Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[JamesV6CDX]

My recently transplanted 3.2 engine.....

Fitted, and running sweet. But I noticed some oil on the bellhousing at the bottom, and let it idle for half hour, you get a nice little puddle on the floor.

Also, there appears to be oil collecting on the top sump directly under the crank pulley.

I have taken the Cambelt cover off today to look at this, and I noticed that ALL of the camshaft oil seals (Gen GM, just replaced) have a misting of oil around them. Whilst I can't see the crank seal, I believe there is some oil coming from this, as there is a fair bit of oil under the sprocket, with no evidence of any having ran down the engine.

The valley has been exposed, and there are no leaks from the oil cooler unions.

The breathers are squeaky clear.

I can't help but think there might be an oil pressure problem.... I don't buy it that these seals just fail. Can the oil pressure relief valve stick, and cause too much pressure?

In fact thinking of that... when I got the engine home and had a look, the cam covers had silicone all around them - despite the gaskets being new and GM... so I wonder if someone had been battling with ongoing leaks, prior to me having the block....

I'm not sure if it's related, I also have some lifter noise from the passenger bank, which does go away when the car is fully up to temp. It sounds like just one lifter, not oil starvation or anything nasty.

I don't even know what the oil pressure is supposed to be... could anyone give me any pointers on this please?

I don't want to start ripping off the gearbox and changing the crank seals etc if the new ones are going to fail straight away!

[JamesV6CDX]

It had been suggested to me to run a strong engine flush through it to free a potentially stuck valve.

This makes me very, very nervous! I don't like the idea at all!

If there is a fault, I'd rather strip whatever I need to, get to it, and fix it!

Id' also rather do before and after oil pressure readings, to confirm I've actually fixed the fault..

[BazaJT]

The gospel according to St Haynes only gives minimum oil pressure at idle speed with engine up to temp of at least 80 as 1.5 bar[22 psi]this is for the 2.5 or 3.0L engines.Should imagine 3.2 to be the same.Oil pressure relief valve can be removed/checked/replaced once the timing belt front cover has been removed.

[Kevin Wood]

The seals aren't actually exposed to oil pressure anyway, so it doesn't follow that high oil pressure would result in leaks.

What is more likely is that blowby gases aren't able to escape through the breather system, so causing the crank case to pressurise.

Oil pressure can be measured easily by connecting a gauge to the oil pressure switch port. I believe Tunnie did this not long ago when we had concerns about his oil pressure. Maybe he still has the gauge?

[Kevin Wood]

To add to the above,

If it's had excessive sealant around the cam covers, make sure the drain passages around the cam seals haven't been blocked, as that will result in oil building up pressure behind the seal.

[JamesV6CDX]

Thanks kevin.

I am massively confused though, as the breathers are clear as a whistle

[JamesV6CDX]

Also, the noise I Described - it does sound like it's coming from the passenger side head area... but it's not that tappy... it's more like a steady knock.....

doesn't do it when first started, then after say, 30 seconds, it starts.... gradually gets worse... and sounds horrible... and then when up to temp, starts to go away again, sometimes to the point you can hardly hear it..

I've just popped some wynnes lifter treatment in there

[joff]

When the engine was last in use (in the MV6 estate) it never went more than 100mtrs at a time and was not used for a few years on the road. Did you not change the head over when you were fixing that engine snags for the other person.

[Steve B]

When the engine was last in use (in the MV6 estate) it never went more than 100mtrs at a time and was not used for a few years on the road. Did you not change the head over when you were fixing that engine snags for the other person.

[JamesV6CDX]

When the engine was last in use (in the MV6 estate) it never went more than 100mtrs at a time and was not used for a few years on the road. Did you not change the head over when you were fixing that engine snags for the other person.

Hi Joff

Yep I fitted two, low mileage heads to it, and all the associated top end gaskets and seals

She runs absolutely fine... (cheers again ) I'm just trying to work out if I've either just got worn crank seals, or if there's some other reason the oil is making a bid for freedom

[05omegav6]

When the engine was last in use (in the MV6 estate) it never went more than 100mtrs at a time and was not used for a few years on the road. Did you not change the head over when you were fixing that engine snags for the other person.

Seals are probably fooked

[JamesV6CDX]

When the engine was last in use (in the MV6 estate) it never went more than 100mtrs at a time and was not used for a few years on the road. Did you not change the head over when you were fixing that engine snags for the other person.

Seals are probably fooked

Tbh if it's just that, it's not too bad an outcome

[05omegav6]

As long as the sealed surfaces aren't corroded/damaged

[JamesV6CDX]

I'd be surprised but will obviously check closely

Are the seals expensive?

[EMD]

As long as the sealed surfaces aren't corroded/damaged

Then what happens