Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[05omegav6]

Sunderland was mentioned iirc, so Broccie is probably the nearest

[viper]

Following a live diagnosis with Tech2, the garage has informed me that both my MAF's are working (old and new) and that the temperature sensor is also working.

The garage suggested it could be a blocked or poor spray pattern by a fuel injector at idle but could not suggest any other fault.

They erased all the fault codes and when I got home I carried out the 'paperclip test'. It showed only one fault - 19 Crank Shaft Sensor. (one of the codes erased by the garage was 31)

This was replaced only the other week with a Bosch part bought from the Vauxhall dealership.

If it was the Crank Shaft Sensor I would have thought the car would not start?

Again, the car always starts. It only develops difficulty idling and this results in no power when you apply the throttle. Leading to the car stalling.

At a complete loss!

[Marks DTM Calib]

Following a live diagnosis with Tech2, the garage has informed me that both my MAF's are working (old and new) and that the temperature sensor is also working.

The garage suggested it could be a blocked or poor spray pattern by a fuel injector at idle but could not suggest any other fault.

They erased all the fault codes and when I got home I carried out the 'paperclip test'. It showed only one fault - 19 Crank Shaft Sensor. (one of the codes erased by the garage was 31)

This was replaced only the other week with a Bosch part bought from the Vauxhall dealership.

If it was the Crank Shaft Sensor I would have thought the car would not start?

Again, the car always starts. It only develops difficulty idling and this results in no power when you apply the throttle. Leading to the car stalling.

At a complete loss!

Your answer has arrived......you often see MAF fault codes thrown when the crank sensor is tired.

Fuel injector spray pattern is cobblers, demonstrates little more than a lack of understanding by those advising it as this would impact fuel trims and not throw MAF faults

[chrisgixer]

Crank sensor often causes starting difficulties. Then eventually fails altogether. It can also throw odd codes and no 19 itself. It can cause the car to stall while driving, rarely, or cause other oddness like starting second turn of the key, while always refusing to start on the first turn of the key.

Sadly faulty genuine crank sensors do happen as well.

I wonder is it worth checking the ends of the sensor for iron fillings first? Or just replace and be done.

Irritating fault though. You have my sympathies. If that helps at all

[Andy H]

Following a live diagnosis with Tech2, the garage has informed me that both my MAF's are working (old and new) and that the temperature sensor is also working.

The garage suggested it could be a blocked or poor spray pattern by a fuel injector at idle but could not suggest any other fault.

They erased all the fault codes and when I got home I carried out the 'paperclip test'. It showed only one fault - 19 Crank Shaft Sensor. (one of the codes erased by the garage was 31)

This was replaced only the other week with a Bosch part bought from the Vauxhall dealership.

If it was the Crank Shaft Sensor I would have thought the car would not start?

Again, the car always starts. It only develops difficulty idling and this results in no power when you apply the throttle. Leading to the car stalling.

At a complete loss!

Have you tried unplugging the ECU from it's multipin connector & checking for corrosion and/or water ingress? Also the big circular plug beside the fuse box? sometimes the locking ring is loose and the plug can become partially detached.

[viper]

Vauxhall Dealership has said they will test the Crankshaft sensor at my expense of £98+vat. If the part is faulty - they will fit another at no cost. If they believe that it could be some other factor - they will charge me the £98+VAT.

Again - the car always starts. It becomes lumpy and difficult to idle. Then stalls. There is never any problem starting the car.

I doubt very much that the sensor is the issue.

Does unplugging the multi-pin from the ECU cause any problems? Erase anything? Obviously, I would not do so with the ignition on.

Thanks for all your kind efforts so far - each is greatly appreciated - thank you

[Marks DTM Calib]

The crank sensor is the issue but the amount they are quoting is extortionate.

You need to make absolutely sure its the correct sensor as some are slightly different lengths and it has a big impact on the operation.

[Andy H]

Vauxhall Dealership has said they will test the Crankshaft sensor at my expense of £98+vat. If the part is faulty - they will fit another at no cost. If they believe that it could be some other factor - they will charge me the £98+VAT.

Again - the car always starts. It becomes lumpy and difficult to idle. Then stalls. There is never any problem starting the car.

I doubt very much that the sensor is the issue.

Does unplugging the multi-pin from the ECU cause any problems? Erase anything? Obviously, I would not do so with the ignition on.

Thanks for all your kind efforts so far - each is greatly appreciated - thank you

I don't know if there are any permanent/unswitched feeds to the ECU. If you want to be ultra safe you could disconnect the battery a few minutes before disconnecting the ECU.

You won't lose any important data in the ECU - It might have to re-learn the fuel trims (but given the issues you are having that may not be a bad thing).

Have a read of Debs guide to Crank Sensor Variants

[Shackeng]

Vauxhall Dealership has said they will test the Crankshaft sensor at my expense of £98+vat. If the part is faulty - they will fit another at no cost. If they believe that it could be some other factor - they will charge me the £98+VAT.

