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[Magwheels]

I think if the pipe is off the EGR the EML comes on, not sure though.

[firemoth]

But run fine other than that?

[Magwheels]

Not really sure on the dti, did it on my td and no light and no problem but have heard on the dti it can be an issue. I was/am going to see about disconnecting or getting rid of the EGR but have not got round to it.

[VXL V6]

It'll kick off a P0400 code if the vac pipe is disconnected. The car will also have the acceleration of a slug coated in superglue which may get a little annoying.

To test the EGR valve, if you suck on the vacuum connection and put your finger over it the plunger should stay retracted.

[joff]

Are the Pic's after you have cleaned it. As said don't leave the vac pipe off

Did you have it running with the car up on the ramps before you left it for the night, So you know there is fuel to the engine. Then if it starts OK in the morning you know it points to you having an air leak, as normally car is hard to start. You could always test it the other way round on a night you do not have work in the morning (with the front up on the ramps) as when it does not start in the morning you know you have an air leak.

3 area's for air leak with most common and chepest to fix at the top

1. return/leak off pipes £20 approx for kit (trade club Vauxhall parts)
2. top seal on injectors £88-90 on trade club for Vauxhall parts
3. filter cap (never seen this yet ) don't know the price of a new one but i do have a used one.

Hope you have good luck in the morning, as I have a long 12 hour night shift to finish

oh yes the fuel pipe has a 10mm bore

[firemoth]

It was running to drive it up the ramps. I didn't push it up 

I've put the vacuum pipe on, it was just an afterthought.

The egr was after I just scraped crud off it. Don't know if there's more that I should do but only had 5 minutes to look at it. In all honesty I've never had one off before so don't really know what I'm looking at

[joff]

It looks fine, well OK for a good start, sorry but you were answering while i updated my post as i said above fuel pipe bore is 10mm

also look at this one
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=124526.msg1586250#msg1586250

[Magwheels]

Its only a vacuum operated valve. As long as the shaft is clean so it can move up and down it should be fine. Seating area around the end should also be clean so that it can seal against the manifold.

[firemoth]

It looks fine, well OK for a good start, sorry but you were answering while i updated my post as i said above fuel pipe bore is 10mm

also look at this one
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=124526.msg1586250#msg1586250

Yeah seen that one. I'm considering getting the manifold off but beyond that scares me. Don't trust myself

[joff]

It looks fine, well OK for a good start, sorry but you were answering while i updated my post as i said above fuel pipe bore is 10mm

also look at this one
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=124526.msg1586250#msg1586250

Yeah seen that one. I'm considering getting the manifold off but beyond that scares me. Don't trust myself


     If your going to do that, and yes the job is not to bad, you will need the fuel bulb in place first to stop the fuel going bank to the tank as you have to take the injector pipes off to get the manifold out, you only have to take the cam cover off if you need to do the top injector seal.

     You can get both upper and lower manifold joints from any good auto factor's for about £3-5 each. i used Gunk the other week for the first time on my brothers inlet manifold and it worked fine, about £5 from Halfords.

[firemoth]

Update on the leaving it in the ramps overnight. No difference whatsoever

[joff]

Now that bugs me goes away to have a think on this one.

[firemoth]

My thoughts are either glow plugs or temp sensor. Glow plugs because it starts fine at operating temperature, temp sensor because it's worse the warmer the ambient temperature.

[firemoth]

Going to be selling it soon though as we've just bought a galaxy (pick up Sunday) but determined to sort it before I do. Runs perfect so must be something simple

[firemoth]

Found another symptom I think. Just finished work, 20 degrees, engine was reliably an arse to start. About 5 minutes cranking on and off. Then 2 people commented how rough it sounds. I've always said it sometimes does when cold. Now I think about it, it only does and always does after it takes ages to start. I've no idea if or what that could signify, going someone might.....