          Pass

HC                            ppm vol      ---             max 200              27                           Pass

Lambda                                   min 0.97         max 1.03           1.23                           Fail


2nd Fast Idle Test

Engine Speed              RPM        min2500         max 3000            ---                     Not Checked

CO                            % vol         ---             max 0.30           0.00                          Pass

HC                            ppm vol      ---             max 200              51                           Pass

Lambda                                   min 0.97         max 1.03           1.35                           Fail


Natural Idle Test

Engine Speed              RPM        min 450          max 1500            ---                     Not Checked

CO                            % vol         ---             max 0.50           0.00                          Pass


Hope the above gives you something to work on.

I'll do live test now and post back in 10-15 mins.

Cheers dave

[Sp4rkst4rt3r]

Hello again Kevin,
I have the 'Live Data' please see below:-

Fuel SYS1  CL,         Using HO2S

Fuel SYS2                    N/A

Coolant (Deg F)            190

ST FTRM1 (%)             12.4

LT FTRM1 (%)             11.7

Engine RPM               780/820

Veh Speed (MPH)           0

Ign Adv (DEG)               3.5

IAT (Deg F)                 100

MAF (lb/min)               0.537

ABSLT TPS (%)          0.3/3.1

02S11 (v)                  0.075         % 74.2

02S12 (v)                  0.055         % 79.6


The 1st reading (Fuel SYS1) did go to:-      OL    FAULT
The fault code was:-                               P0500 Veh Speed Sensor A Malfunction

I reset the codes and did the 'Live Data' again.

I think this cheap nasty code OBD tester is crap, some of the readings were silly.
i.e. Speed = 42 MPH whilst parked in my driveway 
I only bought it because it cleared the fault codes on my ex's car.

That's all I got for now, if you need any more info please give me a shout.

Cheers Dave (Sp4rky)

[Kevin Wood]

OK, well, the good news is that the cat is fine, since, even with the mixture way out, it's cleaning up the CO and HC emissions perfectly.

Lambda value is showing very lean on those emissions results, and you can see that the fuel trim (ST FTRM1 and LT FTRM1) is high too, meaning that the ECU has probably recognised this condition and is trying to add fuel (if we can believe the code reader - some do struggle to give accurate live data). I'm not surprised it's idling poorly.

Another check would be to watch the Lambda sensor live data (02S11). I'm guessing this is sitting at the low voltage we see here instead of cycling up to just under 1v regularly.

Normally, I'd check the MAF sensor reading to see if that's normal. It's reporting 0.537 lb/min which I make to be around 14.6 kg/h. I'd say that would be a little high, so not reading low as some do when they fail (resulting in similar issues).

I don't suppose the exhaust is blowing, is it? That could be introducing air into the exhaust which will confuse the lambda sensor and MOT emissions readings. Then again, that should have been noted at MOT.

It'd be worth a careful check for air leaks into the induction system.

It might be worth unplugging the MAF sensor and starting it up, to see if it idles better. The ECU will try to deduce the correct mixture from other inputs in this case, and if idle is better it might point to a failed MAF. This will raise some more codes related to the MAF sensor, though.

[Sp4rkst4rt3r]

Morning Kevin (and anyone else who wants to chip in) 

I disconnected the MAF sensor and fired up the car.
It took 3 attempts to get the engine to run.
On each attempt the engine started but died within seconds as if it had run out of fuel.
When it did finally start it ran as bad, if not worse than with the MAF connected.
I ran a diagnostic and got 2 codes.

1) P0100   Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit High/Low Input
2) P0110   Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Signal Voltage High/Low
 
I removed the MAF unit from the Air Intake ducting to inspect it.
It was very clean and whilst I was at it I checked the Air-Box and it was clean.
I got some electrical contact cleaner and and gave it a liberal spray.
I cleared the fault codes from the meter.
Re-installed the MAF, plugged it in and fired her up, tick-over was just the same.
I did a scan again and no faults were present/reported.

The exhaust is fine, it is stainless from the 4 into 1 through to the end pipe.
No blowing as this would have been reported and marked as a FAIL on the MOT.

I have checked the vacuum pipes, throttle body and all seem to be fine (i.e. No air leaks)
I am concerned about the small diameter pipe that comes from the rocker cover to the throttle body.
It appears to be very weak (i.e. I can squash it with my fingers easily).

Could the EGR have anything to do with this?
I know it's a swine to get at but is it worth removing it and giving it a clean?

I'll do a full 'Live Data' run to compare with the results I got yesterday.

If you can think of anything else don't be shy 

Cheers Dave (Sp4rky)

[Sp4rkst4rt3r]

Tried to post a pic using the DropBox guide but no joy....sorry 

[omegod]

Morning Kevin (and anyone else who wants to chip in) 

I disconnected the MAF sensor and fired up the car.
It took 3 attempts to get the engine to run.
On each attempt the engine started but died within seconds as if it had run out of fuel.
When it did finally start it ran as bad, if not worse than with the MAF connected.
I ran a diagnostic and got 2 codes.

