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[duke101]

Going to change my cambelt following the dvd guide on my 2000 V6 Estate...started to strip it down ,got to the bit where im sucking/blowing on the 1 way air valve to test it and mine is faulty as I can suck....however I cant make out what is said regarding "secondary air injection pipe ? " if the valve is faulty. I have a good spare valve but wondering if I need to do anything else?

[TheBoy]

If the valve is faulty, it needs to be replaced, or the SAI removed completely (a better solution).

The latter is achieved by getting some bungs for where the SAI valave assembly joins the 2 small pipes leading to manifold.  The solenoid near the radiator must remain electrically connected to keep ECU happy.

[duke101]

Thank you TB. I think he said something like if the valve was stuck the pipes ccould melt? Two questions to ask re cambelt change and they may seem stupid ones but I rather ask than do it wrong. 

1)  When I fit the new belt and go to accurately time it by adjusting the tensioner pulleys to line up cams 1+2 and 3+4 spot on by moving the eccentric tensioner pulley does the nut in the centre need slackening off?  I assume not as the outer turns when the belt moves.

2)  What is the point of lining the new belt up with the yellow lines on it? To allow a measured length of belt between the toothed pulleys? Reason I ask is that when I lock the existing belt in position ready to remove it the yellow lines dont appear to line up with anything, yet to fit the new belt they are all aligned roughly with the timing marks.

[TheBoy]

Thank you TB. I think he said something like if the valve was stuck the pipes ccould melt? Two questions to ask re cambelt change and they may seem stupid ones but I rather ask than do it wrong. 

You end up melting the rubber pipe that goes from the solenoid back to the pump

1)  When I fit the new belt and go to accurately time it by adjusting the tensioner pulleys to line up cams 1+2 and 3+4 spot on by moving the eccentric tensioner pulley does the nut in the centre need slackening off?  I assume not as the outer turns when the belt moves.

Yes, else you can't rotate eccentric bit (or it loosens the bolt doing so). You loosen centre bolt, adjust and hold with 30mm spanner, then nip centre bolt up again, then remove 30mm spanner. If that makes sense?

2)  What is the point of lining the new belt up with the yellow lines on it? To allow a measured length of belt between the toothed pulleys? Reason I ask is that when I lock the existing belt in position ready to remove it the yellow lines dont appear to line up with anything, yet to fit the new belt they are all aligned roughly with the timing marks.

Just to aid initial fitment. Some new belts come with no markings now, as not really needed.  As long as the timing tools line up, that all that matters

[TheBoy]

Oh, and your presenter on the OOF V6 cambelt DVD is our very own Marks DTM Calib.

[carswaps]

1)  When I fit the new belt and go to accurately time it by adjusting the tensioner pulleys to line up cams 1+2 and 3+4 spot on by moving the eccentric tensioner pulley does the nut in the centre need slackening off?  I assume not as the outer turns when the belt moves.

2)  What is the point of lining the new belt up with the yellow lines on it? To allow a measured length of belt between the toothed pulleys? Reason I ask is that when I lock the existing belt in position ready to remove it the yellow lines dont appear to line up with anything, yet to fit the new belt they are all aligned roughly with the timing marks.

1st question, do you have the correct cam and crank locking tool? if not don't bother even attempting this job!

When you turn either idler anti clockwise it WILL slacken the bolt (or at least it did on mine before the final torque) you will have to re-tighten and torque them both.
You will also need a 30mm deep ring spanner to do this.
Forget the lines on the belts, they are a load of crap! if the crank and cams are timed up that's all that matters.
Just done my 3.2 V6 a few weeks ago and the best advice I can give is when you get to the point of new belt on, tensioner tensioned, wind the engine over (clock wise) 360 degrees crank - 720 cams, crank lock on, then align bank 3+4 using the lower tensioner, re-tighten lower tensioner bolt trying not to move it, then insert the locking tool in 3+4 (so now you have crank and 3+4 locked) then proceed to adjust 1+2 with the top tensioner, re-tighten top tensioner bolt then fit 1+2 locking tool.
So now you have 1+2 and 3+4 and the crank all locked, now you can re-tension the tensioner.
take all the locks out, spin engine over by hand again and all the marks will be aligned.

[duke101]

Many thanks TB....and I wondered who it was on the DVD which is very helpful and was quickly delivered thank you.

Carswops....Yes I bought a Sykes Pickavant timing kit to do the job...just couldnt understand the point of the marks on the belt...and now seems there really is no point for them. I did turn the idler and it did slacken the bolt but just wanted clarification.Your other tips are welcome also.Thank you for your help.