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[05omegav6]

Modify the sump (its only alloy and easy enough to get welded up)

Well documented in the conversion manuals

[chrisgixer]

Modify the sump (its only alloy and easy enough to get welded up)

Well documented in the conversion manuals

That would, most likely, get the rack in, but the engine/box will still be rubbing on the transmission tunnel.

It "may" be a case of mixing the sump AND Cranked tre's.


It's still thoughts on the cranked tre's I'm after gentlemen.

[aaronjb]

Maybe I'm not imagining this right (draw me a picture on the 14th ) but isn't the problem that the inboard pivot on the rack is too low and not in line with the pivot point of the wishbone .. in which case a cranked TRE will alter the angle of the rack end (to level) but won't change the pivot point and you'd still drag on a load of bump steer as the suspension travels through it's arc, no?

What you have now is:


What you are describing is:


But isn't what you want really this (with the pivot point of the rack end and wishbone coinciding):

[cem_devecioglu]

Modify the sump (its only alloy and easy enough to get welded up)

Well documented in the conversion manuals

That would, most likely, get the rack in, but the engine/box will still be rubbing on the transmission tunnel.

It "may" be a case of mixing the sump AND Cranked tre's.


It's still thoughts on the cranked tre's I'm after gentlemen.

Chris, you are trying to build a non standard V8 car out of factory so expectings things to to be plug and play has no chance..  forget about the cars original design..

[Kevin Wood]

If it's close enough that you can make it work without bending the TREs using a shallow sump and relieving the transmission tunnel a bit, I think that's what I'd do, TBH.

[05omegav6]

If it's close enough that you can make it work without bending the TREs using a shallow sump and relieving the transmission tunnel a bit, I think that's what I'd do, TBH.

Porta power, some heat, some stout wood, no not that , and a suitably sized gentle persuasion device should see it all together nicely...

Alternative for the tunnel is to open it up and rebuild it, but iirc, you don't want to go down that road

Anyways, what's a bit of bump steer between friends

[Gaffers]

Stoud Wood?  Isn't that what Kev's homebrew gives you? 

[05omegav6]

Stoud Wood?  Isn't that what Kev's homebrew gives you? 

Not that one either

[Kevin Wood]

If it's close enough that you can make it work without bending the TREs using a shallow sump and relieving the transmission tunnel a bit, I think that's what I'd do, TBH.

Porta power, some heat, some stout wood, no not that , and a suitably sized gentle persuasion device should see it all together nicely...

Alternative for the tunnel is to open it up and rebuild it, but iirc, you don't want to go down that road

Anyways, what's a bit of bump steer between friends

You don't want to persuade it, you want to tell it. Plasma cutter + welder.

[Kevin Wood]

Stoud Wood?  Isn't that what Kev's homebrew gives you? 

Quite the opposite, normally. 

That reminds me. I've got a brew in the garage that's had 2 "bottle bombs". Must do something with it before any more collateral damage occurs.

[05omegav6]

Thee and wee know that, but when suggested, iirc Chris wasn't exactly keen on the idea

[Gaffers]

Stoud Wood?  Isn't that what Kev's homebrew gives you? 

Quite the opposite, normally. 

That reminds me. I've got a brew in the garage that's had 2 "bottle bombs". Must do something with it before any more collateral damage occurs.

One of my jobs over leave is to bottle/keg the brews I have waiting in the kitchen.  If I make it to Newent it will certainly be on tap

[chrisgixer]

If it's close enough that you can make it work without bending the TREs using a shallow sump and relieving the transmission tunnel a bit, I think that's what I'd do, TBH.

Yes ok I see where the description has gone off course. "Bending" no. But....nearly there.

So the inner ball joint HAS to be in the correct place, in line with the wishbone pivot, vertically on the centre line pivot. But that the rack body must be lower to miss the engine. (Ignoring modding the sump for a minute)

So, in order to connect the two components there would have to be a vertical connection added. Say, for argument sake, a one inch square solid metal steel bar 40(?)mm long with a hole drilled in each end. Fitted vertically. So the bottom hole bolts to the rack end, where the tre once was in its lower position, the top hole bolts to the tre inner ball joint end 40mm directly above.

By 40mm I mean whatever the distance has to be. Might be nearer 50mm.

But does that make sense? And, is it structurally string enough? Would the rack shaft bend in corners? Would it then binde up.


The pic in post 12 doesn't appear to make sense to anyone, but it shows what I mean. Except, that pic shows end plates. And they point rearward, rather than vertically as mine would, to allow the rack body to be forward of the engine, but allows the tre ball joints to be in the correct/other/wherever place, as needed.

It's the ball joint position that's key, the tre rods can be whatever shape they want to reach the wheel. Purely bending the rod, means little as Aaron is struggling with I think. By that description one could argue oe omega rods are cranked. But no that won't help in this application, well, it might if the rods four the wheel on full lock of course.

So by cranking tre's I mean, cranking the pivot points, not the rods themselves. Or even crank the rack.

Rod horizontal to ball joint->------o                                 o-------- >hub(ditto opposite<)
                    40mm con rod ->    |            ^sump^         |
           Bolt to end of rack shaft->o --------rack body------o

[chrisgixer]

Quoted for pic reference.

So if this was an omega, with a front mounted rack,  your looking from under the self levelling pump/drivers front fog light area, at the front of the engine, see the aux pulleys etc. The extra steelwork/slider is added to prevent flex of the rack shaft. The round bar is purely a mounting bracket.

Here's the sort of solution I mean. You can see the end plates on the rack by the oil filter. Pointing rearward though, where as I would need them to,point up vertically.



The sliding bar to the rear, I presume, is to stop the rack shaft twisting/rotating in the body.

Pick taken from here. I haven't read it yet, just plundered the pic.
http://www.build-threads.com/build-threads/speedhunters-one-year-on/

[05omegav6]

Bear with me on this... is there any scope in modifying the subframe to fit the rack into it in a forward location?

Hub/knuckle assembly can be reversed, ie swapped left to right easily enough. Hell, if you're already into modified sump territory, then notch the sump to accommodate the rack in a forward position...

Wouldn't be the first car to have that done, the Sierra/Granada 4x4 ran the front axle through the sump on both four pot and v6 versions

This could also give a bit more scope for the steering shaft/exhaust area, by flattening the angle of the shaft slightly