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[carswaps]

Just done the timing belt and water pump on my 2001 3.2 MV6.
Hired the locking kit and also already had the Omega V6 Cambelt dvd from when I did my Vectra V6.
I used a Gates powergrip kit.
When you start off and your timed up, you line up the two white lines on the belt with the TDC crank mark then use the wedge to stop the belt moving.
But no way could I get the 4 x cam white lines on the belt to line up with cam markings! Why is this? wrong belt?
Also on the Dvd after the belt is fitted, the idlers are set to 12 oclock and 3 oclock, and the tensioner tensioned.
You turn the engine over until up to TDC again, check the timing and then adjust bank 3+4 with the bottom idler and 1+2 with the top idler.
The DVD shows the crank lock tool fitted only when adjusting both banks and what I found was after adjusting bank 3+4 you must fit the cam locking tool on that bank before adjusting 1+2 otherwise when you do adjust 1+2 it also moves 3+4.
Any info on this?

The car is back together again and runs sweet 

[kcl]

Just done the timing belt and water pump on my 2001 3.2 MV6.
Hired the locking kit and also already had the Omega V6 Cambelt dvd from when I did my Vectra V6.
I used a Gates powergrip kit.
When you start off and your timed up, you line up the two white lines on the belt with the TDC crank mark then use the wedge to stop the belt moving.
But no way could I get the 4 x cam white lines on the belt to line up with cam markings! Why is this? wrong belt?
Also on the Dvd after the belt is fitted, the idlers are set to 12 oclock and 3 oclock, and the tensioner tensioned.
You turn the engine over until up to TDC again, check the timing and then adjust bank 3+4 with the bottom idler and 1+2 with the top idler.
The DVD shows the crank lock tool fitted only when adjusting both banks and what I found was after adjusting bank 3+4 you must fit the cam locking tool on that bank before adjusting 1+2 otherwise when you do adjust 1+2 it also moves 3+4.
Any info on this?

The car is back together again and runs sweet 

I think your belt has white AND green lines/markings? If this is the case, you must put green double line inline with crank and use green lines on "left" bank cams (looking from front of engine towards cabin). On other two cams white lines.

You have the later setup with only one adjustable roller (lower roller is "solid")? When the belt is on and tension set you should end up close to spot-on timing. If needed, adjust with top roller (between heads), 1+2 and 3+4 just can not be both out to different directions, so you will end up correct timing. Was I unclear enough :-)

[carswaps]

No both idlers are adjustable.
Lower adjusts 3+4 and top adjusts 1+2.

[Andy B]

No both idlers are adjustable.
Lower adjusts 3+4 and top adjusts 1+2.

You should only have one adjust or your 3.2 

[carswaps]

No both idlers are adjustable.
Lower adjusts 3+4 and top adjusts 1+2.

You should only have one adjust or your 3.2 

here is a pic of mine before removing belt! def got 2 x adjustable idlers

And here is the new kit fitted.


Mine is a 2001 on a Y 3.2 MV6
It is also fitted with the earlier 2.5/3.0 V6 Power steering pump on?

[Andy B]

I did say should   

[carswaps]

I did say should   

Lol,
Does that mean I have some sort of intermediate 3.2 using the older set up?

[kcl]

I did say should   

Lol,
Does that mean I have some sort of intermediate 3.2 using the older set up?

Looks like that. Quite odd.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Its not odd at all, the first 6-12 months of 3.2 production engine had the earlier (and generally more reliable) power steering pump and the same cambelt pulley/idler setup as the later 2.5/3.0.

As for the query regarding locking cams 3-4 whilst setting the 1-2 timing, if the belt is tight and the crank locked, then the cams should not move unless there is slack in the right side belt run for some reason.

[carswaps]

The main tensioner I took off  had 01 stamped in it and I also checked that it had 01 on the new one.
According to the DVD the earlier type had EB stamped into them and that the 01 is the later type.
I have just had a look on the tinter web and can't find any other 3.2 V6 with a solid lower idler? they all have an offset lower idler which can be adjusted.
I have found this pic of a 3.0 V6 with the lower idler just above the crank ...but even that is offset and adjustable.

I am quite sure that my engine is the later style?
Can anyone confirm?

[carswaps]

Its not odd at all, the first 6-12 months of 3.2 production engine had the earlier (and generally more reliable) power steering pump and the same cambelt pulley/idler setup as the later 2.5/3.0.

As for the query regarding locking cams 3-4 whilst setting the 1-2 timing, if the belt is tight and the crank locked, then the cams should not move unless there is slack in the right side belt run for some reason.

Ah that makes sense Cheers 

[Marks DTM Calib]

For info, when the video was made the later setup as used on the 2002 production year 2.6/3.2 had not yet seen a cambelt change in any numbers (all less than 4 years old) and hence why its not mentioned in the video. 

[Marks DTM Calib]

And to just complete the story, you can fit any of the V6 cam belt kits to any of the engines as long as you keep the tensioner back plate from the original (swapping the idler and tensioner over obviously and being aware of the single idler spacer (use original and ch3eck belt alignment).

Plus fitting an adjustable idler in place of the standard late non adjustable one is no issue either, just set it up as per the early setups.

All very simples.

[chrisgixer]

Set 3 and 4 first with lower idler adjustment. Then do 1 and 2 with the top adjuster. Appologies if that's I've mid read the question though.

And ignore the marks on the belt. They mean nothing as they will never line up after the first revolution anyway. The marks on the timing kit are all that matter.

Most belts have no marks at all.

[carswaps]

Set 3 and 4 first with lower idler adjustment. Then do 1 and 2 with the top adjuster. Appologies if that's I've mid read the question though.

And ignore the marks on the belt. They mean nothing as they will never line up after the first revolution anyway. The marks on the timing kit are all that matter.

Most belts have no marks at all.

Yeah that's what I,ve done cheers