To be honest the guide basically says
1) Try to charge the battery, ideally using a mains powered battery charger for a couple of hours, to ensure it is likely to be fully charged.
2) Allow the battery to settle for perhaps 15 minutes after charging so the terminal voltage reflecs its' true condition.
3) Measure the terminal voltage of the battery.
4) Apply some load (e.g. car headlights) and watch the terminal voltage for a minute or two.
5) Switch off all loads, start the engine, and, ideally, have someone watching the battery voltage while cranking the engine.
6) Measure the terminal voltage with engine at a normal idling speed.
7) Increase engine speed to a fast idle (2,000 RPM) and measure the voltage.

Add some electrical load (headlights, blower fan, heated rear window) and measure the voltage at idle speed.
9) Increase engine speed to a fast idle (2,000 RPM) and measure the voltage.
10) Check electrical connections to battery, starter and alternator and also all chassis ground connections in the engine bay for heat.
And without being rude, running the engine looking at the needle on a voltmeter, and flicking headlamps on etc.. isn't really beyond the ability of anyone, and it could save you the cost of a new alternator. I suspect alternator, too, myself, but if you do the above, at the very least you've actually diagnosed that is isn't the battery, and learned something in the process.