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[Jan Suhr]

I'm about to replace my wheelbearing in the rear and have some questions.

In the GM Service manual for this work they have some special tools to get everything apart. They use a press tool that is bolted to the brake shield bolt holes. Does anyone know what thread size those bolts have so I can get the proper bolts for this toll that I'm going to fabricate myself. They are marked #1 & 2 in the image

There is also a similar tool that is bolted to the axle shaft coupling to pull that part of the wheel flange/axle part. Any one know the bolt size for those six bolts?


I'm going to document this work for the maintenance section since there isn't any at the moment for this job.




Manual is found here:
http://workshop-manuals.com/vauxhall/omega-b/f__rear_axle_and_rear_wheel_suspension/rear_axle_rear_wheel_drive/wheel_bearing/repair_instructions/wheel_hub_and/or_rear_wheel_bearing_remove_and_install_or_replace/

Thanks

Jan

[LC0112G]

The Brake Shield to Trailing Arm bolts are M10x1.25mm. They're also spline headed and made of cheese which makes them dead easy to strip/round off.

EPC says the Drive Shaft to Axle Flange bolts are also M10 on Omega A, Senator and Omegas B - it doesn't give a thread but I've just measured my spare LC ones and they're M12x1.25, so I would expect you to need M10x1.25mm for these also.

Good luck with the job - it's one of the worst on our cars. Make sure you have a large empty swear box handy.

[Jan Suhr]

Thanks for the info,

Yes I know it is a dreadful job but a man has to do what a man has to do...

Looking at the head for those bolts it looks like I can use my old sockets for removing the cylinder head bolts from the old reliable Opel 1900 Rekord engine I had over 30 years ago


Jan

[Nick W]

The tool I made to do this job bolts on using the actual backing plate bolts.
It is made from a short length of hydraulic ram tubing, a pair of lugs welded on that attach the assembly to the trailing arm, and a plate on the other end with nut welded in the middle for the pusher bolt.

This was made on the car, in about 15minutes and looks very rough. But it effortlessly pushes the hub out of the bearing.

The bearing itself isn't too difficult to remove/replace; I use the set that is readily available for FWD bearings.

With some tooling this isn't the nightmare job that everyone makes it out to be. Working in the street I take about 2hours to do it.

[Jan Suhr]

I have that FWD bearing puller tool and I was going to use it.

I have nuts on order for the pusher bolts I'm making a plate to bolt on the to trailing arm and then to push the hub out of the bearings. I will use the push bolt from the FWD bearing tool, it is 7/8x14 UNF and it wasn't easy to find a place that sold just one such nut :-)

Now I have to find which side is bad, it sounds like it is on the right side when driving, the bad sound goes away when turning right but that might not be a clue.

I jacked it up and let the wheels spin but then it didn't sound at all, maybe because the wheels were then unloaded.

Jan

[Nick W]

Jan, sounds like you are on the right track.
The circlip is large and a sod to remove. You will need some robust pliers for that part of the job.

Part of the bearing usually comes out stuck to the hub. A three legged puller might remove it, cutting a slot in it with an angle grinder is quicker and easier, and gives you a suitable spacer to help pull the hub into the new bearing.

An impact wrench makes several parts of the job much easier!

[05omegav6]

I have that FWD bearing puller tool and I was going to use it.

I have nuts on order for the pusher bolts I'm making a plate to bolt on the to trailing arm and then to push the hub out of the bearings. I will use the push bolt from the FWD bearing tool, it is 7/8x14 UNF and it wasn't easy to find a place that sold just one such nut :-)

Now I have to find which side is bad, it sounds like it is on the right side when driving, the bad sound goes away when turning right but that might not be a clue.

I jacked it up and let the wheels spin but then it didn't sound at all, maybe because the wheels were then unloaded.

Jan

Righthand one it is reason sound stops when turning right or jacked up is because there is no load on the bearing for it to literally groan about

[joff]

I have done 4 now, all on estates, I remove the swinging arm and use a ten ton press. I so love doing this job. Not

[Nick W]

I have done 4 now, all on estates, I remove the swinging arm and use a ten ton press. I so love doing this job. Not

I have a press too, but can have the hub and bearing out in a similar amount of time to what it would take to remove the arm. Let alone using the press to actually do the job.

The bearing isn't a particularly tight fit; the first one I did had been in the freezer overnight, and a good clout to get it seated had it 3/4 of the way in.

[Jan Suhr]

I did it yesterday and it was though. Hardest part was getting the hub back in. I made my own "press" with two threaded bars and some scrap iron. Took a while and some muscle but I got it back in.

I'm preparing a write up for the maintenance guide section on this job.




Jan

[EMD]

Nice work 

[Nick W]

Jan, I use the hub nut and the cut-off bearing race to pull the hub back through the bearing. Takes no time at all with an impact wrench.


Chris currently has my tools, which includes a bearing race with the hole bored out 1mm for a nice loose fit over the hub spindle.


But it's good to see someone else who is making this job look like the viable DIY proposition that it is.

[chrisgixer]

Could take some pics of said tools tomorrow of it helps?

[Shallow Al]

I am looking forward to the guide. Not done one yet, but the day may be coming
Thanks in advance, Jan.

[Shackeng]

I have that FWD bearing puller tool and I was going to use it.

I have nuts on order for the pusher bolts I'm making a plate to bolt on the to trailing arm and then to push the hub out of the bearings. I will use the push bolt from the FWD bearing tool, it is 7/8x14 UNF and it wasn't easy to find a place that sold just one such nut :-)

Now I have to find which side is bad, it sounds like it is on the right side when driving, the bad sound goes away when turning right but that might not be a clue.

I jacked it up and let the wheels spin but then it didn't sound at all, maybe because the wheels were then unloaded.

Jan

Righthand one it is reason sound stops when turning right or jacked up is because there is no load on the bearing for it to literally groan about

Exactly my thinking when mine went, only trouble was....it was the other side! I still haven't worked that out, although I think Master explained it.