1) P0100   Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit High/Low Input
2) P0110   Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Signal Voltage High/Low
 
I removed the MAF unit from the Air Intake ducting to inspect it.
It was very clean and whilst I was at it I checked the Air-Box and it was clean.
I got some electrical contact cleaner and and gave it a liberal spray.
I cleared the fault codes from the meter.
Re-installed the MAF, plugged it in and fired her up, tick-over was just the same.
I did a scan again and no faults were present/reported.

The exhaust is fine, it is stainless from the 4 into 1 through to the end pipe.
No blowing as this would have been reported and marked as a FAIL on the MOT.

I have checked the vacuum pipes, throttle body and all seem to be fine (i.e. No air leaks)
I am concerned about the small diameter pipe that comes from the rocker cover to the throttle body.
It appears to be very weak (i.e. I can squash it with my fingers easily).

Could the EGR have anything to do with this?
I know it's a swine to get at but is it worth removing it and giving it a clean?

I'll do a full 'Live Data' run to compare with the results I got yesterday.

If you can think of anything else don't be shy 

Cheers Dave (Sp4rky)

I had that on my Calibra , it was like playdo but it didn't cause it any problems  I'm breaking a 2.2 at the mo if you want any bit's or try parts substitution. MAF's gone though

[Kevin Wood]

Doesn't sound like it's the MAF, then.

EGR might be worth a look. With a tech 2 I'd normally try exercising it to see if it impacts idle when you open and close it. If it's stuck partially open, then it might well cause these type of symptoms.

[Sp4rkst4rt3r]

Hi Kevin,
It might be too late for that, it sounds like the old girl just dropped an exhaust valve 
I revved it to 3500 rpm and when I took my foot off the throttle the engine made a metallic whirring noise.
Before I could shut off the engine something metallic went down the exhaust manifold.
It sounded like it came from bulk-head end of the engine and definitely exhaust side.

I think because it was stood for so long the Cams would have been bone dry.
Didn't think to lift the rocker cover and apply oil to all the bearings in the cams.
It's most likely to be a seized end bearing or it might have been a sticking valve.

The sticking valve might have explained the poor emissions.

Needless to say I'm not rebuilding a 144,000 mile motor it's just not cost effective.
Plus I might still have to pay to sort out the emissions if it wasn't the valve.


Sooooooo hello Omegod,
Can you tell me a little about this 2.2 engine you have.
If it's a runner without tooo many miles I might be interested in it.
Stop selling parts off the engine until you speak the me please 

[omegod]

Hi Kevin,
It might be too late for that, it sounds like the old girl just dropped an exhaust valve 
I revved it to 3500 rpm and when I took my foot off the throttle the engine made a metallic whirring noise.
Before I could shut off the engine something metallic went down the exhaust manifold.
It sounded like it came from bulk-head end of the engine and definitely exhaust side.

I think because it was stood for so long the Cams would have been bone dry.
Didn't think to lift the rocker cover and apply oil to all the bearings in the cams.
It's most likely to be a seized end bearing or it might have been a sticking valve.

The sticking valve might have explained the poor emissions.

Needless to say I'm not rebuilding a 144,000 mile motor it's just not cost effective.
Plus I might still have to pay to sort out the emissions if it wasn't the valve.


Sooooooo hello Omegod,
Can you tell me a little about this 2.2 engine you have.
If it's a runner without tooo many miles I might be interested in it.
Stop selling parts off the engine until you speak the me please 

Christ on a bike that sounds nasty, where abouts in N/W are you?

[Sp4rkst4rt3r]

I'm in Pie Land (Wigan) 

I,m going to take the cam cover off and asses the damage in the morning.

It's definately going to need a new head at this stage.

Hope no pistons have hit any valves or it's throw away time.

Shame really because it still looks brand new inside and the shell is solid.

She still buffs up to a lovely condition.

I may start a new thread once I get the head off.

I think we can safely say we have moved beyond a P0170 fault 


Cheers Dave (Sp4rky)

[omegod]

Pie land 

Are you sure it's not just the cam sensor?  Sorry, bit of an in joke with 2.2's

Theres a good head here if needed, I'm just off the M57 in Knowsley. Hope all's good when the lid comes off

[Sp4rkst4rt3r]

That's good news you being so close (Stalker Alert  )

I was born in Liverpool not far from you, Canny Farm (Stockbridge Village) 

I'll rip the cam cover off tomorrow and let you know the score.

If I need a new head how much for yours?

How many miles has it done etc......

Unless the Cam Sensor got sucked into the cams I don't think it was that I heard chinking down the exhaust manifold 

Do you think the exhaust cam/valve/follower issue might have contributed to my P0170 fault?


Many thanks again for all your help 

Cheers Dave (Sp4rky)

[omegod]

sent you a private message Dave