Again - the car always starts. It becomes lumpy and difficult to idle. Then stalls. There is never any problem starting the car.

I doubt very much that the sensor is the issue.

Does unplugging the multi-pin from the ECU cause any problems? Erase anything? Obviously, I would not do so with the ignition on.

Thanks for all your kind efforts so far - each is greatly appreciated - thank you

I don't know if there are any permanent/unswitched feeds to the ECU. If you want to be ultra safe you could disconnect the battery a few minutes before disconnecting the ECU.

You won't lose any important data in the ECU - It might have to re-learn the fuel trims (but given the issues you are having that may not be a bad thing).

Have a read of Debs guide to Crank Sensor Variants

Engine is a 3.0.

[chrisgixer]

The crank sensor is the issue but the amount they are quoting is extortionate.

You need to make absolutely sure its the correct sensor as some are slightly different lengths and it has a big impact on the operation.

V, not wanting to sound patronising but, Mark has spoken, there a a few voices you can trust on here, and Mark is most certainly one of them. But neither he or I enjoy my tongue up his arris so I won't go on. But you do need to trust what he says.

If it was my car, I'd go directly to the dealer and buy a new sensor. No copies, no cheap Chinese shite or pattern sensors mind. New, genuine, correct part.

While I agree your symptoms are unusual, they are not uncommon to crank sensor faults. They can be sneaky little bastards sometimes those sensors.

[Andy H]

The crank sensor is the issue but the amount they are quoting is extortionate.

You need to make absolutely sure its the correct sensor as some are slightly different lengths and it has a big impact on the operation.

V, not wanting to sound patronising but, Mark has spoken, there a a few voices you can trust on here, and Mark is most certainly one of them. But neither he or I enjoy my tongue up his arris so I won't go on. But you do need to trust what he says.

If it was my car, I'd go directly to the dealer and buy a new sensor. No copies, no cheap Chinese shite or pattern sensors mind. New, genuine, correct part.

While I agree your symptoms are unusual, they are not uncommon to crank sensor faults. They can be sneaky little bastards sometimes those sensors.

Unless I have missed something V has already fitted a new genuine sensor bought from a VX dealer

& the price the dealer wants to charge to test the sensor is about the same as buying a new sensor on Trade Club......

[terry paget]

As reported before, on 11Dec13 my 2.5 Omega petrol estate refused to start. I bought a cheap e-bay crank sensor (£25), fitted it, fault cured. 29 Dec13 car developed misfire, so I bought and fitted a genuine Vx crank sensor from Bellinger Grove, misfire persisted. I changed plugs and coil pack, fault cured. Early Jan14 engine stopped on a journey, would not restart. I rang wife to bring towbar and spare car. When she arrived the engine restarted, so I drove it home, recognising failing crank sensor sympton. I refitted cheap crank sensor, fault cured. I returned genuine crank sensor to Bellinger Grove, main dealer, demanding replacement or refund. After a battle I got it.

New genuine Vx crank sensors do fail.

[dbug]

The crank sensor is the issue but the amount they are quoting is extortionate.

You need to make absolutely sure its the correct sensor as some are slightly different lengths and it has a big impact on the operation.

V, not wanting to sound patronising but, Mark has spoken, there a a few voices you can trust on here, and Mark is most certainly one of them. But neither he or I enjoy my tongue up his arris so I won't go on. But you do need to trust what he says.

If it was my car, I'd go directly to the dealer and buy a new sensor. No copies, no cheap Chinese shite or pattern sensors mind. New, genuine, correct part.

While I agree your symptoms are unusual, they are not uncommon to crank sensor faults. They can be sneaky little bastards sometimes those sensors.

Unless I have missed something V has already fitted a new genuine sensor bought from a VX dealer

& the price the dealer wants to charge to test the sensor is about the same as buying a new sensor on Trade Club......

Andy, I had a brand new Vx crank sensor fail in around a month on my old Elite to the point where car totally refused to start.  Vx solution re warranty - bring car to them (won't start and 11 miles away), and they'll test it - if faulty will replace foc, if not will charge for workshop time.  Cheaper to buy a new sensor - when fitted cured mine and that one lasted ok.

[chrisgixer]

Just wondering how viper can guarantee acquiring the correct sensor. I mean is it safe to presume the correct one is currently fitted? And that EPC doesn't always help the parts guys narrow it down to one.

Given it's raised a fault I presume not. Might not be faulty just incorrect perhaps.


Not familiar with the 3.0 and 2.5 sensors being a 3.2 owner and all. The loom plug shape has to fit. That's all I know. (Or need to know, for a 3.2)

[Marks DTM Calib]

The only test Vx can do is to read the fault codes.....if you have a code 19 then its simple.....beware thoguh as they might clear the code and then say 'its not come back' (in the 5 ms which we observed it).

However, be assured that a code 19, unlike a 31, is a very accurate indicator that the crank sensor is NFG