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[Twintop]

Could be a cheap gasket used,might be worth just refitting new gasket and go from there

[aaronjb]

Wow, that is an impressively clean 'washed' track!  I don't think I've ever seen a tell-tale quite that obvious when I've pulled a HG off.

[terry paget]

Gentlemen, I know it's asking a lot of Omega men, but have you by any chance any idea which head gasket I should fit to a 2004 Streetwise 1.4? It seems that originally it was fitted with a steel elastomer gasket. I read the K engine fitted to the Freelander was fitted with a stainless steel laminated gasket after 2006. The gasket which came off was a laminated stainless steel gasket. The Rover Forum is unclear on this matter, they say use the elastomer gasket unless the cylinders are more than 003" proud of the block.
Haynes says I must measure the length of the head bolts. Screwed hand tight into the block their heads should be no more than 97mm above the block; if longer, they should be replaced.
Please advise!

[henryd]

If in doubt use the latest version of the elastomer gasket,its much more tolerant of low liner height,Payen BW750 is the one you need if going that route.

[henryd]

If in doubt use the latest version of the elastomer gasket,its much more tolerant of low liner height,Payen BW750 is the one you need if going that route.

The older versions are red,latest is blue

[Twintop]

Be safe use new stretch bolts 

[terry paget]

Thank you gentlemen. I have ordered a BW750 gasket, blue, and a set of 10 new head bolts.

[henryd]

Thank you gentlemen. I have ordered a BW750 gasket, blue, and a set of 10 new head bolts.

Good luck with it Terry,hope it all ends well.

[terry paget]

Thanks for the advice and encouragement.
This engine is not so primitive as I expected. I used to run BMC A series cast iron lumps. This Rover has an alloy head and block, 16 valves and a plastic inlet manifold. It also has an oil rail, which resides in the sump above the oil, and I think contains the threads for the head bolts. This has been updated for a stiffer item. The exhaust manifold is a tubes and plate affair, not the cast lump on Omegas that eventually cracks. Pics follow.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bsud94yfw7a7asc/block50%25.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hvadq6u1jpe2i4w/manifolds50%25.jpg?dl=0

[henryd]

Pay close attention to the head mating surface Terry,make sure that the gasket fire rings haven't left an imprint in the surface,if it has then have it skimmed but then fit a stainless steel head saver shim as the skimming will leave the head surface "soft",the shim is glued to the head with Wellseal jointing compond and restores the hard surface for the fire rings to bear against.

[terry paget]

Thanks Henryd. I can detect no deformation of the head where the fire rings were, using a straight edge. In fact, the head seems impressively level.

[henryd]

Thanks Henryd. I can detect no deformation of the head where the fire rings were, using a straight edge. In fact, the head seems impressively level.

Thats good news although if the head has been skimmed in the past I would still be tempted to use a head saver,they aren't very expensive and come in a couple of different thicknesses

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-K-SERIES-ALL-ENGINE-SIZES-CYLINDER-HEAD-SAVERS-/171044945417?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27d312be09

Not that cheap I know but the tube of sealer is a tenner's worth

[terry paget]

Thanks again. I have just rung the man who did the previous head gasket job, and he did have the head skimmed. He was surprised at my question, seemed a bit shirty, said of course he did, that's what they were taught in college. He used the most up to date gasket too, the stainless steel multilayer one. He enquired whether I was a mechanic, no, I said, I am a printer, last did a head gasket in 1975 on a Ford Escort. He said things had changed a lot since then.
  Head still looks dead flat, you say it may have gone soft where the fire rings sit and would benefit from the applied 0.5mm shim. It says apply to the block except on K class Rovers, where it should be applied to the head. Have you experience of these shims?

[terry paget]

Thanks again, henryd. I tossed your suggestion on the small Rover Streetwise Forum.  Kayleigh, a company that changes K series head gaskets for a living, discouraged following the head saver route. It seems important that the cylinders remains 0.003" proud of the block; if less the Elastomer gasket should be used, not the newer laminated stainless steel one. If the liners sink below block level the engine should be replaced. Now I wonder how the liners sink? There is talk of a new inproved oil rail. I gather the oil rail resides in the sump, and contains the threads for the head bolts.  I wonder if the oil rail supports the cylinders, and it slowly deforms, allowing them to sink. Any thoughts?

[terry paget]

Woops! Car is front wheel drive, and the front of the car is on axle stands. I suppose the brakes should hold it, though.

If it all goes pear shaped, you will take pictures, won't you?

Not gone pear shaped yet. Without removing the crankshaft pulley nut I removed the cam belt, camshaft pulleys, and removed the head. Took advice, found liners barely above block so bought Payen 750 blue Elastomer gasket and new head bolts. Reassembled everything, put water in radiator, put in battery, turned key, and engine started . Warmed it up, took for test drive, all OK. Allowed to cool, drained water and put in ethylene glycol OAT antifreeze. Engine idling fast when hot, so something wrong there, I suspect air idle control valve, so will replace that.
Everything looks good. I worry that the man who changed HG 2 years ago and also changed cambelt must have got off the crank pulley nut, while now I cannot remove it. Strange.