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Author Topic: Rear Shocks - Top Mount  (Read 10484 times)

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05omegav6

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Re: Rear Shocks - Top Mount
« Reply #30 on: 26 October 2015, 14:46:33 »

Sometimes the spacer rusts onto the rod, likewise the lower washer...

Does explain why it was knocking like a bastid though...
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tunnie

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Re: Rear Shocks - Top Mount
« Reply #31 on: 26 October 2015, 14:49:08 »

Fact it was not there? But old shocks had nothing on them on the lower part, I'll take some pics later in the week.

But until last few weeks, it's been sweet. Silky smooth as all Omega's should be. It never had kit since about 130k  :o (can't remember what 130k shocks were like, either old or new)

With it all tight now as much as it will go, it had better not knock/rattle on the way home.  >:(
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vauxsull

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Re: Rear Shocks - Top Mount
« Reply #32 on: 26 October 2015, 15:47:06 »

The rubber bushes that's visible from inside the boot on the top of rear shocks.. I have 3 new GM ones if any use to someone?. I needed 2 but had to buy 5 as that's the quantity they came in... Free to a good home...
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EMD

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Re: Rear Shocks - Top Mount
« Reply #33 on: 26 October 2015, 15:53:52 »

Fact it was not there? But old shocks had nothing on them on the lower part, I'll take some pics later in the week.

But until last few weeks, it's been sweet. Silky smooth as all Omega's should be. It never had kit since about 130k  :o (can't remember what 130k shocks were like, either old or new)

With it all tight now as much as it will go, it had better not knock/rattle on the way home>:(

 ;D

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tunnie

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Re: Rear Shocks - Top Mount
« Reply #34 on: 26 October 2015, 17:34:48 »

Not far off EMD, still bl00dy doing it  >:(

Knew straight away, the car park at work is brand spankers. It has a rough ish concrete floor, I could hear the vibration through the shock at sub 10mph  >:(  :-\

It's the vibration that's making the noise, rather than the compression. 70+ on the motorway or dual carriage way with car bouncing at speed, so fair bit of shock movement it's fine.

Yet 10mph in a car park is rubbling/vibrating from the rear.

I wonder if the disc hole is too large? is that moving around while on top of the shock, or the shaft/thread of the shock is moving inside sleeve  :-\

Why else would it do it at 10mph on a rough surface, but not at 70mph...  :-\
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05omegav6

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Re: Rear Shocks - Top Mount
« Reply #35 on: 26 October 2015, 17:52:55 »

Only solution then is to fit the genuine kit as summat is clearly off with that one...

It's not a complicated assembly, so if it isn't working then summat is clearly wrong... I suspect the issue is with the spacer length. Trouble is that if the assembly is loose enough to knock, then you'll be either wearing the lower bush or the turret, if not both :-\
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GastronomicKleptomaniac

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Re: Rear Shocks - Top Mount
« Reply #36 on: 26 October 2015, 18:03:50 »

You need someone small and willing to go in the boot to make sure it is the mountains rattling.
I've done it before on my vRS, convinced myself part A was at fault when it was actually the much cheaper, if harder to fit, part B.
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GastronomicKleptomaniac

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Re: Rear Shocks - Top Mount
« Reply #37 on: 26 October 2015, 18:04:27 »

(Yes, mountains. Not like Shakiras breasts...)
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tunnie

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Re: Rear Shocks - Top Mount
« Reply #38 on: 26 October 2015, 19:08:45 »

I've got a genuine kit in the garage. I'll swap kits over tommorow night.  :)
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amba

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Re: Rear Shocks - Top Mount
« Reply #39 on: 26 October 2015, 19:59:35 »

And given these shocks are being fitted onto a Saloon,is the mounting kit you are now going to fit originally listed for an Estate or Saloon,as I assume it direct from GM...just for my own peace of mind  :y
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tunnie

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Re: Rear Shocks - Top Mount
« Reply #40 on: 26 October 2015, 20:03:14 »

Ordered kit for Saloon. Not had an Estate for few years  :y
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amba

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Re: Rear Shocks - Top Mount
« Reply #41 on: 26 October 2015, 20:29:41 »

Thought school of thoughts was that the Estate fixing kit needed to be fitted with anything other than GM shocks .....or am I reading all these previuos post incorrectly  ::)
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05omegav6

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Re: Rear Shocks - Top Mount
« Reply #42 on: 26 October 2015, 20:32:48 »

And given these shocks are being fitted onto a Saloon,is the mounting kit you are now going to fit originally listed for an Estate or Saloon,as I assume it direct from GM...just for my own peace of mind  :y
At risk of repeating myself, again... ::)

Compare the new shocks side by side with the old ones... paying particular attention to the overall length of the rod and also it's threaded length. If these two measurements are within a mm of the original ones, then fit the relevant kit for your body type... however if the threaded portion is notably shorter, ie 5mm+ different then fit the estate kit regardless of body type.

Bilstein B4s require the estate kit regardless of body type due to a shorter threaded portion... 

See pic further up the thread for clarification of the dfifferences between the two kits... notably the comparable length of the spacer bush and the height of the lower bush :y

Also noteworthy, if the GM nut does NOT fit the shock rod, then use the one supplied with the shocks.
« Last Edit: 26 October 2015, 20:43:52 by Harris K Telemacher »
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05omegav6

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Re: Rear Shocks - Top Mount
« Reply #43 on: 26 October 2015, 20:33:20 »

Thought school of thoughts was that the Estate fixing kit needed to be fitted with anything other than GM shocks .....or am I reading all these previuos post incorrectly  ::)
::) See above ;)
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05omegav6

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Re: Rear Shocks - Top Mount
« Reply #44 on: 26 October 2015, 20:41:34 »

The kit from MaxTrac does have different looking discs. Note that there is no "recess' or dip in the middle, you can see an old GM one in the background...


Tunnie... from the above pic... note the rusty white collar on the genuine bush... this must be inserted completely into/through the hole in the turret... be sure not to pinch it up against the underside of the metal work.

Secondly... the genuine washer sitting on the upper rubber... use that orientation for underneath the turret and inverted for above it.

Thirdly... if the genuine nut won't fit the thread on the shock rod, use the one supplied with it, but tighten it down until you can tighten no more.

Apologies if this reads a bit patronising, but trying to be as clear as a very clear thing ::)
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