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Author Topic: Speaker Question  (Read 2174 times)

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Gaffers

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Re: Speaker Question
« Reply #15 on: 17 December 2014, 12:11:01 »

@Kev the solution is a RPi with the Adafruit 2.8in TFT screen.  A custom web interface forced on to the user obviously compiled specifically for me.  The bonus of this is power usage is low and once i have a working image I can clone it and if it ever crashes just replace the SD card and reboot.  I will look on eBay but little will change my mind now I fear.  Good heads up though :y

And I have already test driven that hack myself, not impressed with it and it doesn't completely fit my needs.  I did find a similar product just for lights with dimmer option too but again it's the insecure protocol that doesn't sit right with me.  I know it's only lights but with my job I be loath to have a security weakness in my home system ;D  I have seen articles on how to create your own secure wireless interface with a PI, after that it would just be a case of fitting the relays to the receiver to control the curcuits.  The issue with that is that I will have issues getting it past a Part P inspection.  Hence z or lightwave (and the additional cost) :(

@Mark - I had no idea.  Glad I asked....right off to look at mains powered amps :y
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Gaffers

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Re: Speaker Question
« Reply #16 on: 17 December 2014, 12:22:23 »

And of course the screen is set to timeout in order to save on power :y
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Kevin Wood

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Re: Speaker Question
« Reply #17 on: 17 December 2014, 15:02:06 »

@Kev the solution is a RPi with the Adafruit 2.8in TFT screen.  A custom web interface forced on to the user obviously compiled specifically for me.  The bonus of this is power usage is low and once i have a working image I can clone it and if it ever crashes just replace the SD card and reboot.  I will look on eBay but little will change my mind now I fear.  Good heads up though :y

And I have already test driven that hack myself, not impressed with it and it doesn't completely fit my needs.  I did find a similar product just for lights with dimmer option too but again it's the insecure protocol that doesn't sit right with me.  I know it's only lights but with my job I be loath to have a security weakness in my home system ;D  I have seen articles on how to create your own secure wireless interface with a PI, after that it would just be a case of fitting the relays to the receiver to control the curcuits.  The issue with that is that I will have issues getting it past a Part P inspection.  Hence z or lightwave (and the additional cost) :(

@Mark - I had no idea.  Glad I asked....right off to look at mains powered amps :y

OK on that. You still have to package up the Pi+screen to look nice, though. ;) That'd be my downfall with that solution, I think.

I have put a RFM12B module on my central node, so I can code up support for pretty much any RF protocol given the spec. and control it very flexibly. I already have some temperature measurement nodes built. I have it in mind to make some more secure mains switching devices, but the craplin ones will do for now, and the worst that will happen is that a couple of pence appear on or disappear from the leccy bill.

I don't really feel the need to control wall light switches so don't need it to be part of the permanent installation (not that part P would bother me overly, TBH).

The problem with all off-the-shelf HA stuff is that nothing integrates with anything else, and nothing does everything well, IMHO. It's about time some open standards got established and supported.

You might also want to have a look at active speakers. They often go into standby in the absence of audio input, so the switching issue is solved, and they might make a neat solution with no extra "boxes". Some are probably cheaper than you could make them yourself, TBH, and they go all the way up to studio monitor stuff that would certainly be quite acceptable in a "main" Hi-Fi system IMHO (albeit at a cost).
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Taxi_Driver

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Re: Speaker Question
« Reply #18 on: 17 December 2014, 17:41:49 »

They are AGM  atteries so yes they can really take some abuse. But you confirmed my suspicions, i shall top them up this weekend.

As for handling the load. There are 2 in parallel with 64ah capacity and if i need more then i will just add some kore. Each of the PIs draw 0.5a and obviously the music wont be on all the time......honest.....

The problem with putting them in parallel, unless they are new batteries, the stronger battery will drain into the weaker one....effectively making the batteries only as good as the weakest one...
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tigers_gonads

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Re: Speaker Question
« Reply #19 on: 18 December 2014, 07:01:19 »

My tuppence worth....

Buy an enclosed speaker set-up, and sound deaden everything behind the speaker/s to give more of a thump than loss of bass it will be reflected back down, BUT the ceiling speakers won't create lots of bass anyway as the frequency response isn't there for those speakers...

If you intend to run everything off 12V - buy a decent automotive amplifier, they are very very good at what they do as they are built to produce 'big' sounds more than the Class D that you are currently using, that will give a more general sound... The other way, if you intend to use ceiling speakers, use component speakers instead of an 'all in one'... Component speakers systems are readily available from most automotive outlets like Halfords etc.. for reasonable outlay... but you get what you pay for with speakers....

Im sure there will be others on here that will know a hell of a lot more and be able to explain better what you might need... Basically the speakers you are using need an enclosure behind them to get any real bass produced at relatively low volumes...


Problem with car amps is they are designed to run best around the 14 volt mark and sound quality drops off big style at anything bellow 12.5 volts.

Matt, what cable are you using over what sort of lengths ?
With such low power output from the amp, your going to need decent quality cable too.
Again, keep the cable lengths the same if possible.
Agree that your pishing in the wind by using open backed speakers with such low grunt from the amp

I've just re run all my 6 surround speakers in this stuff because i'd ended up using a couple of different type with the original install.

http://www.richersounds.com/product/speaker-cables/qed/micro/qed-micro

Must say it sounds a hell of a lot better with equal length cable runs  :-[



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