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[Mr Gav]

This looks like it might fit if a little lightweight
CLICKY

[Mr Gav]

OR THIS

[chrisgixer]

[Mr Gav]

I`m gonna have a chat with one of the guys at autovaux and see if they have the later one in stock, If so I`ll take one of mine off and take it in for comparison and see where we go from there.

[sjc]

Any update on this?  I'm also in need of these due to wear and tear (15 years / 180k)

Thanks

[Diamond Black Geezer]

I'd like to know too. Had NO idea about these wearing and nls.... also had NO idea you're not supposed to jack them on the diff!! Can't remember if I have - perhaps just had an axle stand under there once or twice, but then again she's on 170k + so probably pretty stuffed through age, anyway.

I'm off to the scrappy!!!

[chrisgixer]

Might be a case of mixing up some poly and moulding your own. As Al did.

Poly goop available on ebay. Apparently.

[05omegav6]

Might be a case of mixing up some poly and moulding your own. As Al did.

Poly goop available on ebay. Apparently.

Will try and rustle up a linky thing...

[Mr Gav]

I never followed up any alternatives as the Omega mounts are rebated to give a secure mount and none of the others have this and you would be solely relying on the bolt itself to resist any upward or downward forces.
One thing I`ve thought about though, you could swap out the whole rear subframe for a Senator/Carlton 24v subframe including the diff, This would need the single central mount to be fixed accurately to the chassis rail but wouldn`t be too much of a problem. Upside is nearly all 24v`s had LSD fitted, downside is standard diff mount is also NLS so you would ned to hope the one on page 1 would actually be a viable replacement.

[05omegav6]

Might be a case of mixing up some poly and moulding your own. As Al did.

Poly goop available on ebay. Apparently.

Here do...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fast-Cast-Polyurethane-Liquid-Plastic-Casting-Resin-Kit-1kg-960-ml-/281490331471?pt=UK_Crafts_DrawingSupplies_EH&var=&hash=item418a21974f

[chrisgixer]

It's as much about the spacing where it bolts to the floor pan. In fact the subframe bolt position gives scope to raising/lowering the rear ride height...

Nah. Ride height is set by the spring length, or rather via the spacing between the body and the trailing arm. Spring and pads.

The subframe can be dragging on the floor relatively speaking, via uj's in the drive shaft the subframe position can be where it wants, although the trailing arm pivot position will move. Which would need checking I guess.

[chrisgixer]

If anyone is removing these from a car at the scrappies, make sure the diff or rear subframe doesn't fall on you during removal.

It will be pre loaded by the springs as well.

[Diamond Black Geezer]

If anyone is removing these from a car at the scrappies, make sure the diff or rear subframe doesn't fall on you during removal.

It will be pre loaded by the springs as well.

Oooh - good point! Thanks for the warning!

[05omegav6]

It's as much about the spacing where it bolts to the floor pan. In fact the subframe bolt position gives scope to raising/lowering the rear ride height...

Nah. Ride height is set by the spring length, or rather via the spacing between the body and the trailing arm. Spring and pads.

The subframe can be dragging on the floor relatively speaking, via uj's in the drive shaft the subframe position can be where it wants, although the trailing arm pivot position will move. Which would need checking I guess.

I see what you mean, but moving the rear of the subframe relative to the floor might allow some compensation for rear camber on lowered cars

[chrisgixer]

It's taken me all this time just to work out the ride height thing. You can imagine how how long the camber thing is going to take